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I removed the trailing arms today. The right side was no problem whatsoever, came out super easy. The left side bolt was seized to the bushing and had to be cut with a reciprocating saw, no fun. Both arms are packed and will head to shipping company Monday morning, ready to get this project done.
Rear suspension is completely disassembled now. Currently have everything from the driveshaft rearward removed. I will be installing solid Spicer U joints (1330s and 1350s) on the driveshaft and half shafts along with new flanges- it appears that Bubba kissed the right flange with a chisel, presumably to break a bolt loose, there was an incorrect bolt in that hole and partial french lock, seems he's been all over the right rear.
There seems to be quite a few forum members currently working on the rear suspension and driveline.
Photo without trailing arms, more to follow...
Last edited by 74_stingray; 02-08-2019 at 11:24 AM.
Right Half Shaft Flange
Torched out? Who knows, new flange going on both side regardless.
Eddy
To replace these flanges.....you either need to use your inner bearing flange from your trailing arms that bolt to this to give it strength when removing it and replacing it...OR...you need to get a thick plate of steel and drill holes in it so the four bolts can be used to bolt the flange to that steel plate.
IF you try to remove and install them...they will bend and possibly break.
To replace these flanges.....you either need to use your inner bearing flange from your trailing arms that bolt to this to give it strength when removing it and replacing it...OR...you need to get a thick plate of steel and drill holes in it so the four bolts can be used to bolt the flange to that steel plate.
IF you try to remove and install them...they will bend and possibly break.
DUB
Dub, I have ordered the flange plate along with the two new flanges. The Spicer u joints are here awaiting the arrival.
Thanks,
Eddy
Having gotten the rear suspension completely disassembled Thursday night I was able to start cleaning, painting and do some reassembly tonight. I wire wheeled, sanded and painted the cross member. Subsequently the new heavy duty differential cover was installed and filled with two bottles of limited slip additive and Lucas 85-140 gear oil. I will have to spend a good portion of the day Saturday at my daughters basketball tournament, maybe I can get some work done in the evening.
The differential cover and cross member have been painted, cross member reinstalled. I purchase the Dragvette cross member stabilizing disc kit, and fabricated cross member support tabs. Stainless reinforcing tabs
Last edited by 74_stingray; 02-10-2019 at 07:30 AM.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Wow you raced past me pretty fast. I think we started about the same time. I got bogged down painting my engine compartment, detailing all the small parts, buying and cleaning a used 3.70 differential and have just got one side of my spindles and steering box painted. I just took the second spindle apart and have it in the tank now. Thanks for the torque specs on the spindle assemblies. I was just going to start searching for those. You saved me a couple of hours of looking.
And thanks for the tips on the front to rear brake line. While cleaning my engine compartment I decide to replace all the lines with stainless and the hoses with braided stainless. Your tips will again save me some trouble. I was going to go from the rear forward like you did but I left the junction block installed. I will give it a few minutes to try and install it that way but may have to pull the block as you did.
I'm installing a used VBP boxed A arm assembly and I'm installing it with the shims I took out. I noticed you didnt have any shims installed. Do the Van Steel arms compensate for them and there for don't need them or are you just waiting to install them when you do your alignment?.
Wow you raced past me pretty fast. I think we started about the same time. I got bogged down painting my engine compartment, detailing all the small parts, buying and cleaning a used 3.70 differential and have just got one side of my spindles and steering box painted. I just took the second spindle apart and have it in the tank now. Thanks for the torque specs on the spindle assemblies. I was just going to start searching for those. You saved me a couple of hours of looking.
And thanks for the tips on the front to rear brake line. While cleaning my engine compartment I decide to replace all the lines with stainless and the hoses with braided stainless. Your tips will again save me some trouble. I was going to go from the rear forward like you did but I left the junction block installed. I will give it a few minutes to try and install it that way but may have to pull the block as you did.
I'm installing a used VBP boxed A arm assembly and I'm installing it with the shims I took out. I noticed you didnt have any shims installed. Do the Van Steel arms compensate for them and there for don't need them or are you just waiting to install them when you do your alignment?.
I don’t know brother that’s a big project you have going on! I was fortunate to have two weeks off at Christmas and did get a good bit of detail work done. As for the torque specs, I too am thankful for others who have paved the way and shared a great deal of information here on the forum.
On the front to rear brake line, if you are referencing the brass junction block, I installed it on the line first and fished it behind the battery box on the line. Once I was finally able to get the bock in its mounting hole I screwed the rubber line in the block so I could hold it while I placed the clip into the block. I hope that helps.
I did not install any shims onto the upper control arms yet, there were not many before and I will let the alignment shop do it.
Thanks for checking in and good luck with the rest of your project. Looking forward to Corvette weather!
Eddy
02-02-2019, 08:03 PM
