When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
2025 c3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2025 C4 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2025 C8 Stingray of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
I bought a Chevrolet 1953 thru 1982 Corvette Parts and illustration Manual, used on Ebay for $90 Unlike the AIMs, it provides faster sizes. I found I can buy most of the fasteners at Home Depot, on line, or at a good hardware store for a substantial amount less than from the the vendors, especially when you include shipping on a small order. Since a have a 66, 68 , 71 and an 82, I have easily saved the cost of the manual.
I bought a Chevrolet 1953 thru 1982 Corvette Parts and illustration Manual, used on Ebay for $90 Unlike the AIMs, it provides faster sizes. I found I can buy most of the fasteners at Home Depot, on line, or at a good hardware store for a substantial amount less than from the the vendors, especially when you include shipping on a small order. Since a have a 66, 68 , 71 and an 82, I have easily saved the cost of the manual.
They won't have the right markings on the heads if that's ok.
If you have a bench grinder, put a wire brush wheel on one side. The wires are softer metal than the bolts and will remove rust and dirt. They will also polish the metal parts if you brush them for a longer time than just enough for cleaning.
If you have an AIM all the torque values are listed.
got one.
Thanks for all the info.
80 percent of my frame has been put back together. ( trailing arms were purchase full complete and diff the same). I have the Ta's and diff on , new x member, fuel lines , brake lines ( and brakes), Suspension parts and steering ( about to install borg box this weekend), are just done up medium atm. Because i read that i should not tighen up the bolts until the body is back on. Correct?
Going to use AIM to get settings on how tight.
Also should i lock tight anything? ( only talking frame stuff )
I don't know what your goals are for your resto but I typically go down to NAPA and peruse their bolt catalog. My local store still has a hard copy. I buy the 5/16" black bolts with the integral washer. You can buy them in quantities of 25. Cheaper than the plastic bags of 10. Same for 3/8". I hate using old bolts or the typical chain hardware store bolts.
Otherwise under the car away from prying eyes all grade 8 from Fleet Farm. Bought by the pound in various sizes and lengths. Fastenal also has a great online bolt catalog.
The bad part about using a wire wheel on a bolt is that all the original finish will be wire brushed off so now it will rust. If you paint them to keep them from rusting as soon as you tighten them the paint cracks.
Having said the above I believe Eastwood offers a kit to "re-black" original bolts after they have been cleaned.
Some good options . Fleetfarm blocked because not in USA. ( live in australia ) Fastenal i see the catalog. With the wire brush, i thought so myself.
Now i will go through the bolts when i am putting the parts back on. Sonic clean, then see if i need a new one.
For those that clean up the old nuts and bolts - do you apply a top coating? I assume the nuts/bolts will quickly get corroded again without protection?
For those that clean up the old nuts and bolts - do you apply a top coating? I assume the nuts/bolts will quickly get corroded again without protection?
No Fleet Farms in Aussies world? That's just not right. As we say in MN if they sold beer we would not need to shop any where else.
Sounds like a great business opportunity.