I am a new c3 owner with a garage kept beautiful 78 sting ray. The only problem was that the crankshaft was shot. So I just finished a full swap with a 69 C10 motor. Took some doing but I finally got it to sit right, motor mounts connected; driveshaft in. Good to go.




But of course I did a HORRIBLE job keeping track of the cables and now I have no idea what goes where! The starter seems simple enough but when I turn the key nothing happens. The battery was charged before I took out the engine. But the rest is just Greek. Nothing is connected that has anything to do with electricity or fuel. (Oh yeah, did I forget to mention the carburetor lines are also disconnected)




so that is my problem. Basically everything. I’m sure there are some master mechanics that are laughing at me because I’m sure this is all probably really simple. I deserve it. But in between chuckles can you help a guy out? I was hoping for pictures of an already connected engine compartment with close ups of the distributor setup, ignition, and the carburetor lines. But if there is a better method I’m listening!!!



////update////. First off I want to thank everyone for the responses. The pictures will hopefully help me get on track. I was able to verify the starter as connected properly. I also connected the distributor cable but I have one distributor plug disconnected that comes out of a capacitor/battery looking thing that I haven’t identified yet that is attached to the intake manifold
But new problem. Originally I could turn the key and get the gauges to work.
But no action/noise from the starter. I noticed the battery reading below 12 volts so I decided to charge it. But when I did, I heard a click then nothing, and now there is no response from anything. I guess I blew a fuse but I’m not sure which one it would be.

 

Starter has 3 terminals-- the Battery cable connection, (big post at approx. 12'oclock on the solenoid) that should have the battery cable, and 1 or 2 RED wires with large ring terminals on it. The outer small terminal will not have anything on it. The inboard small terminal should have a 10 gauge PURPLE wire. The next one is a black wire that connects to a bellhousing bolt. There is also a ground cable from the right side motor mount stand to the block just in front of the starter.

Sorry, I don't have the pictures with me

 

Thank you! At least I know I did the starter right. The battery must be drained.

 

Here’s my 79:

 

You say you did the starter correctly, but there was nothing when you turned the key. A voltmeter goes a LONG way in basic mechanic'n. With a shot crank, my question would be if the other car ever ran..? 12+ volts and you should get at least a weak crank out of it.. 11.6 will get you a click when you turn the key... If youre lucky. You also need a test light, or to pull fuses, like the ignition fuse to check and see if it is blown. you may have sparked something without knowing it when you hooked everything back up. It happens. Ive blown more than i should admit here... But those are easy checks for your electrical issues.

I dont know how much of what you have disconnected from the carb, or which carb you have.. Or which distributor.. Assuming some kind of vacuum advance distributor, you should have a vacuum hose running from the nipple on the distributor to the bottom of the carb. the nipples should be about the same size (probably front bottom of carb).. There is probably a vent line from the driver side valve cover to the front bottom of the carb too. And then a vacuum line from the brake booster to the intake manifold somewhere (near the distributor). The fuel line to carb should be easy enough to figure out.. Put it back where you got it! The hoses should be old enough and stiff enough that they just kind of fall back into the right general area of where they hook up, unless you just flat out removed it all from the engine bay............. Then Lord help you!! Hahaha
But really, you dont need a ton hooked up to get it running. you just need everything hooked up to run well... Depending on the carb, you should also have an electrical choke, probably on the passenger side of the vehicle. that should have an electrical line ran to it. Youll see a round bugger on that side (the choke), with a short electrical line coming from it.. And probably a naked connection spot. So that needs keyed power. (again, not needed to run, but to run well.)

Anyway, i hope this wasnt too confusing... Good luck!!

 

Free unsolicited advice: the 1978 assembly instruction manual (AIM) and the chassis service manual would be a big help for you.

 

@Jon Hekking - I wish my engine compartment looked as good as yours. I've only had my C3 for about 3 months, hope that soon mine will look half as good as yours!

 

OP
also ... go to Doc Rebuild site and buy his diagrams for wiring & vacuum

http://docrebuild.com/oosoez.html

update your public profile to include an approximate location ... some future help might need to be location-specific

 

If you look closely at Jon's SECOND picture- on the right side there is a silver box just down from the top edge. Just below that there is a white connector, directly to the right of the trans dipstick. That is the connector for the starter extension harness. Check that connector for corrosion or signs of heat.

 

Check the neural safety switch if the starter won’t engage. Try cranking in neutral if it’s an automatic.

 

Ed....
#1 YOU DO NOT OWN A STINGRAY....YOU OWN A CORVETTE PERIOD (Does it say STINGRAY on it, NOPE!) You CAN call it a 'Shark' or even a 'Mako' if you will.

#2. There is an old saying...'before you buy the car, buy the books'... So I recommend the Chevy Corvette SERVICE manual ($57) and the Assembly Manual ($23) and print out the wiring diagrams from PapaWanna...free. They are all color coded.

Sorry to sound like a curmudeon (well I am! LOL) But the 78 also is very mis-understood....78 was the 'silver anniversary' YEAR...and OFTEN I see 'silver anniversary corvette' and it refers to a REGULAR Corvette. Every Corvette in that entire production run had emblems that said 'silver anniversary'....but that does not make them SILVER ANNIVERSARY CORVETTES....which was a 'limited edition' run of silver over gunmetal gray bottom. RPO Code number B2Z

anyway good luck and next time you take something apart..LABEL ALL and take pictures! Makes life much easier.

Unkahal

 

thanks for the info. I do have the limited edition silver on grey

 

YouTube is your friend. Put any 1 question in their search block. Belts, pulleys, brackets are Corvette specific. Wiring, firing order, etc is pretty generic Chevy.