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The Hood is an L88 with airbox, awesome addition if it's an OEM Hood. I applaud you for considering resurrecting a 68, it will be very expensive (I have a 68 Vert 427 NOM) and you'll have a hard time recovering the $ you invest (not considering your labor at all).
I bought mine from a neighbor (so I know it'd been in heated storage for the last 20 years) and the frame still isn't great by any means and a based on your photo's I'm guessing this one will be rougher. Loot at the fuel lines above the passenger frame rail, if bad that'll require at least a partial lift of Body to replace if going after stock resto.
I bought mine for what seemed like a reasonable price considering NOM 427 w/Tri-power, in retro i should have bought a 69 (fewer one of parts) NOM SB with better frame/paint and then put in a BB.
I think the Body/Paint work on your possible project added to all the 50 yo Mech. stuff will put a big dent in your wallet (not as much as a 67 tho).
Here's an early welcome to the 68 money pit club (and yes, I love my 68 Vert. Warts and all)
PS, you can pick up fairly clean frames in the $2-3000.00 if you're willing to drive a ways.
Haha I think that's the one thing I haven't gotten a grasp on. How much it'll cost to do everything. Mostly cause I plan on doing as much work as I can and just spending money on parts. But I'll take it one step at a time. One purchase at a time. Luckily I live in a smallish town and people know people who have parts lying around. And there's a drag strip too so events are gonna be my new networking scene. scene
I say build the car if you're comfortable with the buy in price. It will be a great experience and a nice/desirable car when you're finished. 1968 convert is a terrific looking car and parts are (mostly) easy to get, with the exception of a few '68 only items. If you're waiting for a '67 project to come along, you could wait forever. They start about $20 K for a rough one and go up quickly from there. Parts for the C2's are pretty costly now. Plus, everybody and his dog is in line for a C2 project when they pop up. I paid $18K for my '65 project 2 months ago, and I think I stole it. Keep us updated as to your decision. Greg
The buy in price is definitely why I'm so interested in it. But also why I'm trying to do as much research as I can cause I don't want wool pulled over my eyes. And getting a c2 may be something I look more into in the future after I get the certificate up and running and people show an interest in it.
Finally made it back to his farm to look at the car and get more pictures. Still trying to figure out if it's an original 427. I'd been researching the forums and online and saw that 1 fuel line along the passenger frame was a good indicator but the tach redlines at 6000, which is a L79 327. Didn't get to check the transmission but it is a 4 speed. Just not sure which one. Fingers crossed on it being a m22 but that's hopeful wishing.
Currently the car has a 350 in it. Got the numbers for it and looked those up as well. 14010207, GM57LG. Not sure what exactly it came from but if anyone can figure it out I'd greatly appreciate it.
Just a few more pictures I took. I know the car is gonna need a lot of work either sand blasting all the parts or buying new ones, whichever I decide. But for 2k I honestly feel like it's worth it. Frame is pretty solid. Didn't see any thing rusted through. Just alot of flaking and surface rust. Birdcage is my biggest concern but I checked around the windshield and it all looked fine. Car hasn't run in a while. The guy I'm buying it from hasn't started it in the year or so he's had it. The oil was pretty black but not sluggish. Radiator hoses felt like there were chunks of something in them. Large chunks. So I know starting it won't happen any time soon. Would've been nice to hear it run before I get it and dismantle it but eh. If you guys see anything alarming please let me know. He's in no rush to sell it so I've got time to do more research.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Hard to turn down any 68 for $2k. As for thranny, 68s didnt have any indicator stamps on the tranny as to what one it was, you would have to pull the side plate to see if it has straighter cut teeth of an M22. The tach could have been replaced at some point. Check the rear end and see if the u joints have a strap or caps holding them on. Thats another indicator of a big block but again, parts could have been switched out.
Hard to turn down any 68 for $2k. As for thranny, 68s didnt have any indicator stamps on the tranny as to what one it was, you would have to pull the side plate to see if it has straighter cut teeth of an M22. The tach could have been replaced at some point. Check the rear end and see if the u joints have a strap or caps holding them on. Thats another indicator of a big block but again, parts could have been switched out.
Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
Having an L79 is cool too!!!
I agree. I'm just hoping he's not trying to sell it for so low cause of unspoken problems. But he seems pretty trustworthy. He's a Corvette guy too so he knows it's worth if everything he's said is true. He just doesn't have money or time and isn't in as good of health to work on it. And I tried to check the u joints but tbh I wasn't sure what I was looking for. I tried to Google it before I looked at it again but I couldn't make heads or tails of it. If you or anyone could help out with that, that'd be great.
The rusting speedometer face would have me concerned. To me that would point to likely moisture-possible rusted birdcage.
Yea I was wondering why that could've been rusty. Birdcage is still one of my biggest concerns cause I can't really check it without taking things apart. I could probably get to the kick panels but that only covers the bottom corners
I agree. I'm just hoping he's not trying to sell it for so low cause of unspoken problems. But he seems pretty trustworthy. He's a Corvette guy too so he knows it's worth if everything he's said is true. He just doesn't have money or time and isn't in as good of health to work on it. And I tried to check the u joints but tbh I wasn't sure what I was looking for. I tried to Google it before I looked at it again but I couldn't make heads or tails of it. If you or anyone could help out with that, that'd be great.
Big blocks used these where the half shafts bolt to the differential.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
If you can jack it , bring a really bright light and you can see most of the mounts from underneath and the rear wheel wells. Hope it turns out to be as he stated with just surface rust
If you can jack it , bring a really bright light and you can see most of the mounts from underneath and the rear wheel wells. Hope it turns out to be as he stated with just surface rust
I'll see what I can do. And I hope so too. I'm really interested in getting the car and being able to just work on something that's not a daily driver.
Take a good torch and camera with you next time you visit and get some pics of the birdcage windshield surround from under the dash. Also getting pics of the area behind the feet kick panels is a very good idea. Open both doors and get the area where the trim plate is on both sides.
I would say that car has rust in birdcage for sure, just need to see how much to determine if it's manageable .
Trust me , you don't want to do a birdcage rust removal project for your first C3 experience.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
That would be my biggest fear, that the birdcage is ruined which would make it something I wouldn't want to touch. I can replacea frame and everytihng esle attached to it, but I dont want to do a birdcage or a windshield frame
Hope you have skills and deep pockets. That’s going to need a ton of work, body off frame for sure. That means you need a lot of space for the separated body and frame plus space to organize and store all the crap you take off. Get a better picture of the entire engine bay. Radiator configuration can be a tell tale of a big block.
I researched that 14010207 block number. Appears to be an 82-85 truck block. BUT.... I would not want this car even if it was given to me.... the only reason I would even consider taking it is for parts, and then only if I had somewhere to tear it apart. I am not trying to discourage you, but you really should keep looking; this one needs too much work.