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So far the the rear cross member with differential installed and torqued to AIM values with new cushions.
My planned sequence is TA's, Smart Struts, half shafts, shocks, rear spring.
My questions are:
Would a different install sequence be easier/better?
When I removed the TA's I made note of the shims on each side of the TA. Should I install each TA the way it was removed or center the TA?
Do the smart struts matter ?
The shocks I removed where DELCO. I don't race/track the car. What would you recommend for shocks. I have been considering MONROE.
So far the the rear cross member with differential installed and torqued to AIM values with new cushions.
My planned sequence is TA's, Smart Struts, half shafts, shocks, rear spring.
My questions are:
Would a different install sequence be easier/better?
When I removed the TA's I made note of the shims on each side of the TA. Should I install each TA the way it was removed or center the TA?
Do the smart struts matter ?
The shocks I removed where DELCO. I don't race/track the car. What would you recommend for shocks. I have been considering MONROE.
Any tips?
Thanks, Jim
I believe when I did mine I put the half shafts in prior to the struts. I did not want anything in the way while I was muscling those bad boy shafts in. As far as shocks go I tried new Delcos, then Monroes, then KYBs, and settled on Bilstein HDs. I am running a 315 monospring and this car is a stock 350 automatic. I am curious as to what your shims stacked up like on your car before removing the old TAs, do you have that measurement? Thanks
Shock preference? If you are not concerned about going 80 mph around a 60 mph curve in the road and you prefer a much smoother ride on weekend roadtrips, get Monroe Sensa-trac shocks. I removed the worn shocks and measure from the top mounting hole on the frame down to the lower mounting point. I then went to the Monroe website for detailed shock dimensions to find the shocks that would fit the "at rest" measurement and still have plenty of Up/Down travel.
NOTE: The front pair of shocks will be a different length and have different mounting ends than the rear shocks will have. The car needs to be parked on a fairly level concrete or asphalt driveway or parking area with all suspension/drivetrain parts installed and approx. half tank of gas when the measurements are taken.
Last edited by doorgunner; Jul 15, 2018 at 10:30 PM.
When I replaced my trailing arms after having them rebuilt (Van Steel) I put the shims back in exactly as they were.
Worked well enough to get me to the alignment shop to have everything aligned properly. I brought a new set of stainless steel shims with me for them to use. Unless you have the alignment done at a Corvette specialty shop the shop probably will not not have the necessary shims on hand.
I carefully measured the original rusted shim packs and replaced them with stainless. Took the left over stainless shims with me to the alignment shop so he could fine tune the final alignment.
I run the adjustable Koni shocks and have been happy with them.
Use antiseize on everything when you put the rear suspension back together, you'll appreciate it if you ever have to get back in there.
Last edited by Mako72; Jul 16, 2018 at 12:11 PM.
Reason: txt
I believe when I did mine I put the half shafts in prior to the struts.
Leave the shims out until you you have the half shafts in. You'll want some have some lateral movement of the TAs to get the half shafts in. Then I would do shocks, strut rods, shims and spring. For shocks, I'm a fan of the Bilstein sports, but for a cruiser, it probably doesn't matter too much. Put the shims back in the way they came out, but you will still need an alignment. As mentioned, I would put in stainless steel shims, so you just need to measure the stacks and replace with an equal thickness stack.
I have the SS shims to use. When ready for alignment, I hope I can find a good shop in the north Atlanta area. Hendricks is just down the road, maybe they can do it.
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