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I have a 1975 Corvette, I replaced the left front caliper, it was remanufacture and got it at the parts store. put in on with no problem brakes working just fine. Driving a little and the next day I check to make sure in was not leaking. But it was. it was leaking in the front where the to halves come together and where the O Rings are. Taking a closer look, the two halve look like they don't match. When they rebuild them don't they keep original matching set together. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
haybail
No, caliper halves are not kept together during the rebuilding process. I've seen used calipers where one halve was an original Delco, and the other halve was an aftermarket replacement.
If you have your original calipers, the companies that deal in Corvette calipers can rebuild your calipers, but they charge an additional "tracking" fee, to make sure that the halves do stay together, and that you do get your calipers back.
No, caliper halves are not kept together during the rebuilding process. I've seen used calipers where one halve was an original Delco, and the other halve was an aftermarket replacement.
If you have your original calipers, the companies that deal in Corvette calipers can rebuild your calipers, but they charge an additional "tracking" fee, to make sure that the halves do stay together, and that you do get your calipers back.
haybail,
Did you buy from Autozone? They have had a real quality control problem with their rebuilt calipers lately. They used to use Cardone but recently switched, I believe to BBB Industries. I don't think their new supplier is sleeving the calipers. Lots of leakers.
Greg
No better from corvette vendors. (unless you got calipers more than 7 years ago) Here is my pile of leaking calipers. even lonestar. lip seal or O-ring.
Now to be fare, these may have been fine for street only use, but the seals used in these products do not take the heat. I tested during 20-25 minute track sessions most calipers failed within the first year. (front), rears lasted 2-3 years.
I now have wilwoods on year 3 without any issues to date. Street or track days. Bad thing is they are costly.
Last edited by cagotzmann; Jul 14, 2018 at 10:55 AM.
Original calipers aren' much better. I rebuilt my originals, but the two halves fit so poorly, being a machinist I resurfaced the mating areas to be parallel with each other and to prevent the pads from wearing out "on an angle".
No better from corvette vendors. (unless you got calipers more than 7 years ago) Here is my pile of leaking calipers. even lonestar. lip seal or O-ring.
Now to be fare, these may have been fine for street only use, but the seals used in these products do not take the heat. I tested during 20-25 minute track sessions most calipers failed within the first year. (front), rears lasted 2-3 years.
I now have wilwoods on year 3 without any issues to date. Street or track days. Bad thing is they are costly.
I was happy with the Lonestars (via Zip) on my street/DD only 79. For my track(able) when complete 80, I was hoping to do the same. Aren't Wilwoods, the rears in particular, a bit of a pain to bleed? If stock calipers won't hold up to track use, I won't waste my time.
Has anyone attempted to spec their own O-rings? McMaster sells "high-temp o-rings" good to 450 deg F. Kalrez O-rings will go above 600 deg F, for the bargain price of $30- each (and up).
Last edited by Bikespace; Jul 14, 2018 at 11:00 PM.
I was happy with the Lonestars (via Zip) on my street/DD only 79. For my track(able) when complete 80, I was hoping to do the same. Aren't Wilwoods, the rears in particular, a bit of a pain to bleed? If stock calipers won't hold up to track use, I won't waste my time.
Has anyone attempted to spec their own O-rings? McMaster sells "high-temp o-rings" good to 450 deg F. Kalrez O-rings will go above 600 deg F, for the bargain price of $30- each (and up).
See my lonestar O-ring in the pile. I am sure they didn't use any of those O-rings. I guess you could try a rebuild. As for the wilwood rear bleeding they are a pain only the first time. I bleed ~ every 2 weeks between track days and have not had any problems after the first bleed. I also press the pistons in the caliper when bleeding. This also allows me to make sure no piston is stuck and moves freely.