skits54

Does anyone have instructions or pictures of jacking up a c3?

I see all sorts of conflicting information here and I'm not trying to damage the car, but I plan on replacing all of the steering components, and putting on some side pipes at the same time.

I'm for information on where to place the stands so I can do all the front end work, and anything else I want to do while I'm down there.

Thanks in advance.

TimAT

This is from the 69 manual. I suspect the other years are about the same.

derekderek

Jack points are OK for lifting the car up briefly. These frames are a little bit flexible. You want to put the stands where the weight hits the suspension . You don't want the car to be sitting on Jack stands at the 4 points that are in board from where the wheels are. The front and the rear will droop.

Peterbuilt

Go Here for lots of information about your Corvette:
https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/gm-...tion-kits.html

In the future, if you have a question please state the year, engine, transmission.

skits54

I will be removing the A-arms, so I can't put the stands there. I would think for something so trivial, this wouldn't be so difficult.. lol.. but I can't get a straight answer.

jpatrick62

skits54,

I have a 69 convert, so I am very careful when jacking the car up. What I do is:

1. Jack up the car from the front under the cross member.
2. Once I get enough height, place jack stands under the front suspension - if you are going to work on the suspension, do #2A
2A. Place jack stands under the forward part of the frame under the doors.
3. Place a jack stand (or leave the jack) under the cross member for support.

I don't get any frame flex this way, and it seems to be a safer way as well.

derekderek

I think the worst culprit is putting the stands at the kick-ups at the back of the doors. I think putting most of rear weight on the diff where the spring mounts is best bet.

Rescue Rogers

there are numerous threads here on the subject. You will want2 floor jacks 8 stands or 4 depending on what you do to the rear end.

1. jack it up simultaneously on both sides and put the first stands under the front a arms. They will support the front end and not slip while you get the rear in the air
2. once the front is up, then put the jack under the rear diffrential and get the back up
3. theres 2 sways to support the rear since your not working on the rear end
   1. put the rear stands in front of the rear tires on the frame where it start to cross under the car, one on each side
   2. put another set behind the wheels on the the frame besides the gas tank or back near the bumper to support the hanging rear end
   3. OR build a square block that will fit under the rear tire and cradle it and lower it onto the block. IT will prevent the rear from sagging and act as a brake to prevent the car from swaying or shifting
4. now jack the front again and put one set of stands just behind the font bumper supports in front of the tire and just behind the front tire on the frame as it gets under the door. It should give you the space you need for the side exhaust and plenty of room to remove the front suspension

Bikespace

As stated, the best and safest ways involve throwing some money at the problem. I use two large floor jacks. If I need both ends off the floor at once, I put the front on RaceRamps, jack the rear by the spring (I have a spreader bar that spans the exhaust), jackstands in the rear, then I only have to lift the front a bit to replace the RaceRamps with Jackstands at the inboard frame rails, just ahead of the wheels. If I use both Jack's on the lower control arms, I only have to lift an inch or so. Extra steps and tools, but I don't pivot on Jackstands.

shaark92

I know not everyone has a car lift ... but it !

Here's Victoria on our lift getting oil changed the first time since she's been with us.

good lift points on the frame. I unlocked (but didn't remove) the TTops just as a precaution, ensured the lift contacted the points simultaneously ... no problems noted.

This is at my father's place. We are 1+15 away. I'm about to finish a smaller metal building but SERIOUSLY considering the install of a lift. VERY handy.

Rescue Rogers

The cost of quick Jack's is coming down. If you have space on a credit card it's worth every cent.

https://www.costco.com/QuickJack-5%2...100460313.html

I have been using mine every day since October.
It might have as many vertical miles on it as my vette does

shaark92

If I didn't have a dually, that'd be a great option.

I'm looking at this one.

https://www.gregsmithequipment.com/A...xoCXwkQAvD_BwE

resdoggie

If you are the least bit concerned about putting your car on jack stands, then buy a 4-post lift.

I'm not concerned about frame flex i.e elastic deformation, on jack stands because that's what steel does, flex. Your frame will not bend, as in plastic deformation, unless your frame is in a deteriorated state to begin with. That said, I can't recall reading any posts where the frame actually bent from being placed on jack stands. Unless I'm removing the engine or dropping the rear end which are heavy, I only use 4 jackstands. I jack the side of the car up on one side using the mid cross member and place the fore and aft stands into position between the wheels. Repeat on other side. My doors still open/close the same, no increase in door gaps and the t-tops are easily removed/replaced. My frame is solid so I don't have those problems which others may speak of. I've left the car on stands several months at a time several times over the years. No issues. And I also have about 100,000 miles on the car. Is my way conflicting with others? I don't think so because the stands are placed where the GM engineers recommend them to be placed.

Rescue Rogers

Speaking of heavy. A heads up for everone on lift these cars.

I have all the front suspension out, engine and transmission and all the steering components and the hood removed. I have a full tank of gas and the entire rear end still in the car.

my front end is so light that the balance point seems to be at the back of the door. I tried raising the car and the nose came up but the rear didnt. I could use one hand to level the car. I stacked my front calipers inside the nose and put some moving blankets on the nose to keep it level until the top of the lift was over the base.

So be aware of how the quick Jack's can distribute the weight when raising and lowering your vehicle.

TimAT

Years ago, I was under my 69 doing the clutch- I had 4 stands under the frame at the GM recommended points. I spun around on the creeper and kicked one of the stands- it went scooting across the floor. Car was setting on 3 stands. No movement anywhere. No flex, no creaking, no nothing. I did come out from under the car pretty quick.

ignatz

Eyes wide-open, heart pounding, glad to be alive I'll bet!

It's just a "see-saw" at that point. Maybe 40 or 50 #'s keeping it from tilting.




Back when I didn't know any better, I used to leave my car up on cinder-blocks. Those thing can crumble into little flakey bits without warning.

SteveG75

The GM points work just fine. I have had mine sitting on jackstands at those points for months at a time. Don't overthink it.