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Greetings. I have been a member of this forum for a long time, coming close to purchasing a Corvette several times, several different generations. In reaching back to my high school years, I decided on a C3, first year run. The 68 that I have now is numbers matching and a claimed (the past titles seem to confirm this) 26K original miles. I am starting to sort it out, as there are some things that need attention: Tachometer not working, driver hood latch pops out, wiper cowling does not retract flush, clock (of course), slight pull to the right and steering not centered, and a pretty poor respray that looks good at 10 feet, but upon closer look they did a horrible job feathering and blocking paint chips as well as some areas that are rippled from too thick a coat. Anyway, I am working through those issues, with the goal of bringing it as close to original as possible. To that end, I am starting with the engine compartment. Here are a few pictures. Obviously the distributor has been replaced, but with the expertise here I am asking for your input in identifying what else under the hood is not original. Thanks all, and though this one has some issues, I am pretty stoked to finally own one.
Congrats! Favorite color.
Tach not working might be due to the dizzy having a tach drive cable or lack of in your case. Looks like all MSD stuff.
You forgot to mention a "brake pedal to the floor" issue. If you are going to own a C3 and be a forum member, you can't have a firm pedal.
(Its against the rules)
Congrats!
Tach not working might be due to the dizzy having a tach drive cable or lack of in your case. Looks like all MSD stuff.
You forgot to mention a "brake pedal to the floor" issue. If you are going to own a C3 and be a forum member, you can't have a firm pedal.
Its against the rules.
So are you saying that when the distributor was switched to electronic ignition they did not swap the tach for a non-mechanical one? That is almost humorous, and should be easy to identify.
Brakes seem fine, but will be on the watch for the floor issue. What has been more of a shock for me - getting rid of a 2017 Jaguar SUV and a 2005 Jaguar XKR convertible - is how raw this Corvette is. No power brakes. A manual top! LAP BELTS only! I have to remind myself how far the tech and engineering has come in the past 50 years. That said, no regrets, I have a new Jeep Wrangler 4-door to take care of the daily driver needs.
My other issue is that I have a hard time fitting into it. I am 6'3" and 250 with a size 14 shoe. I cannot put my left foot anywhere but over the clutch, and shifting into reverse is barely doable with my right leg squeezed between the console and steering wheel. I have a 14" wheel on order, and realize that I can have an additional 2-4 inches of legroom if I would just lose some or all of my fat ***.
First thing regarding the tach is to look and see if the cable is actually attached to the distributor.
My 73 has a manual distributor and I’m installing an MSD distributor that comes with the housing for Corvettes that has the set up for the manual tach drive.
If you want to keep the MSD and the prior owner did not order the correct unit, just order the proper Corvette distributor from MSD.
The photos of the engine bay look nice, but we would like to see more of your 68.
I guess the commitment to owning a Corvette is also a commitment to good health.
About the only way to insure you will fit better into your Corvette is to do like I do; which is to hike, mountain bike, cycle, run or join a gym.
Congrats on your 68 and welcome to the forum
the tach issue isnt as simple as it sounds- when the vette went to electronic ignition, the gauges were different. so you cant just swap one in.
the correct way would be to use a correct tach drive distributor so can attach the tach cable
Easy to identify if this is the issue but not quite as easy to fix. There is an MSD distributor with a mechanica tach Drive. Not hard to replace with the correct one, but it’ll set you back $300 or so. The alternative, if you want to keep the MSD, is to convert your tach to electronic. Essentially, you attach the until to the back of your gauge and attach the wires to the MSD controller. More work but around half the cost.
You might want to also see if you could get some relief by adjusting the seat back angles.
Assuming you can confirm that the seat tracks are locked in full-rear position, the backs can be adjusted for "recline" angle by adjusting the rubber foot bolt at the hinge, and then removing some/all shims. Just make sure you don't have it set so far reclined that the bulkhead keeps the seat tracks from locking into full-rear position (potentially unsafe).
