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Alright so I scored a set of '76 power window doors a while back to swap out on my '68 project.this week I swapped out the glass for the convertible glass from my previous doors. Now I am trying to add the wiring to make everything work right. I was able to pull a wiring harness from dad's stash of parts but I have some questions.
Here's what I have:
Overall picture
Relay
Pink and black wire
Orange and black wire
I'm having some issues finding good wiring diagrams that I can actually comprehend. I'm not sure where the pink and black wire connects to. I think the orange and black gets plugged into the fuse box. My last issue is that I thought that the harness should have power brought in through the firewall from a breaker on the firewall, but I can't figure out how that would be wired with what I have here.
If I'm not mistaken, the bright metal box in the 2nd pic is the relay for the power windows and attaches on top of the trans tunnel, right by the shifter. The one funny looking connector with the triangular 'ears' shape, not far from that bright metal box, right in the middle of the first pic is the connector to the power window switch that is located on the hand brake console. You're missing one of the connectors, because the wires are cut and you're going to have to source another one to splice in there.
The orange and black end on the left, plugs into the fuse box. You can tell that, because how close it is, to the rubber frame-to-door wire protector (or whatever you want to call it, it covers the wires between the frame and the driver door). On the right of the top pic, the long blue/brown wire set, I believe that goes out to the passenger door motor. I can take some pics tonight or have some pics of mine, as it's disassembled right now and all of the trans tunnel is visible.
I didn't have any diagram show up with that link, but I tend to have issues viewing things on Willcox for some reason.
I found this diagram supposedly for a 1974 and it seems to help some:
Because I am hooking up to a 1968 wiring harness I don't think things hook up the exact same as shown. I am pretty sure I need to now hook up the 20ga pink and black with to the IGN spade on the fuse box and run the 12ga orange and black wire into the engine bay to a 30amp breaker with a wire running from the breaker to the horn relay.
Does that plan sound correct to anyone out on the forum?
Originally Posted by F22
If I'm not mistaken, the bright metal box in the 2nd pic is the relay for the power windows and attaches on top of the trans tunnel, right by the shifter. The one funny looking connector with the triangular 'ears' shape, not far from that bright metal box, right in the middle of the first pic is the connector to the power window switch that is located on the hand brake console. You're missing one of the connectors, because the wires are cut and you're going to have to source another one to splice in there.
The orange and black end on the left, plugs into the fuse box. You can tell that, because how close it is, to the rubber frame-to-door wire protector (or whatever you want to call it, it covers the wires between the frame and the driver door). On the right of the top pic, the long blue/brown wire set, I believe that goes out to the passenger door motor. I can take some pics tonight or have some pics of mine, as it's disassembled right now and all of the trans tunnel is visible.
I addressed the orange/black wire above. I have plenty of of switch connectors and will fix that on that is missing.
Or- you can "upgrade" with relays- eliminate issues with inferior Chinese junk switches- AND not have to route wires to the engine compartment.
(4) Bosch 5 pin (SPDT) relays - Can get power directly from the battery and one wire ignition switched wire from several sources (fusebox is the easiest))- as this wire pulls very little power. Oh - and the windows will be faster!!!
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does there need to be a jumper from 06 to 87a to send a neg to the motor? It has been a while since I converted mine to relays so I could've forgotten how that all works.
The OEM motors have three wires- so no need to ground the NC side. Aftermarket or 2 wire (newer OEM) motors you would.
Oh -I should have labeled rather than "fused" - should have said circuit breaker. So if somebody or something holds down the switch- it'll reset rather than blow a fuse.
The OEM motors have three wires- so no need to ground the NC side. Aftermarket or 2 wire (newer OEM) motors you would.
Oh -I should have labeled rather than "fused" - should have said circuit breaker. So if somebody or something holds down the switch- it'll reset rather than blow a fuse.
Ok so if I went with this setup you posted, I would still need to run the power from the battery through a 30amp breaker on the way to the relays correct? And the existing pink 12ga wire that normally ran to the old relay would run to the ign spade on the fuse box correct?
Ok so if I went with this setup you posted, I would still need to run the power from the battery through a 30amp breaker on the way to the relays correct? And the existing pink 12ga wire that normally ran to the old relay would run to the ign spade on the fuse box correct?
Yep- here's a corrected diagram- However- the wire for the ignition can be a small gauge wire 16-18 GU and fuse at 5A
This may or may not be helpful but since my door cards are off of my 68 and I have just replaced my power windows and harnesses I will throw in a photo for reference. Sometimes a picture can help clarify things....
Adding Power Windows
