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Intake Manifold Coolant Leak

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Old Apr 11, 2019 | 01:16 PM
  #1  
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Default Intake Manifold Coolant Leak

When I built my engine I put the intake manifold gaskets in without the use of RTV. The coolant leaked from cylinders 7 and 8. I removed the carb, distributor, intake, etc and put new gaskets on using both RTV black and water pump gasket maker around the coolant passages to seal it better. I am still getting (albeit minor and far better than before) a coolant leak over cylinder 8. I am at a loss at this point and don't know how to seal it any better. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Old Apr 11, 2019 | 01:54 PM
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Big block or small block.? Did you have the heads done.? If so, the intake fit may be off now and it needs to be machined.
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Old Apr 11, 2019 | 02:50 PM
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Sorry about that Gold, I should've included those details in my post. It's a small block. The heads are new Edelbrock aluminum heads and the intake is an aluminum one off an 80 L-82.
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Old Apr 11, 2019 | 05:21 PM
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From: The Buckle of the Bible Belt. Joplin Mo
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The Intake manifold sounds cool. I love retro parts, but that could be part of the issue. Its probably seen plenty of miles. Maybe some RTV is in order in this case. Doesn't sound like its off by much. FWIW. When I was looking into aluminum heads, my machinist advised me to bring the new heads in when they arrived so they could be checked. I asked why Apparently they are far from perfect right out of the box.
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Old Apr 11, 2019 | 06:36 PM
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Start over ... again .

Maybe you're not getting bolts tightened equally; they can be hard to get to.

Try these ... small 12-point heads

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...7010/overview/

OR

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1491
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Old Apr 12, 2019 | 11:53 AM
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If you're married to that intake, I would check the heads and intake with a machinist flat edge or square. If you cant see the problem that way, then unbolt the heads and take it all to a machinist
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Old Apr 12, 2019 | 12:17 PM
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A wise, old house painter once told me that the prep work was 90% of a successful paint job. You are not painting but the prep work for laying an intake is about the same.
Never use metal to remove old gasket material. Use a plastic scraper.
Always wipe down BOTH mating surfaces with Acetone. Or the best sealant in the world will never adhere.
Torque the bolts in the proper sequence. Skip trying to use universals and sockets in some places.
Use Edelbrocks Gastinich (sp?) on the bottom of the gasket, let it set-up-tacky. Then apply to the top side of gasket.
The Right Stuff on the china walls.
Should be good to go.
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Old Apr 15, 2019 | 11:41 AM
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here ya go

https://www.summitracing.com/search/...k%20Gasgacinch
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Old Apr 16, 2019 | 12:18 PM
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Hey guys, thank you all for your words. I pulled the intake this weekend and sent it to the guy who machined my block. I should have it back for when I get back home this weekend.

I have used RTV and water pump gasket maker in the past and did this time but it still leaked, which led me to the conclusion that the intake was warped. I removed the gasket and RTV with a plastic scraper and wiped it clean with Brake Clean and isopropyl alcohol so it'll be nice and clean for when the intake goes back in.

I'll keep you all posted!
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Old Apr 16, 2019 | 01:23 PM
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Depending on what the machine shop does and how much milling, this may be a scenario where the thicker gasket is used. FelPro has both the 0.060 thick and the 0.120 thick which is # 1255. Ask your machinist which gasket they recommend regarding the milling / metal removal and alignment of not only the ports but the bolt holes too.

You will have to port match the gasket after obtaining measurements of the port on the cyl head. Then look at Summit for the correct size and thickness you need.
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