what would you do with 30K?
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Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2019
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what would you do with 30K?
Looking for a lightly modded 1970-72 and there seems to be so many modern options on cars for sale. Being somewhat uneducated with cars in general, I'm not sure which modifications make the most sense for a nearly 50 year old convertible which I'd like to use as a weekend driver for interstate vacations. Assuming a good frame, birdcage and window structure; and a new paint job not included, where would you spend $30K? After reading about 50 articles on pro-touring/restomods, my head is spinning on whether a newer injected engine vs. suspension vs brakes is a better way to spend the money. Ideally, I'd like to buy a completed project but there's so few inventory in the egg crate era Corvettes.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,180
Likes: 297
From: Sarasota Florida
If you exclude the cost of a decent paint job, $30k ought to do a lot. First thing I would do is drop a 5 speed in it. I personally think that the suspension and brakes will give you all you're looking for if you simply replace 50 year old ball joints, bushings, and have it properly aligned. Rebuild or replace the calipers and maybe add power brakes. While you're at it, consider adding power steering? Motor? That's a good question. I have a big block and while it draws oohs and aahs, I love a peppy small block.
Some will say drop an injected LS1 or newer in it.The only advantage I see in doing that is mileage. Lets' face it the car is fifty years old. That's why we love them. Unless you're going to go all out and update everything else on the car, many of today's sedans will dust your doors. Plus... what's a vette without a carburetor? and distributor? and points?
Oh and lastly: treat your self to some nice sounding pipes.
Just my .02
Russ
Some will say drop an injected LS1 or newer in it.The only advantage I see in doing that is mileage. Lets' face it the car is fifty years old. That's why we love them. Unless you're going to go all out and update everything else on the car, many of today's sedans will dust your doors. Plus... what's a vette without a carburetor? and distributor? and points?
Oh and lastly: treat your self to some nice sounding pipes.
Just my .02
Russ
Last edited by Old Man in a C; Aug 5, 2019 at 12:46 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 14,407
Likes: 8,212
From: Napa Valley California
You don't say where you are located, which can make a big difference with what you can legally modify on what ever year or model you purchase.
If you want to modify the engine smog requirements where you live could prevent you from doing what you want.
Do your research for the area where you live before you buy any year and model to restore or modify.
If you purchase a nice early C3, $30k can do a lot.
If you want to modify the engine smog requirements where you live could prevent you from doing what you want.
Do your research for the area where you live before you buy any year and model to restore or modify.
If you purchase a nice early C3, $30k can do a lot.
Last edited by OldCarBum; Aug 5, 2019 at 01:21 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 48
Likes: 1
If you exclude the cost of a decent paint job, $30k ought to do a lot. First thing I would do is drop a 5 speed in it. I personally think that the suspension and brakes will give you all you're looking for if you simply replace 50 year old ball joints, bushings, and have it properly aligned. Rebuild or replace the calipers and maybe add power brakes. While you're at it, consider adding power steering? Motor? That's a good question. I have a big block and while it draws oohs and aahs, I love a peppy small block.
Some will say drop an injected LS1 or newer in it.The only advantage I see in doing that is mileage. Lets' face it the car is fifty years old. That's why we love them. Unless you're going to go all out and update everything else on the car, many of today's sedans will dust your doors. Plus... what's a vette without a carburetor? and distributor? and points?
Oh and lastly: treat your self to some nice sounding pipes.
Just my .02
Russ
Some will say drop an injected LS1 or newer in it.The only advantage I see in doing that is mileage. Lets' face it the car is fifty years old. That's why we love them. Unless you're going to go all out and update everything else on the car, many of today's sedans will dust your doors. Plus... what's a vette without a carburetor? and distributor? and points?
Oh and lastly: treat your self to some nice sounding pipes.
Just my .02
Russ
I've never driven a C3 nor any Corvette in fact. I just love the look of this era of C3s, instead of getting a high tech Porsche, I figured a modernized classic car would be so much more fun. Not planning to street race, so looking good cruising at 90mph is good is enough for me.
I recently read an article where a guy bought a C3 after being a C6&7 owner and was frightened to death after driving the C3. He changed the tires, replaced the steering/suspension rubber bits, and an alignment which only returned moderate improvements. It wasn't till he restomodded the suspension, steering and brakes that he felt significant changes. I know you can't compare a C7 to a C3. What do each of these 3 changes cost?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 48
Likes: 1
You don't say where you are located, which can make a big difference with what you can legally modify on what ever year or model you purchase.
