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Window scratch removal vs new windows. I cleaned and polished one window. Way better but there are hundreds of scratches in it. What do you guys think?
I would rather have aftermarket windows than originals that are totally scratched but for 700 dollars I think I just keep windows down which mine are usually anyways.
That looks pretty bad in the sunlight. Is that white puck the polishing agent? Supposedly if your fingernail catches it can't be removed, otherwise with a buffing wheel and rouge or something like that you've got a shot at it. Worth a try.
I used cerium oxide paste on both windows. Tons or time and still hundreds of scratches going vertical. Hard to see them in the 2nd set of pics. The horizontal line is where the felts were I think? Can’t feel anything with my fingernail but they won’t come out.
these windows were bad when I bought it and I drove it as was for several years probably putting more scratches in. Much of the window hardware was a mess. Bumpers missing, bolts missing etc. can’t believe they still worked at all. Everything will be brand new EXCEPT the windows if I do t replace them. It’s now or never though. I never want to deal with these doors again. Leaning toward buying the windows...
Last edited by Corvettedave02; Oct 27, 2019 at 06:21 PM.
All I know.
A friend has a Jag E type that had the center wiper arm gouge the glass. He called some guy out here, he spent the day with various pads and rouges and made it so you cannot tell. $300 I think.
SO, it can be repaired, I just do not know who/how.
Just keep in mind which ever way you go, Polish the scratches out or new , you still need to deal with what caused the deep scratches in the first place. Can you say more money to spend?
Literally everything in the doors is replaced and new. new locks, handles, regulator assemblies, motors, wheels, stops, felts, bolts, weather stripping, strike bolts, switches, lock assemblies, handle assemblies etc. If I'm careful installing the windows they should be safe once in and since the doors are off and everything is apart and can reassemble on a table if needed. repainting the door interior side as well as the jams as well. The only thing that won't look new will be the windows if I don't buy new ones, ugg.
Last edited by Corvettedave02; Oct 27, 2019 at 08:21 PM.
Try different grades of Jeweler's Rouge....I removed scratches from stainless steel with the stuff and a high speed 20,000 rpm electric disc sander.....NO SANDING DISC WAS ATTACHED TO THE RUBBER DISC PAD......DISC WAS COVERD WITH THICK COTTON PADDING AND ROUGE WAS APPLIED!
I went with new windows but originals are in the basement if ever there comes a day.
New ones did not fit though. I think the leading edge of the window was the worst. Had to adjust pretty much everything that can be adjusted and then reshape the A pillar weatherstrip retainer a tad.
But I still like looking at them better than the scratched ones.
I have found that most light scratches can be polished out with a lot of work as stated above. What usually happens is in those heavily worked areas there will be a distortion as you look through the glass. Not a big deal on the side glass unless its in the view of the rear view mirror
The windows were also on sale so I ordered them. Tinted with no date stamp for $350 ($35 shipping). Painful but I don’t want t deal with these doors again, lol.
Last edited by Corvettedave02; Oct 28, 2019 at 12:06 PM.
Reproduction LOF glass is available from Auto City Classics. List price for 68-82 Corvette door glass, tinted with LOF logo, lists for $119, and includes the "Astro Ventilation" script on 68-74 glass. Date coding is available for an additional fee.
Poke around the parts section here sure youll find decent used.
That stuff drives me nuts just bought all new stuff love it. is a date code that important?
C3 Windows. Scratches vs new?
