What would be an indication if the trailing arms would be needing to be replaced and how difficult are they to replace ?

 

Replacing them isn't fun, but it's not unbearable with an extra set of hands, ASSUMING the body is on the car. If the body is off everything is super easy to get to. I wouldn't attempt to rebuild them though.

 

I rebuilt mine at home in my garage. I did a lot of reading here on the forum, ton of info on this. Reached out to a couple people that posted for advice and YouTube videos. You will need a couple special tools. I reached out to a member that lent me the tools. Very satisfying project. That's what this hobby and cars are all about. Good luck and enjoy the venture.

 

You do not have to remove the training arms to change out the bearings. You can remove the bearing carrier and service it alone. If your trailing arm bushings are original, then it makes sense to remove the assembly as a unit. I would not use poly bushings on the T/A or you will do it over again in a year or two. Jerry

 

The arms themselves would need replacing if they are rotted out, bent or severely damaged that affects the bearing angles or front bushing angle.

The front bushing needs replacing if its worn out or dry rotted that allows excessive travel torsionally, vertically or longitudinally

The bearings need replacing if they grind, howl or have excessive travel in any direction other than rotationally.

 

Here is a video of a badly worn TA bushing.

 

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...heel-bearings/

http://www.capitalcorvetteclub.ca/at...20Corvette.pdf

http://mycorvetterestoration.com/196...p#.XLee9S-ZO8o

Hope this helps.

 

Original arms maybe due, then again many "rebuilt" arms I have had in were in worse shape then a well aged original. If you remove them it will be easier to check them but you can get a good idea with them on the car.

Look for rot in the arms at the end overlaps and pinch the metal inside around the axle flange area. These rot from the inside out and if you feel any bulging they are no good. The overlaps should be flat.

There will always be play in the front rubber bushings but you can shine a light in on them to see if they are dry rotted. Look on the side on the arms for any signs of impact, where an alignment shop bent them during an alignment. Look at the strut rods too, they should be straight.

Look at the rotors, if the rivets are in place then most likely they are untouched and at 40 years old will need to be rebuilt.

You can do the common rocking of the rotor at 3-9 and check for bearing play but I like to move the caliper out of the way and grab a wheel stud and he how my play there in by pushing/pulling on it. At 003" you can see and feel movement. They should rotate smooth without any noise or roughness.

Here are some pictures, extreme in some cases but they should help you