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...would have been drilled? Pulling apart the shift console housing on my ‘69 and now I understand why it feels so hot/cold right near the shifter! I patched it today (FIRST fiberglass repair ever) but looking for any ideas here.
Thanks as always gang!
Last edited by mkalman4867; 03-16-2019 at 11:46 PM.
EDIT: I'm not sure those holes were drilled so much as punched through. I can't imagine why, though. Are any other systems plumbed through the tunnel? Brake lines (evidence of an old proportioning valve), or electronics that seem out of place?
A brake Bias valve or possibly in this case a Line.Lock
Brake bias valve is a screw-type metering valve that allows you to meter the amount and pressure of fluid traveling to the rear brakes (in this case). Race car drivers use this to change the 'force' of the front brakes versus the rear brakes. 70-75 % of braking is done by the front calipers usually....don't make me get into 'weight transfer'!
A line-lock is what drag racers use to temporarily disable the REAR brakes LOCKS the front calipers full ON. so they can 'stand on the brake' and the loud pedal at the same time and 'warm up the tires' with burning up the rear brakes.
Clear as MUD!
okay 'witness marks' Example; Imagine a bolt and a washer that has been tightened....the ACT of tightening creates drag or 'presence' marks on the bolt, washer, and what the bolt and washer was bolted to...
in other cases they witness marks are linear.
Can I just come to AZ and do the Matrix "download" from your brain? Man, I appreciate this...I'm still doing 2+2 and you're talking calculus to me, but I'll get there!! Thank you as always!!
Michael
Last edited by mkalman4867; 03-18-2019 at 03:39 PM.
Not necessarily related to why the hole but that is not a factory shifter, probably Hurst.
Oh man...more research to do now. It looked fully factory from "above ground" but I never thought that it wouldn't be original (I have very little automotive knowledge and everything I'm doing to this car is cosmetic).
SMH...
So, while I have your attention, what would be the benefit of a Hurst shifter vs. original factory?
Last edited by mkalman4867; 03-18-2019 at 03:58 PM.
I frankly, love the original Chevy shifter....I'm going to say IMHO that there is little difference. Probably a slightly shorter shift...the gear shift **** moves a smaller amount. GREAT MARKETING! Linda Vaughn says Hi!
Okay....legend has it that the Chevy shifter has weak shift pins....that MAY be true and it may be 'value engineering' metalurgically.... In my experience and that only covers rebuilding 5 each C-3's this 'weak pin legend' is usually traceable to guys who drive around with their hand on the shift **** ALLATIME. So if you think of your hand and arm as a 'organic damper' where does all that vibration go?....into the shifter pins.
When I was taught to drive a manual by a camp counselor....he would slap my hand every time I left my hand on the shifter! He got me out of that habit quickly!
Hurst makes a good product and I wouldn't change it back....but the Chevy shifter , spacing, acuity, throw and longevity is amongst the best in the business.
Let's see how much skin the rest of the guys leave me!
I figure the linkages were getting stuck.....and BUBBA was too fat to get under the car and wiggle them.
A possibility....
If it was a brake bias valve...there would be witness marks, when it was bolted up.
I doubt it, because an adjustable brake bias valve is usually located on the chassis, where the front and rear lines split off.
Unkahal
Originally Posted by mkalman4867
…..So, while I have your attention, what would be the benefit of a Hurst shifter vs. original factory?
The major difference between the Hurst and factory shifters, is that the Hurst bolts directly to the transmission tail housing, whereas the factory shifter bolts to the frame. What makes this a concern, is during "moments of brisk acceleration", the engine rolls a little bit, as a reaction to torque, and this movement, especially if the engine/transmission mounts are worn and sloppy, could cause the factory shift linkage to bind. The Hurst shifter, being bolted to the transmission, rolls with the engine/transmission, therefore it won't bind.
The major difference between the Hurst and factory shifters, is that the Hurst bolts directly to the transmission tail housing, whereas the factory shifter bolts to the frame. What makes this a concern, is during "moments of brisk acceleration", the engine rolls a little bit, as a reaction to torque, and this movement, especially if the engine/transmission mounts are worn and sloppy, could cause the factory shift linkage to bind. The Hurst shifter, being bolted to the transmission, rolls with the engine/transmission, therefore it won't bind.
I was supposed to have my car flighted after these improvements are done...this sounds like something that is good for my safety but bad for my points deduct!!
Last edited by mkalman4867; 03-18-2019 at 08:15 PM.
My 80 came with a Hurst. I tightened some bolts, made it so the reverse lever wasn't 2 threads from falling off, added a metal bushing "pit pack", and sprayed the crap out of it with brake cleaner, and the transmission still shifts like I'm stirring a barrel full of door ***** with a shovel. My engine mounts are shot (she's on the lift now to get fixed), so the entire engine (and shifter) would rotate to the right a few inches under "brisk accelleration". I love it!
You must have noticed the "Hurst Slap", to get the car into reverse. You may have to put the car into first, first, to keep it from grinding into reverse, too.
Enjoy driving your car, and don't worry about NCRS points!
My 80 came with a Hurst. I tightened some bolts, made it so the reverse lever wasn't 2 threads from falling off, added a metal bushing "pit pack", and sprayed the crap out of it with brake cleaner, and the transmission still shifts like I'm stirring a barrel full of door ***** with a shovel. My engine mounts are shot (she's on the lift now to get fixed), so the entire engine (and shifter) would rotate to the right a few inches under "brisk accelleration". I love it!
You must have noticed the "Hurst Slap", to get the car into reverse. You may have to put the car into first, first, to keep it from grinding into reverse, too.
Enjoy driving your car, and don't worry about NCRS points!
OMG. I thought it was just me!!! I have had to exactly that!!! I need to read all this again, do some more research, and adjust my expectations!!
My 80 came with a Hurst. I tightened some bolts, made it so the reverse lever wasn't 2 threads from falling off, added a metal bushing "pit pack", and sprayed the crap out of it with brake cleaner, and the transmission still shifts like I'm stirring a barrel full of door ***** with a shovel. My engine mounts are shot (she's on the lift now to get fixed), so the entire engine (and shifter) would rotate to the right a few inches under "brisk accelleration". I love it!
You must have noticed the "Hurst Slap", to get the car into reverse. You may have to put the car into first, first, to keep it from grinding into reverse, too.
Enjoy driving your car, and don't worry about NCRS points!
You're aware of the "neutral gate" adjustment, right??
03-16-2019, 08:50 PM
Anyone have any ideas on why this hole...
