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I’ve got a few questions regarding the installation of my new waterneck and thermostat (77, L48, automatic, Performer 2101 intake, stock heads, stock radiator, no emission equipment):
1. Can I install these ARP bolts for the water neck without washers, or isn’t that a good idea? I ask this because my bolts are a little too short when I use the washers. (ARP 430-7401)
2. I will use the Fel-Pro Duralast 35062 gasket for the waterneck. Which side of the gasket goes where? (up and down)
3. The Fel-Pro Duralast 35062 gasket sticks out on certain places (see picture) on the outside.
Also the diameter of the gasket hole is about 2 mm smaller then the waterneck.
Do you guys trim the gasket on the outside and inside to get a ‘perfect’ fit, or isn’t that a big deal? Will it obstruct the fluid flow?
Maybe it’s better to leave the gasket as it is?
4. I’ve got a two thermostats laying around: an ‘old’ original one (I think) and new one I got with the Performer intake (see pics). Can you guys see if the old one is the original one? (see number on the picture)
The box of the new one states: 195 °F
Is this the correct thermostat to use, or is an 160 °F or 180 °F better?
Or won’t these different specifications make any difference on cooling, performance, …
5. Regarding the space that is not covered by the intake gasket. This surface will rust withing a couple of months. Painting between the intake and valves covers will be a mess…
Can I smear some grease (must be easy to remove in the future) in this area to prevent rust?
There will be some experts on here soon telling you to pitch the chrome housing. Nonsense. You just have to know how to tweek it. Chrome is awful at sealing anything. So, if you have a belt sander, remove or roughen up the bottom of the housing.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
See, I have the same housing on the left. No leaks.
That temperature thermo you selected is for emissions crap, which you have removed. I prefer to start cooling a little soon at 180* or even 160*. (My max is 200*). And its good practice to drill two 1/8" holes in the thermo for a by-pass / air pocket remover.
The gasket you chose should not interfere with the intakes port size. Somethings not right there. (I too have the Eddy 2101 but use a Mr.Gasket silicone unit)
Now the bolts. ARPs are top of the line. Unfortunately, if you want just one bolt, they come in packs of five. Rather pricey with shpg.
Have you tried Summit and search specifically "water-neck bolts" SBC, ARP?
Rust issue? Don't worry about it. There is just enough oil mist to keep things rust free.
And everything looks real good. Nice job !!!!!
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Sep 21, 2019 at 07:28 PM.
There will be some experts on here soon telling you to pitch the chrome housing. Nonsense. You just have to know how to tweek it. Chrome is awful at sealing anything. So, if you have a belt sander, remove or roughen up the bottom of the housing.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
See, I have the same housing on the left. No leaks.
That temperature thermo you selected is for emissions crap, which you have removed. I prefer to start cooling a little soon at 180* or even 160*. (My max is 200*). And its good practice to drill two 1/8" holes in the thermo for a by-pass / air pocket remover.
The gasket you chose should not interfere with the intakes port size. Somethings not right there. (I too have the Eddy 2101 but use a Mr.Gasket silicone unit)
Now the bolts. ARPs are top of the line. Unfortunately, if you want just one bolt, they come in packs of five. Rather pricey with shpg.
Have you tried Summit and search specifically "water-neck bolts" SBC, ARP?
Rust issue? Don't worry about it. There is just enough oil mist to keep things rust free.
And everything looks real good. Nice job !!!!!
Thank you for the compliment!
- I already sanded the underside to make it more rough. (previous thread)
- I will post some pictures of the gasket fitment later today.
- The length of the ARP bolts (picture) is good when used without washers.... but is it good to use them without washers?
I will have to find another thermo then... What are other quality brands besides Stant?
Last edited by Novusuhu; Sep 21, 2019 at 08:24 PM.
Nothing wrong with the brand. I was just saying that it doesn't even think about cooling until 195* Too hot for me.
I forgot you are not in the U.S. so getting parts is more difficult. However, you don't need washers. You have bolts with washer built in.
Don't forget thread sealant on the bolts where it goes into the water jacket.
One other thing. On the housings neck, you will have to rough that up too to get a good seal with the Rad Hose. I removed the chrome about an inch in from the end. Then I smeared some Permatex Blue on the neck, twist the hose on, clamp.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Sep 21, 2019 at 09:07 PM.
- I already sanded the underside to make it more rough. (previous thread)
- I will post some pictures of the gasket fitment later today.
