I have seen that with the imported axles as well. I have not used one in MANY years, the last one ripped the threads off the axle when I torqued the nut to 100 ft/lb. That was when axles were just hitting the market from off shore and most suppliers were selling them as " high quality, stock replacements" the guy I built the arms for wanted the $75 axles over the $180 USA made ones= which ended up in the arm anyway but sucked down a new set of bearings because of the imported junk.

Sometimes you may hear a slight click if you have play in the splines as you had, it's not there all the time just when you load the wheel, like going from rev to forward.

 

Yep.

I put some Loctite goop on it, #660 Press fit retaining compound on the splines and reinstalled them. Threads on mine looked good. I 100FTLBs held on the nut fine. I let it dry for a week before I drove it. All quiet now, no click or any noise. Might be tough to get it apart if I ever have to, but its quiet now.

 

Hi
We have a 68 with the same issue. Your video is identical to what I see.
What did you end up doing (if anything) to resolve the issue?

Thanks,

Jeff

 

My vibration is finally gone, but I can't tell you exactly what fixed it. I actually just got the car back on the road a few weeks ago. In my case I changed out just about the entire rear suspension. I rebuilt the diff (reused the original ring and pinion) and went with new side yokes, put new wheel bearings/trailing arm assemblies in, replaced my Fiberglass rear spring with coil-overs from Ridetech, and replaced the rear rotors since they were at the minimum thickness. One or a combination of those changes has finally fixed the vibration issue. If I had to guess I would probably lean toward my original trailing arm bushings which were definitely worn. I don't think the differential play was a factor after all.

 

Hello,
I've reI'your answer on a post, and you seem knowledgeable on vent rear suspension.

. I just had my rear done, 3.08 to 3.73. (Th350 tranny)
I pulled it, and reinstalled it. The rear was done in a shop.
I used 8oz Delco additive, and the rest 80/90 gear oil from unique corvettes.. first drive,, as i slowly go down the street,, i have a mild vibration. The second i give it a little gas maybe 20-25 mph i get a severe vibration. I ran idle in it air, everything vibrated. I pulled the half shafts, vibration gone. I noticed shiney scrapes on the yoke end half shafts, where the u joints are pressed in.
any thoughts.
Thanks
George

 

Vibrations are tough to troubleshoot. Is it just a vibration or are there any grinding noises too? Did you have the vibration before the shop rebuilt your diff? Any other changes like new u-joints, trailing arm work, etc.?

And when you say you ran it in the air, do you mean you let the rear suspension hang down while on jack stands and let it run? If so I believe letting the rear suspension droop like that could cause the suspension to bind unless you jack up the trailing arms somehow.

Hopefully some of the real experts on here will chime in.

 

I recently purchased a 79 and on the drive home I was hearing a whine from the rear of the car. I puttered around with a few short jaunts in our great October weather but stayed very close to home. I built two 10ft-9" long ramps 16" high to put her up on for the winter. I have disassembled from the car all rear suspension components along with the differential. Prior to pulling the spindles out of the T/As for new bearings (which I thought may be the culprit) I found one spindle catching up as I turned it confirming I had a bad bearing. The differential case had 2 stripped mounting holes for the spring. I have since purchased a used replacement in excellent condition from another forum member and will also be installing a new spring as well. T/As being sandblasted, painted and new bushings and stainless shims will be installed along with new cushion retainers in the rear of the T/As. A spindle bearing kit (Timken bearings) seals, shims etc. along with the tools need to disassemble and reassemble my spindles. New adjustable camber rods will be going on as well. I had a mechanic take a quick look at the differential and he felt that it would be OK to put it back in the car as is.I'm just wondering if there is anything in particular I should be looking at before putting the cover back on. On measuring the spindle clearance to center with a feeler gauge I found the right (crown side) to have .034" gap and the left at .024". Are these clearances OK to run or should I be looking further into a rebuild before installing. Addressing the rear suspension including differential crossmember bushings, spindle bearings and differential cover are my plan for the Canadian weather. Just looking for your thoughts on the differential. Thanks, John

 

How much will excess axle play effect the alignment and handling ? I'm going to have the differential rebuilt this winter and get it aligned next spring.

 

You have about double the amount of play that I do from my freshly rebuilt diff, no miles on it yet. It had more play before it was rebuilt, closer to what you have. I had no vibrations, and a little whine. Drove it just fine for almost 7,000 miles this year until an axle shaft u joint grenaded. This only effects the left side. From what I’ve heard there isnt really a set amount of play from the factory. All cars are different.

 

maybe stupid but that u joint in your first video top bolt looks like some slop in it?