Valve cover questions
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 252
Likes: 72
From: South of Phoenix Arizona, but North of no-where.
Valve cover questions
Hi guys:
while moving into the engine room of the beast I decided to tackle the leaky valve covers while I had the alternator and A/c units off. I see a previous Bubba rammed the T bolts down so hard he bent the cross bar handles. Inside there was no gasket just about a pint of silicone goop spread everywhere, and obviously the covers still leaked.
I cleaned the silicone off and made sure there was no debris inside.
It was suggested I use the (rather expensive) rubber-steel-rubber gaskets with the re-enforcing plates under each T handle as being much better than cork or silicone.
looks good and lines up nice but the threaded part of the T handles are too short.
I removed each T handle stud with a double nut and see they would be plenty long if not driven in so far up into the handle.
any suggestions on getting the studs to stay at a good length in the handle ???
Used the double nut method to remove the stud
Last edited by Redbirdman; Aug 18, 2019 at 05:30 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
As I recall, places like Summit had more than one length Valve Cover Stud Kits. Some people use stamped steel (thin) covers. Others use cast aluminum (thick) covers.
The cast ones are close to a half inch thicker, hence will need longer studs. I had to switch mine out when I purchased the cast covers.
Really like them though. Makes lining up the bolt hole s-o-o-o-o-o- much easier.
The cast ones are close to a half inch thicker, hence will need longer studs. I had to switch mine out when I purchased the cast covers.
Really like them though. Makes lining up the bolt hole s-o-o-o-o-o- much easier.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Aug 18, 2019 at 07:22 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 11,953
Likes: 4,510
From: Virginia
The T-handles are meant to save you time (which they don't, even if you don't count the time on the Forum 
). Any reason not to just use the correct length bolts, perhaps with hex heads (you can use a T-handle allen key to remove them).
Otherwise, I thought the studs were s'posed to stay in the heads. That's why they are called studs, and likely have a flat for a screwdriver, or a hex tool, built into them.
). Any reason not to just use the correct length bolts, perhaps with hex heads (you can use a T-handle allen key to remove them).Otherwise, I thought the studs were s'posed to stay in the heads. That's why they are called studs, and likely have a flat for a screwdriver, or a hex tool, built into them.
Last edited by Bikespace; Aug 19, 2019 at 07:48 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Western NY
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 252
Likes: 72
From: South of Phoenix Arizona, but North of no-where.
Thanks all!
I believe you are right about the studs remaining in the head. When I cleaned the two up I removed (that were too short otherwise) I found there was a pre-made slot in them and when driven into the head they bottom out and leave just the right amount standing out. I suspect though, that each time you remove a Tee handle a stud may come out with the Tee handle and then run itself up further into the handle the next time someone installs them. Which is probably what happened to these on my freshly acquired C3.
Going back to the need for Tee handles : I simply reminisced over the time warp back to my brand new 1961 C1 and recall how many times I had to remove the covers to replace a squished push rod or adjust the valves and assumed that was the reason for Tee handles, besides looking super macho, of which I am certainly not anymore ;>(
So, as long as I can remove a cover straight up over the studs that seems to be the best way to go.
thank you all for the quick response.....
I believe you are right about the studs remaining in the head. When I cleaned the two up I removed (that were too short otherwise) I found there was a pre-made slot in them and when driven into the head they bottom out and leave just the right amount standing out. I suspect though, that each time you remove a Tee handle a stud may come out with the Tee handle and then run itself up further into the handle the next time someone installs them. Which is probably what happened to these on my freshly acquired C3.
Going back to the need for Tee handles : I simply reminisced over the time warp back to my brand new 1961 C1 and recall how many times I had to remove the covers to replace a squished push rod or adjust the valves and assumed that was the reason for Tee handles, besides looking super macho, of which I am certainly not anymore ;>(
So, as long as I can remove a cover straight up over the studs that seems to be the best way to go.
thank you all for the quick response.....
Last edited by Redbirdman; Aug 19, 2019 at 06:55 PM.