- The length of the ARP bolts (picture) is good when used without washers.... but is it good to use them without washers?
I will have to find another thermo then... What are other quality brands besides Stant?
I have a Milodon high-flow 180 degree thermostat in my car. I also used the GM 10108470 aluminum waterneck ($5- at Jegs!) and a Fel-Pro 2022 reusable gasket that seals without RTV. To make this setup work, I had to use different bolts from the hardware store. My intake is aluminum, so getting the torque correct was important, so I used washers.
I have a Milodon high-flow 180 degree thermostat in my car. I also used the GM 10108470 aluminum waterneck ($5- at Jegs!) and a Fel-Pro 2022 reusable gasket that seals without RTV. To make this setup work, I had to use different bolts from the hardware store. My intake is aluminum, so getting the torque correct was important, so I used washers.
Regarding the gasket:
Looks this OK? It seems that the gasket fits the thermostat nice (I think).
The passage hole of the gasket is a little smaller compaired to the waterneck itself, but maybe that's not so important?
Which side of the gasket has to face the waterneck and which side the intake?
Last edited by Novusuhu; Sep 22, 2019 at 03:30 PM.
Thermal efficiency conventions suggest higher coolant temps are more efficient ...
... not to exceed the oil's max operating range or to facilitate pre-ignition.
race cars' cooling systems often run both higher temps AND pressures.
today's cars are more efficient than those of even 10 years ago; much less 50 ... and run higher temps as well.
If you have good radiator, good parts, good oil, good control of timing & fuel ... run higher temps.
I will tell you right now Novusuhu, that gasket is not the best choice for a chrome waterneck. You will end up using so much sealant that its not worth the effort.
And I also know you are limited to parts at your location. But try to find a silicone gasket. Instead of a $2 fiber unit the silicones are around $20+ but worth every dollar.
The fiber gasket is fine for cast iron intakes & cast iron waternecks. Or alike metals. Same expansion / contraction rates.
But with your aluminum and maybe steel, you need something better.
I will tell you right now Novusuhu, that gasket is not the best choice for a chrome waterneck. You will end up using so much sealant that its not worth the effort.
And I also know you are limited to parts at your location. But try to find a silicone gasket. Instead of a $2 fiber unit the silicones are around $20+ but worth every dollar.
The fiber gasket is fine for cast iron intakes & cast iron waternecks. Or alike metals. Same expansion / contraction rates.
But with your aluminum and maybe steel, you need something better.
I will try with a very thin layer of sealant on both sides of the gasket. I will let you know if it was a succes or not.
Do you know which side is the top and bottom of the gasket? (striped and plain side)
What is the torque spec for the stainless bolts and the aluminum manifold threads for the waterneck?
Last edited by Novusuhu; Sep 22, 2019 at 08:15 PM.
What is the torque spec for the stainless bolts and the aluminum manifold threads for the waterneck?
I've got a book called 'Rebuilding the small-block Chevy (by Larry Schreib & Larry Atherton)'.
It says to torque the waterneck bolts at 30 ft. lbs.
Would that be good with the aluminum intake or overkill?
I believe that book is referring to cast iron Intake & cast iron Waterneck. For your aluminum, maybe 25. I never use a torque wrench on half that stuff. You just get a feel for it and snug it hard. Alternate back & forth on the bolts until goop oozes out. Call it good.
I am a firm believer that torque wrenches snap more bolts trying not to snap bolts. They are too big and too much leverage for little fasteners.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Sep 23, 2019 at 07:51 PM.
I suggest this ... you look up edelbrock spec for intake bolts ... that may be about right.
Find yourself a free download of "Machinery's Handbook" ... standard engineering desk reference for generations.
Anything you might ever want to know about threads is in thereand much more!
There are standard torques for common thread sizes. They are for iron or steel female threads. Found a chart. 3/8-16. 30 ft lb in iron. 20 ft lb in aluminum. The gasket is smaller inside dia to act as a retainer to keep thermostat seated in the recess in the intake.
There are standard torques for common thread sizes. They are for iron or steel female threads. Found a chart. 3/8-16. 30 ft lb in iron. 20 ft lb in aluminum. The gasket is smaller inside dia to act as a retainer to keep thermostat seated in the recess in the intake.
Do you know which side of the gasket should be facing the intake and which side the waterneck base?
The gasket has a light blue side with stripes and a light blue side without the stripes.
Waterneck questions
