First time purchasing a Corvette - 73' 454
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Instructor
Joined: Jan 2015
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From: CA; Bay Area
First time purchasing a Corvette - 73' 454
Hi,
I have owned several Pontiac cars 77-79 among other v8 cars (Mustang 5.0). I am a BIG Corvette fan (drove a couple but not my own) and have an opportunity to purchase a 73' 454 manual transmission Corvette (the way it came from the factory). It's in decent shape, most likely not the original 454 but a 454 nonetheless (with the original transmission). It drives good but needs interior restoration. The exterior color is red though it seems that it originally was blue.
They are asking $7k firm and I was the second person to respond to the sellers ad. I have looked around and $7k seems like a real good deal.
I asked why they are selling and they stated that the Corvette was part of a deal they made (it came with a classic Porche they purchased). They are Porche car enthusiast hence the reason for a quick sale of the Corvette.
Again, it seems like a good enough deal. I have always wanted a 454 in either a Chevelle or Corvette and this opportunity came about.
Please chime in with any advice. Also, how do I confirm it's a 454 engine?
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by jvmagic; Feb 18, 2019 at 01:19 AM. Reason: Add photos
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13,082
Likes: 3,399
From: SW Florida.
Pad in front of the right cyl head. Clean it up and google the numbers. Definately a big block though. There are no disappointing big blocks. Now, research birdcage rust and check that and the frame. You want to pull the kick panels inside in front of the doors. And look at the windshield frame closely. http://www.corvettec3.ca/rustpics/index.html
Last edited by derekderek; Feb 18, 2019 at 07:05 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,387
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From: CA.
also if you look down between the firewall and the engine on the drivers side you will see a casting number on the block. . it should read 3999289. if it does it is the correct 454 block for this car. the numbers on the front passenger side of the block will tell you if its the born with engine. the last few numbers should be same as the vin.
as far as a good deal I guess it depends on how much work can you do yourself. your looking at around 8 or 10 k to have it painted the correct way. at least here in pa.
does motor need to be rebuilt?
hows frame and birdcage?
interior parts are expensive as all other parts on a vette.
you can get a really nice 73 BB that will need nothing for low 20s to mid from what I have been seeing. although there were only 4412 made in 73.
for me I always buy the nicest one I can find. usually ends up being much cheaper and easier in the long run.,
I would try to get him down anothere grand or 2. good luck ,Nutsy
as far as a good deal I guess it depends on how much work can you do yourself. your looking at around 8 or 10 k to have it painted the correct way. at least here in pa.
does motor need to be rebuilt?
hows frame and birdcage?
interior parts are expensive as all other parts on a vette.
you can get a really nice 73 BB that will need nothing for low 20s to mid from what I have been seeing. although there were only 4412 made in 73.
for me I always buy the nicest one I can find. usually ends up being much cheaper and easier in the long run.,
I would try to get him down anothere grand or 2. good luck ,Nutsy
Last edited by nutsy; Feb 18, 2019 at 09:03 AM.
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From: SW Florida.
And if vin does not match, the larger stamping will tell you what vehicle, year, rated hp, etc. First letter is engine plant. Next 3 or 4 numbers month and year. 3 letters after that is the broadcast code that is details on what it was and what it was installed in. Remember, anybody could have changed crank, pistons, cam, etc. Code sez what it was, not what it is now.
Last edited by derekderek; Feb 18, 2019 at 08:52 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 101
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From: CA; Bay Area
also if you look down between the firewall and the engine on the drivers side you will see a casting number on the block. . it should read 3999289. if it does it is the correct 454 block for this car. the numbers on the front passenger side of the block will tell you if its the born with engine. the last few numbers should be same as the vin.
as far as a good deal I guess it depends on how much work can you do yourself. your looking at around 8 or 10 k to have it painted the correct way. at least here in pa.
does motor need to be rebuilt?
hows frame and birdcage?
interior parts are expensive as all other parts on a vette.
you can get a really nice 73 BB that will need nothing for low 20s to mid from what I have been seeing. although there were only 4412 made in 73.
for me I always buy the nicest one I can find. usually ends up being much cheaper and easier in the long run.,
I would try to get him down anothere grand or 2. good luck ,Nutsy
as far as a good deal I guess it depends on how much work can you do yourself. your looking at around 8 or 10 k to have it painted the correct way. at least here in pa.
does motor need to be rebuilt?
hows frame and birdcage?
interior parts are expensive as all other parts on a vette.
you can get a really nice 73 BB that will need nothing for low 20s to mid from what I have been seeing. although there were only 4412 made in 73.
for me I always buy the nicest one I can find. usually ends up being much cheaper and easier in the long run.,
I would try to get him down anothere grand or 2. good luck ,Nutsy
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From: Napa Valley California
My opinion,
I would walk away from this car for 7k.
The paint is orange peeled and is that a crack above the lopsided Stingray emblem on the fender.
The interior is a mess and the shifter doesn’t look right to me.
Even the tail lights are wrong.
I looked at numerous 73’s before I bought mine and I would say a good price for this one would be in the $1500.00 range.
It would be a place to start if it was rust free, if you pulled the body and started a complete resto/mod and didn’t mind sinking $30,000.00 into it.
If you think it is something you will do a quick sale for a profit, it is my opinion you will loose a couple thousand just to get rid of it.
I looked at several much nicer 73’s for the price they are asking for this one.
Be cautious.
I would walk away from this car for 7k.
The paint is orange peeled and is that a crack above the lopsided Stingray emblem on the fender.
The interior is a mess and the shifter doesn’t look right to me.
Even the tail lights are wrong.
I looked at numerous 73’s before I bought mine and I would say a good price for this one would be in the $1500.00 range.
It would be a place to start if it was rust free, if you pulled the body and started a complete resto/mod and didn’t mind sinking $30,000.00 into it.
If you think it is something you will do a quick sale for a profit, it is my opinion you will loose a couple thousand just to get rid of it.
I looked at several much nicer 73’s for the price they are asking for this one.
Be cautious.
Last edited by OldCarBum; Feb 18, 2019 at 12:33 PM.
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Burning Brakes
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From: Indianapolis Indiana
Is that a coolant fill cap inline with the upper radiator hose?
I've never seen that before is that a 73 thing ? :P
also, as said above? Unless its different than my 69, ins't there a bit of the shifter missing that allows you to go into reverse ?
I've never seen that before is that a 73 thing ? :P
also, as said above? Unless its different than my 69, ins't there a bit of the shifter missing that allows you to go into reverse ?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 101
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From: CA; Bay Area
Car is worth a look right?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 935
Likes: 20
From: Indianapolis Indiana
It does seem to have some issues. You might as well look at it. Definitely do some research on looking for rusty frame/birdcage.
If that paint job is as bad as people are saying, I would be worried they did a bad job trying to hide something.
If that paint job is as bad as people are saying, I would be worried they did a bad job trying to hide something.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 101
Likes: 3
From: CA; Bay Area
The interior is very rough and the body had cracks everywhere. If I dropped $10k-$12k on body work, I’d be close to $20k not including interior work.
I had to pass.
Thanks for all the advice........until next time.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 101
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From: CA; Bay Area
Drove and hour out to view the car. The motor was stout but the holley carb needed some adjustments.
The interior is very rough and the body had cracks everywhere. If I dropped $10k-$12k on body work, I’d be close to $20k not including interior work.
I had to pass.
Thanks for all the advice........until next time.
The interior is very rough and the body had cracks everywhere. If I dropped $10k-$12k on body work, I’d be close to $20k not including interior work.
I had to pass.
Thanks for all the advice........until next time.