"while I'm in there"
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
"while I'm in there"
Just trying to figure out a complete list of everything I should replace while I have the dash out of my 1981 corvette. I plan to replace the headlight switch, the wiper switch and the heater core. Is there anything else that I am missing that I should do "while I am in there?" TIA
#2
Safety Car
Member Since: May 2004
Location: los altos hills california
Posts: 3,615
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My advice is relative to my 69
Take a picture of your harness routing before you pull everything out
Install LED bulbs and better sockets
On my 69, I jumpered all the bulbs in two groups to make re-installation easier
The shift console on the early years is a big PITA. I made some mods there to make re-installation easier
Take a picture of your harness routing before you pull everything out
Install LED bulbs and better sockets
On my 69, I jumpered all the bulbs in two groups to make re-installation easier
The shift console on the early years is a big PITA. I made some mods there to make re-installation easier
Last edited by ignatz; 02-19-2019 at 04:47 PM.
#3
Does your oil pressure gauge flicker? If so, change it.
The speakers will be trash.
You may need the two circuit boards. Heat kills them.
Did you buy a new dash? The original WILL crack when removed.
I would also get a new circuit board for the courtesy light timer. The old ones suck.
The speakers will be trash.
You may need the two circuit boards. Heat kills them.
Did you buy a new dash? The original WILL crack when removed.
I would also get a new circuit board for the courtesy light timer. The old ones suck.
#4
Le Mans Master
Changing out the ignition switch on top of the steering column isn't a bad idea, considering the original is 38 years old. Not hard to do, once you drop the steering column, which I imagine, you will. Make sure you get an AC/Delco or GM switch, when you do.
#5
Le Mans Master
Especially if you pull the the bulbs to replace the flexible circuit boards, consider upgrading to LEDs. I have warm LEDs that look stock, have more light, and draw fewer amps. With the parts on your bench is the best time to test the circuit to make sure you insert the bulbs in the correct direction.
Also, the high-beam switch, on top of the steering column.
Also, the high-beam switch, on top of the steering column.
Last edited by Bikespace; 02-19-2019 at 05:42 PM.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the suggestions, I have replaced the bulbs with leds the other day. I do not have a new dash, just want to replace all the old stuff that is starting to go. I do need to fix the oil pressure gauge and not 100% sure how to change the ign switch.
#7
Thanks for all the suggestions, I have replaced the bulbs with leds the other day. I do not have a new dash, just want to replace all the old stuff that is starting to go. I do need to fix the oil pressure gauge and not 100% sure how to change the ign switch.
The dampening fluid in them dries up, hence the flicker.
The ignition switch is easy, and available at GM still. Tilt and non tilt are different numbers. Google Jim Shea steering papers and read up.
Last edited by Big2Bird; 02-19-2019 at 06:34 PM.
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#8
Le Mans Master
When you have the heater box out for the heater core, go ahead a buy a seal kit if you haven't planned to already, so you therefore replace all the seals associated with the heater box.
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
#10
The center gauge lens is not too spendy. The speedo lens is more, and you need to modify them to fit. (Made wrong). Not too bad.
#11
Burning Brakes
Are you replacing the headlight switch because it's bad, or just old? I would take a cleaned up original switch over a re-pop any day. Test the H/L switch vacuum valve for vacuum leaks. Clean up the electrical contacts with fine abrasive of your choice & coat with dielectric grease. When I need to repair a H/L switch if I need new parts for it, I use what I need from a new one and rebuild what's left.
#12
Are you replacing the headlight switch because it's bad, or just old? I would take a cleaned up original switch over a re-pop any day. Test the H/L switch vacuum valve for vacuum leaks. Clean up the electrical contacts with fine abrasive of your choice & coat with dielectric grease. When I need to repair a H/L switch if I need new parts for it, I use what I need from a new one and rebuild what's left.
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
Are you replacing the headlight switch because it's bad, or just old? I would take a cleaned up original switch over a re-pop any day. Test the H/L switch vacuum valve for vacuum leaks. Clean up the electrical contacts with fine abrasive of your choice & coat with dielectric grease. When I need to repair a H/L switch if I need new parts for it, I use what I need from a new one and rebuild what's left.
#14
Speaking of vacuum. It's easier to replace the heater control vacuum lines with dash out.
#15
Le Mans Master
I'm curious as to why you are doing this. Is it for weight savings? Fixing the vacuum leaks will make the car run better, of course, but the vacuum system is pretty cheap to fix.