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1970 big block 454 engine.
I lost the 12-volts feeding the coil and was wondering if anyone know ware the fussable link is located? I see it on my wiring schematic but not sure were it is fiscally located so that I can check if it is good.
On the same note this coming fall I'm going to replace my coil and stainless steel covered spark plug wires as they are around 25-years old. I was wondering if anyone can recommend a high performance factory look alike spark plug wires that have the same outer stainless steel covering with the grounded ends. I also want to replace my coil with a high performance coil. I was told to run E3.40 spark plugs.
Any help or recommendations are appreciated.
I cant tell you exactly where the fusable link is but I can tell you to OHM the wires and if they spec out.....put them back on. My 69' 427/400 had wires stamped 68' on them and the car ran perfect. These are copper core wires, they never go bad unless corroded....and it is the reason for the sheathing and the ignition shielding as well.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by notin
1970 big block 454 engine.
I lost the 12-volts feeding the coil and was wondering if anyone know ware the fussable link is located? I see it on my wiring schematic but not sure were it is fiscally located so that I can check if it is good.
On the same note this coming fall I'm going to replace my coil and stainless steel covered spark plug wires as they are around 25-years old. I was wondering if anyone can recommend a high performance factory look alike spark plug wires that have the same outer stainless steel covering with the grounded ends. I also want to replace my coil with a high performance coil. I was told to run E3.40 spark plugs.
Any help or recommendations are appreciated.
Save your money. But, if you must put an aftermarket "high performance" coil on your engine, keep the nearly 50 year old stock Delco Remy coil in the compartment behind the seats. You're replacing a stone reliable stock component with a questionable durability part, and having the stock coil within easy reach might come in handy some day.
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Check for the link down by the starter. I dont see it on the diagram I looked at. There should be 2 power sources to the coil. One during cranking ( key held in start position) and a seperate for when you release the key (run/ on position). Is there 2 wires on your motor? Check for power with the key on. If you have power then its just the wire from the starter to the coil.
1970 big block 454 engine.
I lost the 12-volts feeding the coil and was wondering if anyone know ware the fussable link is located? I see it on my wiring schematic but not sure were it is fiscally located so that I can check if it is good.
On the same note this coming fall I'm going to replace my coil and stainless steel covered spark plug wires as they are around 25-years old. I was wondering if anyone can recommend a high performance factory look alike spark plug wires that have the same outer stainless steel covering with the grounded ends. I also want to replace my coil with a high performance coil. I was told to run E3.40 spark plugs.
Any help or recommendations are appreciated.
Skip the E3 plugs as well....I use NGK standard V-Power but AC Delco and Autolite are still very popular.
1970 big block 454 engine.
On the same note this coming fall I'm going to replace my coil and stainless steel covered spark plug wires as they are around 25-years old. I was wondering if anyone can recommend a high performance factory look alike spark plug wires that have the same outer stainless steel covering with the grounded ends..
I just replaced my plug wires with a set from Lectric limited. Perfect fit, comes with documentation identifying which wire goes to what cylinder. Some wires are the same length but the length of the shield terminations were different. Overall a better fit than the wires I bought from the dealer in 1992. https://www.lectriclimited.com/vehic...del/65?cat=747
I'm not sure whether you can run a higher voltage coil with the factory wires, seem to recall a note about this.
Check out their video on plug wires.
Last edited by BBCorv70; Aug 10, 2019 at 09:35 AM.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by BBCorv70
I just replaced my plug wires with a set from Lectric limited. Perfect fit, comes with documentation identifying which wire goes to what cylinder. Some wires are the same length but the length of the shield terminations were different. Overall a better fit than the wires I bought from the dealer in 1992. https://www.lectriclimited.com/vehic...del/65?cat=747
I'm not sure whether you can run a higher voltage coil with the factory wires, seem to recall a note about this.
Check out their video on plug wires.
The plug gap and cylinder pressure determines the secondary voltage of the system. The coil determines the current/energy levels.
The plug gap and cylinder pressure determines the secondary voltage of the system. The coil determines the current/energy levels.
Lectric Limited states "These wires are made as-original and are not intended to be used with an aftermarket high-performance coil or high-performance
ignition system (i.e. MSD ignition system). Use of such may reduce the life expectancy of these wires and will void your warranty".
It's possible these wires aren't able to withstand higher currents over time?
Just wanted to pass on the warning before purchase, or at least check with the vendor.
Last edited by BBCorv70; Aug 11, 2019 at 01:55 PM.
Make sure your ballast resistor hasn’t slid in its bracket and is shorting a post out on the bracket
Fusible link lines not terribly difficult to find! Unhook the 12 volt battery connection and do conductivity (ohms resistance checks) from point to point with a multimeter! You are looking for an open! Some things have relays and when not powered, they may read open! I doubt it is a fusible link!
Last edited by TCracingCA; Aug 12, 2019 at 10:51 AM.
Make sure your ballast resistor hasn’t slid in its bracket and is shorting a post out on the bracket
Fusible link lines not terribly difficult to find! Unhook the 12 volt battery connection and do conductivity (ohms resistance checks) from point to point with a multimeter! You are looking for an open! Some things have relays and when not powered, they may read open! I doubt it is a fusible link!
There is no ballast resistor on a 70. It is a resistance wire that comes from the fuse box and is joined at the coil by a 12v wire that comes from the starter which provides a full 12v for starting purposes only. Check the resistor wire (positive at the coil terminal) for voltage with the ign switch in the on position.
Last edited by CanadaGrant; Aug 13, 2019 at 12:29 AM.
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