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I have a new pilot bushing installed the same as the old one. A new clutch and pressure plate installed with the centering shaft. Trans slipped in but is 1/4" away from bellhousing. Trans bolts are all in finger tight. The centering shaft was a little loose when installing the disc. It seems like the flange on the front of the transmission where the throwout bearing rides on isn't going in. Is it safe to connect the clutch linkage and press the clutch in to center the clutch disc if it is off? I could tighten the trans bolts to pull it in, then put the trans in gear with the clutch in to see if anything is binding. Any ideas?
Thanks Dave
First: DO NOT use the tranny bolts to pull the tranny in.... not worth breaking off a tranny ear. It should go in smoothly once you get it lined up.
YES - it is ok to hook up the clutch and exercise the clutch while pushing the tranny in.
FYI - I've done my tranny several times (probably 20)... last year I actually got it in so easy that I could not believe it and I thought that I had left something out....so I pulled it back out. Yep, the clutch, and pilot bushing were installed...hmmm.... ok let's try again. Went right back in again! What the heck? Had never been that easy.
---what was different? Well, for one thing I really raised my tranny up high before pushing it into the bellhousing, I typically have the clutch hooked up to wiggle it in and out, but I hadn't gotten to that step yet... and it slid right in--- the big difference is that I raised quite high up instead of trying to push it in at an angle. This was my heavy Richmond 6 speed too.... hope some of that helps.
Originally Posted by 68vetteman
I have a new pilot bushing installed the same as the old one. A new clutch and pressure plate installed with the centering shaft. Trans slipped in but is 1/4" away from bellhousing. Trans bolts are all in finger tight. The centering shaft was a little loose when installing the disc. It seems like the flange on the front of the transmission where the throwout bearing rides on isn't going in. Is it safe to connect the clutch linkage and press the clutch in to center the clutch disc if it is off? I could tighten the trans bolts to pull it in, then put the trans in gear with the clutch in to see if anything is binding. Any ideas?
Thanks Dave
Last edited by carriljc; Jan 28, 2019 at 01:20 AM.
with the above. I took a couple of long bolts, same thread size as the bell housing bolts and cut the heads off them. I use 2 of them as a guide to bring the trans in. This way you have something to rest on besides the input shaft and it gives you a guide. I have also done it by hooking up the clutch linkage and have a friend push it in while you are pushing the trans in.
Yup, what Gordonm said. Here is where you need a third hand, errr, third leg. Just as the tranny is almost home, you need someone to depress the clutch pedal.
Bingo. 99% of them will pop right in.
After having all the tranny bolts just snug, grab the tailshaft (clutch depressed) and rotate, checking for binding or unusual noises. Then torque the bolts.
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I was having the exact same issue with the engine in the car. It just wouldnt go in. So I pulled the engine and tried installing it outside of the car with changing a thing. I wwent right in. So I agree with Carrilljc...try lifting up the rear more to get it aligned better.
with the above. I took a couple of long bolts, same thread size as the bell housing bolts and cut the heads off them. I use 2 of them as a guide to bring the trans in. This way you have something to rest on besides the input shaft and it gives you a guide. I have also done it by hooking up the clutch linkage and have a friend push it in while you are pushing the trans in.
ditto here on the guide bolts plus I got my better half to press the clutch in and out. Wiggle it and popped right in. Make sure you do not mushroom the bronze pilot bearing id during install or the input shaft will never go in (ask me how I know, LOL's). Good to mike both input shaft and pilot bearing id after you install the pilot bearing to be sure it will fit.
Thanks for the info. The trans is so close I'm sure the input shaft is in the pilot bushing. I didn't like the slop in the alignment tool for lining the clutch disc up. I thought it would be safe to disengage the clutch but I wasn't sure.
Thanks, Dave
Also make sure your pilot bushing is bottomed out -pounded all the way in. If you used a tool to install it and it isn't quite in all the way, you won't be able to get the trans all the way home.
I put the clutch pedal in and tightened the bolts evenly and trans went right in. Next I put trans in first gear, put the driveshaft yoke in and reached through where the shifter goes. Clutch pedal in and the yoke turns free without any drag.
Dave
63, 327, Muncie---I pulled the tranny and had a shop do a rebuild. Left the old clutch in. Now doing the reassembly and I have a problem. Bell housing was not removed as I did not redo the clutch. Cant seem to work the clutch fork into place between the bell and pressure plate. It came out with a little jiggling and fumbling but how the heck does it go back in??? I have the TO bearing on the tranny shaft and the tranny is loose from the bell and backed out. Any suggestions??? Just seems like there ought to be a way to get the fork in place, get the TO onto it and slide the tranny home. Ideas?
with the above. I took a couple of long bolts, same thread size as the bell housing bolts and cut the heads off them. I use 2 of them as a guide to bring the trans in. This way you have something to rest on besides the input shaft and it gives you a guide. I have also done it by hooking up the clutch linkage and have a friend push it in while you are pushing the trans in.
This works with the bolts. just make sure the trans is level with the bellhousing and you've lined the clutch up with the tool. It should slide right in.
I use a clutch line up tool. mine is a old input shaft, the I lock the tranny up by putting it in a forward gear and hand moving into reverse. Then you can slightly rotate the trans to stab the clutch spline. Then remove from forward gear and hand remove from reverse.
NEVER had one not slip in, but to eash his one. Some good advice from other posts.