If you want to modify the engine smog requirements where you live could prevent you from doing what you want.
Do your research for the area where you live before you buy any year and model to restore or modify.
If you purchase a nice early C3, $30k can do a lot.
If you want to modify the engine smog requirements where you live could prevent you from doing what you want.
Do your research for the area where you live before you buy any year and model to restore or modify.
If you purchase a nice early C3, $30k can do a lot.
Can you suggest where to look for these restrictions? Thanks
Racer
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 411
Likes: 232
From: central Florida
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (track prepared)
If you can find a car with solid stock suspension, a 5 spd and a simple bolt on EFI, you'll have a decent driver. If warm climate, you'll probably want to seriously consider AC. It's extremely easy to go down the Pro-Touring rabbit hole and feel the "NEED" for LSx and coil-overs and big brakes and $6000 XXXXX-line wheels. Truth is, a stock 1971 Corvette is still a fun car to drive. The 5spd and EFI is nice for driveability and fuel mileage. If you have sidepipes, dropping 500 rpm will be nice on the eardrums also.
I "downgraded" from a 2012 Boss 302. One of the best automotive decisions I've ever made.
I "downgraded" from a 2012 Boss 302. One of the best automotive decisions I've ever made.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 14,407
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From: Napa Valley California
I'm sure you can get what you need here and then I would ask NJ DMV to verify.
If it were me, I would pick up a nice 68-73, drive it for a while and see what it needs to make it what you want.
Then modify it to your needs and driving style.
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Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,097
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From: New Braunfels Texas
This is what I would do......been on my mind for years.....in the Detroit area growing up...these came out when I turned 16 and they were everywhere up there.......it was like a cult. Probably my first High School crush! LOL!
Jebby
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,180
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From: Sarasota Florida
Educate and good luck.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2019
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same for me, I'm not much of a wrench and just want a reliable car to drive. I've been driving a same Honda for close to 20 years to save enough for something like this. I looked at NSXs, Porsches, Mustangs, Jaguars, etc but keep on coming back to the C3s.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
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Is my vette stock?? HAHA
Joined: Oct 2015
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From: Im not allowed to tell you
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Me personally , I would pay off all my credit card debt and use cash only from here on out. THink next election and economic collapse. But we are talking about you, my friend, and I have other plans for you. BWAHAHAHAHA. Opps sorry, wrong job..
Anywhooo.....If you are doing north to south trips on the east coast, a regular well maintained quadrajet will get you there with no problems. Other wise a nice Sniper style EFI would be best. A Chief in the AIRFORCE just moved here (MA) from Colorado and said he had to tune his 59 rochester fuel injection 3 times because it was so lean coming off the mountains. And he knows what hes doing. Multiple pikes peak racer and veteran of many road courses.
my suggestions as I think they are important
Anywhooo.....If you are doing north to south trips on the east coast, a regular well maintained quadrajet will get you there with no problems. Other wise a nice Sniper style EFI would be best. A Chief in the AIRFORCE just moved here (MA) from Colorado and said he had to tune his 59 rochester fuel injection 3 times because it was so lean coming off the mountains. And he knows what hes doing. Multiple pikes peak racer and veteran of many road courses.
