New fuel line won’t stop leaking
05-17-2019, 02:34 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
New fuel line won’t stop leaking
I’m trying to install new original style fuel lines on the 68 I just bought. Replacing the backed metal/rubber line the previous owner had installed.
No no matter what I do the new lines will not seal. I originally purchased a stainless set- those wouldn’t stop leaking at the fuel filter.
Got tired of messing with those ordered plain steel lines after reading complaints about stainless not sealing. Got them last night try to install today and just get a slow drip a fuel pump no matter what I do? I’ve cranked down so hard I’ve actually bent the fuel pump and it still drips!?!?
I can reinstall the old line and no leaks but no matter what I do he’s line just drips. Anybody else had issues like this? I didn’t have any problems a few years ago when I did my other car. It’s a 327 btw
No no matter what I do the new lines will not seal. I originally purchased a stainless set- those wouldn’t stop leaking at the fuel filter.
Got tired of messing with those ordered plain steel lines after reading complaints about stainless not sealing. Got them last night try to install today and just get a slow drip a fuel pump no matter what I do? I’ve cranked down so hard I’ve actually bent the fuel pump and it still drips!?!?
I can reinstall the old line and no leaks but no matter what I do he’s line just drips. Anybody else had issues like this? I didn’t have any problems a few years ago when I did my other car. It’s a 327 btw
05-17-2019, 02:57 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jan 2017
Location: The Buckle of the Bible Belt. Joplin Mo
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Could the flared end of the line be cracked or damaged from over tightening? Do you have a flaring tool and the ability to cut and re flare the end.? If the line is good it should seal. Fuel pumps are a pain in the @#$%. Make sure the line comes into the pump straight and not at an angle.
05-17-2019, 03:06 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Mar 2006
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13,'19-'20
Something is amiss with your flares...take it all apart and make sure your flares are clean and symmetrical, and free of burr's and such. Good luck!
05-17-2019, 03:50 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
I just went through this when I installed my new fuel pump and fuel line. Still had a drip after tightening the fitting. I remember seeing this thread a while back. A little lubricant on the threads did the trick and I was able to tighten the fittings and had no leaks.
For the pressure lines from the pump>filter>carb! I would LUBE the lines and fittings, threads, etc. those flare fittings need to be as tight as you can get them. You can't tighten dry fittings as much as you can lubed fittings.
A light coating of grease on the tube and flare where the nut contacts it, as well on the threads might solve all your leaks. Worth a try:thumbs:
Lars doesn't like Teflon tape, but a small amount on the threads seems to work. Just don't overdo it if you use tape.
Pete
A light coating of grease on the tube and flare where the nut contacts it, as well on the threads might solve all your leaks. Worth a try:thumbs:
Lars doesn't like Teflon tape, but a small amount on the threads seems to work. Just don't overdo it if you use tape.
Pete
05-17-2019, 04:25 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
The old fittings have seated to each other and now you have introduced and different non mated surface.Verify the flares on the new pipes are concentric, not misformed, out of round, and have no knicks on the sealing surfaces. The hvac industry has copper sealing cones that are placed onto the inverted flare and conform to any irregularities that might be there. They are a couple of bucks on ebay.
05-18-2019, 08:41 AM
#6
Nam Labrat
Member Since: Sep 2013
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ANYTHING that has threads and is made of stainless steel needs a light coat of grease or anti-seize on the mating surfaces.....nuts and bolts especially to keep them from seizing together.
05-18-2019, 10:43 AM
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
Well I tried the grease last night and all seemed well- until I started the car. Still have the drip.
Going to pull it all apart today and recheck all flares.
Also looking at it, it seems like the lines might need some of the bends tweaked a bit. Hopefully I can get this to stop. Really frustrating a job so simple has gotten so involved
Going to pull it all apart today and recheck all flares.
Also looking at it, it seems like the lines might need some of the bends tweaked a bit. Hopefully I can get this to stop. Really frustrating a job so simple has gotten so involved
05-18-2019, 01:56 PM
#8
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2003
Location: Fernandina Beach FL
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2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
2020 C3 of the Year Winner - Modified
Well I tried the grease last night and all seemed well- until I started the car. Still have the drip.
Going to pull it all apart today and recheck all flares.
Also looking at it, it seems like the lines might need some of the bends tweaked a bit. Hopefully I can get this to stop. Really frustrating a job so simple has gotten so involved
Going to pull it all apart today and recheck all flares.
