nix1981

Hi,
I'm undergoing a chassis rebuild for my 69 and though I took many, many photos of the old chassis and the disassemblyI find that I do have some questions, so, I thought rather than start a new thread every time I had an issue or question, I'd start just one and try and organize my questions as they come up. I have the AIM, Chassis Manual, etc. The chassis as it sits today is for the most part is all back together with the exception of dropping the motor, fuel/brake lines, and exhaust.




1. My first concern is the new fuel tank. Installing the tank straps believe it or not has been by far the worst. They were seemingly too small, but with the help of my wife and kids, we managed to get them hooked and bolted down. Now, in doing so, I had to more or less bend the hook that attaches to the slot in the tank support crossmember. The simple "V" shape does NOT bend as it should because it's got an additional strap plate spot welded for added reinforcement. It's a bit longer up the strap and causes the bend to take up much needed slack to fit. The originals have more of a "U" shape which fits the crossmember as it should. I also had to flatten the seams more than what it came with so that I could again create more slack to get the strap to fit. Now that the tank is centered and secured with the correct torque I'm concerned that the seams that have been further flattened my have compromised the tank. So, I'm asking for some opinions on whether I should be concerned or if I'm over thinking it?? The original tank is bent on the seam (much like the new one came) but not like what I had to do to get the straps to fit.




2. The rear wheel bearings. Again, everything is together but I see a bit of a split and wonder if it's normal? Everything is tight and my thought is that it has a little "in and out" movement - especially when there is no weight and the TA's are fully extended, but I'm not sure. Thoughts?




3. All new steering and suspension etc. It will go in for alignment but I wanted to get it as close as I can to start. Any suggestions on front upper control arm shims? Simply replacing what was there was way off... just trying to get it close.



Thanks!

SB64

Hi Nix, the work on the frame so far looks very nice. You will come to find if no already that a lot of the after market pieces do not just fall back in place like the original ones. Some vendors are better then others. . Were the straps the same length? Was the original tank fin bent in which I believe most are to some degree. Should be okay!
I would not worry about shims at the point you are at. Once the body is on you can see whats going on with the front. With weight on the front end you can loosen the upper arms and apply shims and use a 24" level against the tire to get them close. You may not be looking for level but close depending on specs. Do this step later.
Not sure what I am looking at for the other part of the drive line, maybe back up a little for another shot.
All looks good but the goal for your suspension is not to torque everything until you have the full weight of the car. You want things as close to curb weight as possible. Seats, Glass etc. Lived in Roanoke for 35 yrs and just moved to warmer area. Not sure how from from there you are.
Good Luck


RVZIO

Don 68

There are also anti squeak strips that go between the straps and the tank. I bought mine from a vendor and found out they were make from tar paper. Still had the guide stripe on it for positioning shingles.
Don

nix1981

RVZIO Thanks for the reply! The straps were the same length and in general match up the OE straps but as I see it the biggest difference is in the added bit of strap material at the end (hook area)...it goes up the strap a bit further which keeps it from bending in the same spot as the OE. I'll try some different straps to see how they look in comparison. So you think the tank is fine? The OE tank seems to have a bit of a crimp but not nearly what I had to do to the new tank to get slack on the straps, and you can definitely see that the fin and tank is a bit deflected. I just want to make sure I didn't screw up the seams by flattening them out resulting in the seams breaking and potentially causing a leaking tank.



I'm also attaching a photo of the rear TA bearing from further away. Hopefully that helps. Looking at the assembly dwgs it looks as if there is supposed to be a bit of a gap, but just not sure. Everything is tight and there is absolutely no wiggle or slop.



All the front suspension(control arm bushings and sway bar) is loose. Should I loosen the rear suspension too? The leaf pack is not torqued down...it's only at about 20 lbs just to make sure its' not going anywhere.

SB64

Yes all of the rearend bolts should be hand tight to allow for the center of the spring and the ears of the housing to settle once the weight of the body is on. You don't want to tighten any thing to much in the front suspension. This will assure you that nothing will bust from the added weight of the body. TR are okay also.

nix1981

What are your thoughts on the fuel tank seam bends?

SB64

Did you try the original straps just to see if they fit better, it would also let you know if it had the same fit then the tank would be the issue. The edges look fairly close on the tanks. I would go with it , but I know what you mean about your concern. Sometimes the newer parts really can be bothersome.

bazza77

I had to bend over the join on my new 69 year tank as well , looks just like yours, been in my car for years with no problem.

bazza77

The picture of the inside view of the rear axle and dust shields. Hard to see but did you put on the bigger dust shield over the inside bearing seal ? Where its supposed to be looks like its painted a light grey but i cant tell if its the shield or just the end of the housing.???

bazza77

corvette.com/63-82-rear-spindle-bearing-dust-shield.html

this is the part I'm talking about.

nix1981

Update - So, I called the company that rebuilt the trailing arms and they said they in fact did not put those in. They said they never put those in because they're a water trap. He did say that he's more than happy to have them brought back in and he can put them in or he can send the shields out, but that that more often than not is the cause for many issues due to the water that gets trapped. I guess I was worried that there was some separation going on, but if that's not the case than I may just leave well enough alone...is that foolish on my end?

Im not really sure. These were rebuilt by a company in WI, Corvette Guys (I think is the name) it looks like that part is there but painted, but I really don't know.

bazza77

I don' know , I have rebuilt quite a few arms ( as per GTR1999 method) I have always put them on , reused or new ones , I always thought it a good idea to cover the shaft grease seal .

Interesting to hear from guys who do this for a living to hear their thoughts about leaving them off.

nix1981

I honestly would rather see them in there - they're there for a reason. We'll see if anyone else can weigh in, but I may have them send them out so I have them. Is it a pain to put those in...something that I could do myself without taking the whole arm off?

bazza77

I found them to be tricky to get them to stay on square , they are a kind of press on fit .
I personally wouldn' like to install them lying under a car, I always add some rtv to "glue" them on as well . Never had one come off , but if it did the rattle noise would be annoying.