my suggestions as I think they are important
- 5 speed or 6 speed. Nothing is going to save your mind more on the highway than getting the RPM down from 3000 plus other than this mod $5000
- If your going cross country then an EFI will be your best bet. THey are self tuning, will self calibrate to the altitude, and will give the horsepower, tuning and emissions that you will need if your car or state still mandates them. And it will start like a modern car, no adjusting the choke or pumping the pedal to prime the carb and be most maintenance free, Under warranty and parts are available. Most states, even Commiefornia, dont do emissions after 75 $2500 including tank
- Fiberglass rear spring and new shocks. Most likely a matched front to rear setup would be the easiest and best. Most of the forum vendors sell complete kits. My 68 came to me with a pro touring setup from Ecklers and I didnt understand why all the old timers kept saying the rode like buck boards. I know now $4000
- new tire and wheel setups. Finding modern rubber in a 15 inch wheel isnt easy or really available. A 17 inch rim is very common and the rubber is everywhere. Plus there is no 15" rubber that will handle as good as 17" rubber with the factory 27 inch circumference. Your choice on cost of rims and tires. I spent $600 on set of rims in good shape and Firestone Indy Fire Hawks tires at $120 a piece. Performed great on the track. $1200- $2500 or more
- Invest in newer style seats if you get a 68 or 69. maybe even the 70's seats. My 68 seats road like sitting on a milk crate. I ungraded to C5 seats. Of course the motors went away but I kept the lumbar and side bolster supports. In stead of sitting on my seats, I sit in them now. Like a big butt glove. Ohh yaaa. I spent $400
- Upgrade the cooling system. THeres many suppliers for most of the years. Your only limited to choices on the 68 small block because of the radiator support. Get an electric fan setup with your new radiator. You need and Alternator and some wiring too. $500 - $1500
- Upgrade the air conditioning if you have it. Add it if you dont. I havent heard anyone from down south say they hate having it. And you cant drive in Utah or Texas without it. I want to add it to my convertible, you want it that bad. Esspecially on th really hot and humid East coast Summer days $ not sure Ihavent looked into prices yet
- Upgrading the brakes and steering are not necessary if all the bushings, tie rod ends and ball joints are new and the brakes system has been gone through. Just replacing the rubber brakes lines and replacing any leaking calipers is sufficient. The stseering is good enough for road courses. THe brakes are not if you are racing, but for regular normal driving they are great if setup properly. I just had tehe stock system on a road course and the only problem was my choiice of going with organic pads. Ceramic would have been a better choice and probably some drilled and slotted rotors. Maybe if I go racing again next year after they rebuild my local track. I spent $70 a piece for calipers at Autozone with a lifetime warranty. Organic pads were $40 If you must, the steeroids rack and pinion is around a $1000 i think
- Engine upgrades arent necessary if you are just a highway cruiser or going to shows. If you like to show off or do stupid things, Like me, then you can dump some money into your motor on upgrades. Otherewise, Just a good rebuild if its leaking a lot of oil or high mileage and a good performance tune will help any motor. No need to do a swap for an LS or LT. Its a motor. It gets you from A to B. But again the show offs like me like to get there like our pants are on fire and then do donuts when we get there. ABSOLUTELY nothing wrong with a lot of HP, just not necessary depending on the person. Low buck engine build will cost abut $4000
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Aug 5, 2019 at 05:10 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
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I have to agree, especially since you're new to this. When you say you want a '70 -'72, are you aware that those were the years that went thru serious horsepower downgrades and emission controls? (not necessarily a bad thing). Also, you pay a premium for chrome bumper models (pre '73) (also not necessarily a bad thing). My first vette was a 1975, 4 speed, convertible. L48, 165 hp. With just a few easy modifications you can make that car a great little hot rod.
Educate and good luck.
Educate and good luck.
Yeah, the chrome's got me good, I can't even go half and consider a '73. Ironically '73s are much easier to find as restomods, perhaps cause they are less expensive to start as a base?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2019
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same for me, we're about the same age. One kid at school actually had one, but most of the privileged were driving GTs, GTAs or IROCs. Me not so much I had a Mercury LN7....
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
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So if you want to either fly or drive to MN. I sold my 71 C3 with an LS/4l60E swap to Morries Heritage cars. They rent all kind of cars including my vert C3. $250 per day. They've had it for over two years and it has been a good rental for them.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: SW Florida.
jersey emissions wise you are golden. 95-back no emissions and jersey cheaped out and quit inspecting except emissions so just buy tags and put em on. auto only? first mod is 700r or 200r trans. you said interstate. you don't wanna be listening to 3200 rpms for long stretches. noth or south jersey? baltimore area. https://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto...938205493.html
Last edited by derekderek; Aug 5, 2019 at 05:21 PM.
Race Director
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From: SW Florida.
you have never driven a corvette. here is a 77 in trenton. middle of the state. drives like a 72 for the most part. drive it. climb in and out. take the old lady and get her input. https://cnj.craigslist.org/cto/d/tre...933227703.html don't say nuttin to him about hating rubberbabybuggybumpers...
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2015 C2 of Year Finalist
It wasn't that long ago owners of these car drove them anywhere anytime as daily drivers in purely stock form. So if your not spoiled by new cars nothing can stop you from enjoying it as is beside your mind and strangers telling you how to spend your money
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Intermediate
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I grew up driving a Honda CRX with manual steering, no A/C and terrible brakes. At almost 50, I don't want to go back there. For about 10 seconds I even considered a self-driving Tesla, fortunately I woke up...