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So I think I am finally taking the leap and getting my 76 painted. It has the original paint and really needs it. The thing that has always bothered me from the first day I bought it is the rear bumper. I know it isn't the original bumper as previous owner told me it rotted out. The current bumper on the current car is really wavy and doesn't align with the car. It almost looks like it is missing the hardware to hold its shape. I believe it is a rubber bumper (could be a urethane but definitely not fiberglass). What do you think? Should I use filler during the paint job or buy some hardware? I plan on spending a fair amount to get the the paint-job done right so I I am curious what others have done.
Looks like it's been tightened up while being forced into the position , so now it is stressed between the bolts. Not sure how to explain it another way. I have seen them like that before , you could try loosening all the bolts and see if it relaxes . Or buy a good fibreglass one and fit it up before painting.
I have a 78 with the same issues, almost in the exact same places. As Bazza siad it appears to be from over tightening at certain places to keep in aligned. That ends up causing more problems than it solves IMO. I am going the fiberglass root when I get to that point in my build. I can think of no reason not to. Even if the urethane bumper gets a 5mph hit, the point will probably crack. Go for the fiberglass.
Spending money on paint, get a glass rear bumper. Mebbe even consider the nicer looking 80-82 style.
That's what I have on my 76, but it does come with problems. Some of the inside bumpers will have to go and there is no place to mount the stock license plate light. I solved that problem with one like this. https://www.ebay.com/itm/CHROMED-ALU...QAAOSwARZXkmr3
Looks like it's been tightened up while being forced into the position , so now it is stressed between the bolts. Not sure how to explain it another way. I have seen them like that before , you could try loosening all the bolts and see if it relaxes . Or buy a good fibreglass one and fit it up before painting.
Talked to my painter and he highly recommended a fiberglass one. Anyone have a recommended seller for good fiberglass bumpers? There are so many sellers out there.
Talked to my painter and he highly recommended a fiberglass one. Anyone have a recommended seller for good fiberglass bumpers? There are so many sellers out there.
We only install the flexy glass covers in our shop.... and it's pretty much the only bumper we sell.
You are also missing the rear emblem and 76 head an early and late design.
1976 early cars had the rear emblem recessed in the cover and was a shorter emblem. 1976 late bumpers had a flat emblem and it as larger than the early design.
1976 early cars had the rear emblem recessed in the cover and was a shorter emblem. 1976 late bumpers had a flat emblem and it as larger than the early design.
The problem with that is rolling changes in one area may not have taken a change at the same time as the other. The fan shroud and radiator supports were different early and late. On the cover though it would really be at your desecration since I don't think the car is 100 percent original. Also mentioned above, the rear 1980-1982 rear cover will bolt right up to the car but you'll have to make a few changes in how the lamps mount (which is really not that hard either).
Honestly if the paint truly is original you should not paint the car.
I know you believe it needs to be painted, however original paint is only original once.
Lacquer is EASILY touched up, and black lacquer is one of the easiest colors to work - if the car is original black paint or even dark blue pick out the worst area of paint checking or damage and post a photo.
I have been correcting cosmetic issues with original paint for 30+ years and have worked on original paint cars from the 1920's and 1930's. - 40 year old GM lacquers don't hold up half as well as 80 year old FORD enamel from the 30's... however unless the paint is literally falling off your money is much better spent elsewhere. - you could touch up a few places and polish the entire car for less than 2500.
Honestly if the paint truly is original you should not paint the car.
I know you believe it needs to be painted, however original paint is only original once.
Lacquer is EASILY touched up, and black lacquer is one of the easiest colors to work - if the car is original black paint or even dark blue pick out the worst area of paint checking or damage and post a photo.
I have been correcting cosmetic issues with original paint for 30+ years and have worked on original paint cars from the 1920's and 1930's. - 40 year old GM lacquers don't hold up half as well as 80 year old FORD enamel from the 30's... however unless the paint is literally falling off your money is much better spent elsewhere. - you could touch up a few places and polish the entire car for less than 2500.
Unfortunately it has been buffed and polished so many times that it is down to primer in a lot of areas. I have thought about this but I just have ran into a deal where I can't turn down the opportunity to get fresh black paint on it.
1976 early cars had the rear emblem recessed in the cover and was a shorter emblem. 1976 late bumpers had a flat emblem and it as larger than the early design.
Honestly if the paint truly is original you should not paint the car.
I know you believe it needs to be painted, however original paint is only original once.
Lacquer is EASILY touched up, and black lacquer is one of the easiest colors to work - if the car is original black paint or even dark blue pick out the worst area of paint checking or damage and post a photo.
I have been correcting cosmetic issues with original paint for 30+ years and have worked on original paint cars from the 1920's and 1930's. - 40 year old GM lacquers don't hold up half as well as 80 year old FORD enamel from the 30's... however unless the paint is literally falling off your money is much better spent elsewhere. - you could touch up a few places and polish the entire car for less than 2500.
So you think OLD ORIGINAL paint is somehow better than new paint, even if painted the same color.
IMO: You purists are unbelievable.
And should he also replace those bubble tail lights, and anything else that's not original?
Get a fiberglass flex fit bumper. With a bit of body line work it will look better than any urethane bumper and be straight for a long time, the life of the car if it isn’t hit.
I put one on the rear of my 76 and it is way better than the new urethane bumper on the front that was put in prior to the last paint job. The front bumper had waves and even cracked the paint with a very light bump. Looked wavy as soon as I got it out from paint. Just got worse.
Last edited by Corvettedave02; Nov 11, 2019 at 08:00 PM.
There has been a lot of discussion, Flexiglass vs regular fiberglass covers, here on the forum. If you are paying a shop to do the work, let them use the bumper they are most familiar with. I talked with one of the few area shops that do classic work. They won't install the flexible bumpers. You are trusting the shop for a first class paint job, go with their bumper choice.
There has been a lot of discussion, Flexiglass vs regular fiberglass covers, here on the forum. If you are paying a shop to do the work, let them use the bumper they are most familiar with. I talked with one of the few area shops that do classic work. They won't install the flexible bumpers. You are trusting the shop for a first class paint job, go with their bumper choice.
I have a family friend that is a professional and really good painter. He is teaching me how to do the prep and taping before he shoots it. Just started sanding today with 80 Grit. I have a special paint code car...so whether it was painted at the factory or just came primered then painted somewhere else, the black paint is really thick. We are using Spies (color: Blue Black) as he said it is top of the line. Long story short, he has no preference on bumper type.
Finally got the rear bumper off. Figured out why it was wavy and warped. There is absolutely no retainer in the bumper. Whoever replaced the bumper forgot to put the metal retainers in. Guess I will be buying those also.
Below is the work so far. It is amazing how much easier sanding is with the professional orbital sander
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Painting 76 - Read Bumper Question
