look at the base of the cone
I am having a terrible time figuring out this proportioning valve leave, The body was off when I assembled all the brake lines and when the time came I bled the brakes and the bottom crossover line began leaking like crazy. The line was stainless, I cranked and cranked and could not stop the leak. Eventually I took that line off and replaced it with a pre bent steel line. Still leaking, Ordered a new prop valve and assembled everything with a nickel copper line, still leaking. So, The picture posted in what I am dealing with . The brass prop valve block is solid in all the connections except for the top and bottom. The top line is the rear line, the bottom line is the cross over line that goes to the passenger side brakes. After about 10 hours of frustrating and figuring out that every other line I install is fine. So why is this the only line that is leaking?. The leak is coming from the threads of the fitting and leaks like crazy. Looking closely there is a gap at the base of the cone. I am wondering if that gap is causing my leak, and do they make any straight brass block? or what am I doing wrong? Thanks in advance.

 

Thanks for the reply. I am still wondering why there is gap inside of the fitting tho. The picture is of the block I screwed up by wrenching it down with the stainless. As a precaution I bought a new block and wanted to start fresh. Im thinking that there is a piston inside of there and that thing slides? I dont know much about prop valves but It seems like the only logical place where my leak can be. I was wondering if there was a delete option where I can get a solid brass block that does not have a valve in it. If not I woll try those conical washers. Thank you!

 

That picture shows the block is solid brass inside of the cone. this line is leak free

 

If you look down inside this cone there is a gap all the way around like that cone is a piston that moves...this is the one that leaks.. I think my leak is coming from around there and leaking on the threads.

 

69'

 

That prop valve looks used, beaten and damaged inside. I know they are pricey, but maybe its time for . . . . .

If you click on my profile and find my photo album, it shows the internals of a prop valve if that helps you.

From what I gather on this forum is, that SS lines are awful stuff to work with. Are seldom worth the cost. And can be a sob to get a decent, non-leaking flare.

 

The reason for the gap is because the cone you are looking at is a separate pressed in piece. The switch piston is installed, then the insert is pressed in. When you install the brake tube, make sure it is square with the face of the valve body. Also, try just a dab of anti seize on the tube nut thread to reduce friction and get all the torque to the tube.