Also looking at it, it seems like the lines might need some of the bends tweaked a bit. Hopefully I can get this to stop. Really frustrating a job so simple has gotten so involved
Here you go-
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caskiguy (05-19-2019)
05-18-2019, 03:22 PM
#9
Le Mans Master
My experience has been when using stainless lines, the alignment to the fitting must be nearly perfect before tightening. The stainless lines are not as forgiving as plain steel lines. For the brake lines, I let the junction blocks float, tightened the fittings on the stainless lines, then made small bends to the line as needed to get the junction block to fit back into place. Worked well for me.
The copper gaskets look interesting. Where are they sold?
The copper gaskets look interesting. Where are they sold?
https://www.grainger.com/product/PAR...e-Gasket-5WRW1
05-18-2019, 03:31 PM
#10
Here is what have found to work EVERY TIME.
Pre-fit and lap the fittings together/make concentric
1. Take your tube with flare nut, put a little dab of grease on the threads and the flare
2. Screw it into the fitting you are mating it with -
3. snug (NOT TIGHT) the nut
4. spin the tube around and around against the flare until you can feel it is looser
5. tighten slightly and do again...
6. repeat for each joint
After each is done assemble respective parts together and tighten.
Pre-fit and lap the fittings together/make concentric
1. Take your tube with flare nut, put a little dab of grease on the threads and the flare
2. Screw it into the fitting you are mating it with -
3. snug (NOT TIGHT) the nut
4. spin the tube around and around against the flare until you can feel it is looser
5. tighten slightly and do again...
6. repeat for each joint
After each is done assemble respective parts together and tighten.
Last edited by firstgenaddict; 05-18-2019 at 03:32 PM.
05-18-2019, 08:32 PM
#11
Drifting
Thread Starter
Well I got it fixed today. Ripped it all back apart and looked everything over. What’s funny is I bought 2 sets- regular and stainless- and each line was a little bit different.
Plain in steel line looked like it had a small nick in the flare so I tried the stainless. Literally just dunked each fitting in a tub of grease. Put it together and let it sit. No leaks after an hour. Took it for a 20 mile drive this evening saw nothing. Will double check everything in the morning
Plain in steel line looked like it had a small nick in the flare so I tried the stainless. Literally just dunked each fitting in a tub of grease. Put it together and let it sit. No leaks after an hour. Took it for a 20 mile drive this evening saw nothing. Will double check everything in the morning
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71 Green 454 (05-18-2019)
05-19-2019, 03:39 PM
#13
Drifting
Thread Starter
Well can’t believe I’m typing this but it started leaking again today. Put about 20 miles on it last night. Today literally just went around the block. Was messing around with the car and decided to check. Put my hand under the fuel pump and it’s damp.
Maybe ill I’ll try these flare gaskets.
Maybe ill I’ll try these flare gaskets.
05-19-2019, 03:52 PM
#14
I had a similar issue with my ‘77. The brass 90 degree fitting that comes out of the bottom of the pump was all boogered up. A quick trip to NAPA and a few turns of the wrench later and the drip was gone. Hope his helps!
Last edited by Devs77; 05-19-2019 at 03:52 PM.
07-11-2019, 08:45 AM
#15
Drifting
Thread Starter
so i completely forgot to update this, but just wanted to let everyone know the outcome, in case someone has a similar issue and is searching in the future...
ended up that the lines were not bent 100% correct, and the line was hitting the hood when closed. why i had so many issues- I would leave the hood open when i was messing with it in my garage and it would be fine, when i shut the hood and drove around it leaked.
I was able to shorten the line from the fuel pump to the filter and no leaks since
ended up that the lines were not bent 100% correct, and the line was hitting the hood when closed. why i had so many issues- I would leave the hood open when i was messing with it in my garage and it would be fine, when i shut the hood and drove around it leaked.
I was able to shorten the line from the fuel pump to the filter and no leaks since
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Jstan2014 (07-11-2019)
07-11-2019, 02:11 PM
#16
Team Owner
Interesting!
07-11-2019, 05:46 PM
#18
Race Director
cheap chinese chit! i bought a holley 4150 dual feed line off fleabay. sprays out both flares. i bent up a rusty ugly old one from a 4010. worked fine. looked Bubba though. anybody know the chinese word for Bubba?
07-12-2019, 11:05 AM
#20
Le Mans Master
布巴 << Bubba in Chinese.. OK I cheated. But I'm in Taiwan right now too. Google Translator.. And oddly enough, the pronunciation is nearly the same as English, with almost the same meaning..
Last edited by TimAT; 07-12-2019 at 11:10 AM.