Help needed with valuation
I am a C3 newbie with my knowledge limited to online research. I am looking at buying my first C3 from a private seller and would appreciate any thoughts from more experienced members on the price being asked.
The car is a 1970 convertible. The Daytona Yellow paint job is new and looks very high quality with no discernible faults. The leather interior is also new and looks almost faultless. Tires are new, wheels look new, the rag top is new and the car has the optional hardtop in excellent condition. Aesthetically the car looks sharp and very original. Brakes are new and mechanically the car seems hard to fault. It drives like a new car. The car wins 2 and 3rd places in car shows in Georgia.
The motor is a new 350 crate engine that has been mildly built and makes about 425HP (owner claim). There is also a new 5 speed Tremec transmission.
The following are known problems:
1. Speedo not geared correctly with the new transmission
2. Tacho not wired to the new motor
3. Radio does not work
4. Vacuum canister leaks and does not actuate lights or wiper panel (they actuate when connected straight to the carby)
5. The brake power booster is original and probably needs replacing
Hagertys valuation tools put the car at about $28K retail based on the "Good" rating. However the Hagerty rating is not clear about the impact of the non-original motor and transmission and its that aspect that worries me. I personally don't care that it isn't numbers matching and has a more modern tranny but I don't want to pay too much.
The seller wants $28,500. Is that a fair retail price?
Opinions or clarifying questions welcome.




My main problem with Hagarty’s valuations is there no calculation for originality which kinda blows the whole system up. The car you describe so far should take a deduction for the engine. Are the paint / interior colors the same as on the trim tag?
What about rust? Prior body repairs? Paperwork? Is the title clean?
The vacuum system is simple to sort out with a Mity-Vac and a little time.
On the other hand, that sounds like a decent deal. New paint? 5 speed? New motor? Hey, that could easily be worth $20K alone.
Don't you hate decisions?
qIf it’s not a rust bucket the price is very fair for the work that was done.
You will always find the guy without pictures, location and description tell you he bought his car for less (anybody can say that to bust your bubble)
These low ball prices are not reflective of today’s market for a good Chromebumper Corvette as sellers are not that out of touch with what they have.





I looked at maybe 30 or more before I settled on the one I bought. I wanted one that didn’t need anything and I could drive as if it were a daily drive although it’s not. Don’t rush... Buy what fits your needs and abilities to maintain it. Although it’s great to have a new motor and transmission it is a negative when it comes time to sell it, just sayin’
Last edited by derekderek; Sep 8, 2019 at 06:01 AM.
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Brian
My main problem with Hagarty’s valuations is there no calculation for originality which kinda blows the whole system up. The car you describe so far should take a deduction for the engine. Are the paint / interior colors the same as on the trim tag?
What about rust? Prior body repairs? Paperwork? Is the title clean?
On face value it would seem obvious that a non-original car is worth less but keep in mind this is a $28K car not an $80K car and is likely appealing to a different market. A serious classic car collector who covets origality is likely not looking at this car. Someone like me who is not really a collector but sees value in the fact that all the work is done and the car has a reliable drive train that drives well and isn't going to let me down on a weekend tour.
What I don't know is how many people are there like me versus the collector mindset when it comes time to sell.
On the other hand, that sounds like a decent deal. New paint? 5 speed? New motor? Hey, that could easily be worth $20K alone.
Don't you hate decisions?

qIf it’s not a rust bucket the price is very fair for the work that was done.
You will always find the guy without pictures, location and description tell you he bought his car for less (anybody can say that to bust your bubble)
These low ball prices are not reflective of today’s market for a good Chromebumper Corvette as sellers are not that out of touch with what they have.
$8K - Completely unrestored '70 Convertible
$10K - Professional paint and body work
$4K - Crate motor with a light "build"
$2K - TREMEC Transmission
$3K - Rag top, seats, carpets etc.
$1K - Tires
Its a $28K investment which ever way you look at it. The only concern I have is that money spent doesn't necessarily equal value on the market when you sell - or does it?
I looked at maybe 30 or more before I settled on the one I bought. I wanted one that didn’t need anything and I could drive as if it were a daily drive although it’s not. Don’t rush... Buy what fits your needs and abilities to maintain it. Although it’s great to have a new motor and transmission it is a negative when it comes time to sell it, just sayin’
Brian
On the other hand, that sounds like a decent deal. New paint? 5 speed? New motor? Hey, that could easily be worth $20K alone.
Don't you hate decisions?

Given the the new paint, engine, transmission, cost at least $20k it would seem highly unlikely a seller would settle for low 20's unless they are forced to sell.It happens, buyers get a bargain if the seller is forced to sell. I say new paint alone holds quite a bit of value, not going to get a decent paint job for less than $10K, often more, plus an extended period of time waiting to get the car back.
I would first consider condition, these cars are expensive to fix. If numbers are important to you, pass on this one, you won't be happy for long, but you'll pay 20% or more over the price of a NOM to get numbers.
I doubt you'll find many chrome bumper corvettes with quality new paint, new engine, new transmission, original appearance, no rust issues, for high teens or even low twenties, doesn't make economic sense.
You may find some in upper teens or low twenties with issues you figure you'll fix, underestimate the cost of repairs, hidden problems.
Does this car speak to you, what you're looking for?
IMO, maybe mid 20's given the new paint, engine, and 5 speed.
Sounds like a fun car to drive.