Congrats. +1 tach doesnt work due to aftermarket distributor.
Guess you didnt know the "cockpit" is smaller on a '68? The door panels on the later years are thinner giving about 2" more of shouder room, it is noticeable when I drive my buddies '68 [I have a '70]
You dont need shoulder belts or a power top! Power brakes/steering is nice to have...
I have a 75, so this could be totally wrong...but I believe the master cylinder cap should be cadmium plated like the wiper door actuator. Not sure how picky you wanna get though.
Congrats. +1 tach doesnt work due to aftermarket distributor.
Guess you didnt know the "cockpit" is smaller on a '68? The door panels on the later years are thinner giving about 2" more of shouder room, it is noticeable when I drive my buddies '68 [I have a '70]
You dont need shoulder belts or a power top! Power brakes/steering is nice to have...
I guess you don't as long as you don't ever hit anything
Welcome,,, i also enjoyed a '68, roadster, the first C3 I owned,, i loved all the one year things about it,, but many others just don't enjoy that so much,,,mine also had no power brakes, and no power steering , but it was still fairly easy to drive, {just, point and shoot, lol,} Favorite one year things the '68 has, I love the backup light placement,,, and I had a early production model, and love the location of the drivers door rear view mirror, IMHO, they should have let that go on for the rest of the crome mirror C3's. ......... Your eng bay looks great,, pix a lil dark for details,, we all would love more pix,,
Hope you'll get to really love the '68s
....My other issue is that I have a hard time fitting into it. I am 6'3" and 250 with a size 14 shoe. I cannot put my left foot anywhere but over the clutch, and shifting into reverse is barely doable with my right leg squeezed between the console and steering wheel. I have a 14" wheel on order, and realize that I can have an additional 2-4 inches of legroom if I would just lose some or all of my fat ***.
If a telescopic / tilt column was available for the '68 it may help with some of your clearance issues. Also Al Knoch offers a concave seat cushion that will improve headroom clearance.
You might want to mount the wiper door actuator valve to the fender well, both seals are missing for the wiper door actuator. The radio interference kit is missing from the distributor along with the plug wires that are routed incorrectly, the smog pump and related system is missing, and if my fading memory is correct the 300 hp engine came with painted valve covers, those OEM chrome ones you have[350hp] are very hard to find. You should invest in a factory assembly manual. T
You might want to mount the wiper door actuator valve to the fender well, both seals are missing for the wiper door actuator. The radio interference kit is missing from the distributor along with the plug wires that are routed incorrectly, the smog pump and related system is missing, and if my fading memory is correct the 300 hp engine came with painted valve covers, those OEM chrome ones you have[350hp] are very hard to find. You should invest in a factory assembly manual. T
Many thanks. Wiper door actuator boot ordered, as well as both a Haynes and factory assembly manual.
Smog pump is missing, I assume it was pulled when the headers went on.
The valve covers do have 300hp stickers, but you are saying they are OEM for the 350hp variant?
there were no HP stickers on valve covers in 68. the stickers look like they are off an earlier car (possibly the valve covers too?)
but they are correct, a 327/ 300 hp would originally have painted valve covers, not chrome.
Thanks. I am learning quite a bit... I want it to be correct, but not perfect, which brings up a lot of questions. Reproduction parts, used parts, or new original stock?
Modifications that were appropriate for the time, like the valve covers and headers and (possibly) electronic ignition, or bring it back to how it was when it rolled off the assembly line?
I don't yet know if I want this to be a show car. I want something for the weekend cruises, something to have fun with. But if I am to believe the original mileage claim, then such a low mileage example brought back to factory condition would be much more valuable than one that is modified or uses cheap China reproduction parts.
I urge you to consider the Zip Electronic tach kit......I have one in mine and the needle does not bounce like they did new....
Pretty intact car.......everyone else has chimed in already on what is potentially wrong......
03-25-2019, 10:12 AM
Took the plunge, now time for some expert advice
