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protecto plate vs. diff. code

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Old Oct 27, 2018 | 12:08 PM
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Default protecto plate vs. diff. code

Facts:
  1. I have a 69 L71 with a build date of 9/18.
  2. The protecto-plate has a rear axle date of 1122
    1. The diff. has a date of: 12 12 69
  3. The Type and source codes on the diff match the protecto plate, CAZ and W, correct for this car (late 69)
  4. The serial number on the car matches the protecto-plate
  5. The build date on the protecto-plate, december, matches the build date on the car
Questions:
  1. Does the date on the protecto-plate, which is un-defined in the 69 assembly manual, indicate something different than that stamped on the diff?
  2. Could the diff have been replaced during production?
  3. Is it more likely the diff was changed later?

Last edited by Plasticexperience; Jan 8, 2020 at 10:03 PM.
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Old Oct 27, 2018 | 12:38 PM
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Have you determined by counting the drive shaft rotation that the actual gear ratio is 3.55 ?
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Old Oct 27, 2018 | 01:40 PM
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so you have a car built Dec 18 1968 and your asking if a rear assembled in Dec 12 1969 could be original
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Old Oct 27, 2018 | 03:08 PM
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It is a 3:55 rear- my questions is more about the protecto-plate versus the markings?
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Old Oct 27, 2018 | 03:09 PM
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It's a late model 69 - my question is the difference in the protecto plate date?
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Old Oct 27, 2018 | 03:10 PM
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more specifically the car was built 12/18/69 it was close to one of the last cars built in that year. Not sure why you think it is a 68?
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Old Oct 27, 2018 | 04:13 PM
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The Protectoplate should match the numbers on all the parts.

The Diff info should match exactly as well as the trans info. If not, then you have three possibilities. None of which are good.

1. The rear was swapped out either early on or by a previous owner with a date/ratio correct part.
2. The Protectoplate is a repro (fake, and common problem)
3. There was a mistake in the typed info on the plate. (very uncommon)

If you can, post a pic of the protectoplate.
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Old Oct 27, 2018 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Debbie Messina
more specifically the car was built 12/18/69 it was close to one of the last cars built in that year. Not sure why you think it is a 68?
Dec 68 cars are 69's. Only 69 has cars built untl the end of 69. I am sure NW man forgot about the strike that screwed up the 69 model year.

Last edited by derekderek; Oct 27, 2018 at 05:02 PM.
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Old Oct 27, 2018 | 05:23 PM
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I say #3, the rear was changed as the stamp should match the POP.
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Old Oct 27, 2018 | 06:03 PM
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Everyone, I know this was a very messy time , I am really not that knowledgeable but that would make the Diff 7 weeks older than the car. I know they can sit around but doesn't that 7 week gap seem weird? Were the POPs that accurate? Thanks Ike

Last edited by general ike; Oct 27, 2018 at 06:03 PM.
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Old Oct 27, 2018 | 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by general ike
Everyone, I know this was a very messy time , I am really not that knowledgeable but that would make the Diff 7 weeks older than the car. I know they can sit around but doesn't that 7 week gap seem weird? Were the POPs that accurate? Thanks Ike
I have yet to see a mistake on any real POP. But I do suggest it is at least possible as these were done by hand.

As for the diff dates, I have a mid Feb 69 with a diff date of mid Dec 68 backed up by a pop and a early Jan 69 with a diff date of late Dec68 also backed up by the pop. Both are 390hp cars. The dates can be all over the place with the rears.

Any anomaly is a problem and will get questioned, even if its a legit issue. That's just how it is these days.

I really would like to see the POP in question. Late pops made after VIN 736250 have different characteristics than those made before it. Fake pops made for vins past this point miss this detail.
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Old Oct 27, 2018 | 06:58 PM
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I will post a picture of the POP
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Old Oct 27, 2018 | 09:16 PM
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The plate is attached to the warranty pamphlet - the transmission and serial number match. I think it's legit - which proves its a L71 but the diff is not original - but at least time correct.

Last edited by Plasticexperience; Jan 8, 2020 at 10:03 PM.
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Old Oct 27, 2018 | 11:06 PM
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I love this stuff!!!! Ed thanks for the clarification. I did not think major components had that kind of time lag!!



Last edited by general ike; Oct 27, 2018 at 11:07 PM.
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Old Oct 27, 2018 | 11:22 PM
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Oh man....
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but the pop is a repro, not original.
I have pictures of the actual paper manual when it was on ebay last year. I will post the pics in my next post when I retrieve them. I have pics of both sides. I recognized the number in ink over the dealer stamp area.

It looks really good and aged but good reproes are out there.

Hopefully your car is a real deal L71.

I wish people would come here first before they buy.....
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Old Oct 27, 2018 | 11:32 PM
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Old Oct 27, 2018 | 11:34 PM
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Here is a pic of the front

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To protecto plate vs. diff. code

Old Oct 27, 2018 | 11:36 PM
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Another pic of the back before the plate was attached and the new dealer stamp imprinted.

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Old Oct 28, 2018 | 08:50 AM
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Ed, I'm guessing you don't like the ones on the metal plate?
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Old Oct 28, 2018 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by toylman
Ed, I'm guessing you don't like the ones on the metal plate?
Yeah, the metal plate is no good...

However, if you look up the vin for this car I do believe this particular car is in fact a real 435hp convertible. Its red with a black interior and sold at some auction in July 2017. Even in the add it says it comes with no paperwork and the block was decked, however it was in completely unrestored condition and had lots of original parts. I think its real and probably has the original engine. But with a decked block it will be impossible to verify it beyond what you want to believe.

Still, a pretty nice car to restore.
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