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Old Nov 13, 2019 | 11:51 PM
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Default Bolts and nutts

I am putting together the front end of my 76, all parts are either soda then coated, or are new upgraded bits.

I have all the bolts and nuts from the tear down. I have tried to get new ones when i can find them on the sites but i cannot find them all.

So what if i want to use the older ones. What is the best way of preparing them to be used.
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Old Nov 14, 2019 | 06:11 AM
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I bought a rock tumbler from Harbor Freight. I throw some glass bead in there and let it vibrate for a day and they come out like new.
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Old Nov 14, 2019 | 06:47 AM
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Depends on whats wrong..if surface rust i use evaporust...then ultrasonic cleaner (one of the greatest clening tools)
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Old Nov 14, 2019 | 09:26 AM
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I bought a Chevrolet 1953 thru 1982 Corvette Parts and illustration Manual, used on Ebay for $90 Unlike the AIMs, it provides faster sizes. I found I can buy most of the fasteners at Home Depot, on line, or at a good hardware store for a substantial amount less than from the the vendors, especially when you include shipping on a small order. Since a have a 66, 68 , 71 and an 82, I have easily saved the cost of the manual.
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Old Nov 14, 2019 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by pltmgr
I bought a Chevrolet 1953 thru 1982 Corvette Parts and illustration Manual, used on Ebay for $90 Unlike the AIMs, it provides faster sizes. I found I can buy most of the fasteners at Home Depot, on line, or at a good hardware store for a substantial amount less than from the the vendors, especially when you include shipping on a small order. Since a have a 66, 68 , 71 and an 82, I have easily saved the cost of the manual.
They won't have the right markings on the heads if that's ok.
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Old Nov 19, 2019 | 10:21 PM
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Thanks for the info.

I didnt want to put a older bolt in when i could buy a newer one. ( thinking a newer one would be better)

I think most of my major (frame,) nuts are good just need cleaning.

Originally Posted by interpon
Depends on whats wrong..if surface rust i use evaporust...then ultrasonic cleaner (one of the greatest clening tools)
After doing that prep, evaporust and ultrasonic, do they need any coating before going back in?

Last edited by Dirk76; Nov 20, 2019 at 11:01 AM.
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Old Nov 20, 2019 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Dirk76

I didnt want to put a older bolt in when i could buy a newer one. ( thinking a newer one would be better)
The old bolts may be better than the new [china] bolts!
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Old Nov 20, 2019 | 08:47 PM
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Here's a handy PDF handbook of torque tables for fasteners of various sizes & grades

https://www.lawsonproducts.com/pdfs/...ue_Book_AD.pdf
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Old Nov 20, 2019 | 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Stev-o
The old bolts may be better than the new [china] bolts!
i forgot to include that
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Old Nov 20, 2019 | 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by jackson
Here's a handy PDF handbook of torque tables for fasteners of various sizes & grades

https://www.lawsonproducts.com/pdfs/...ue_Book_AD.pdf
If you have an AIM all the torque values are listed.
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Old Nov 20, 2019 | 11:27 PM
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If you have a bench grinder, put a wire brush wheel on one side. The wires are softer metal than the bolts and will remove rust and dirt. They will also polish the metal parts if you brush them for a longer time than just enough for cleaning.
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Old Nov 21, 2019 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by boat196
If you have an AIM all the torque values are listed.
got one.

Thanks for all the info.

80 percent of my frame has been put back together. ( trailing arms were purchase full complete and diff the same). I have the Ta's and diff on , new x member, fuel lines , brake lines ( and brakes), Suspension parts and steering ( about to install borg box this weekend), are just done up medium atm. Because i read that i should not tighen up the bolts until the body is back on. Correct?

Going to use AIM to get settings on how tight.

Also should i lock tight anything? ( only talking frame stuff )

Last edited by Dirk76; Nov 21, 2019 at 09:22 PM.
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Old Nov 22, 2019 | 05:54 PM
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Don't forget that the markings on a bolt head indicate their grade/strength.
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Old Nov 22, 2019 | 09:15 PM
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I don't know what your goals are for your resto but I typically go down to NAPA and peruse their bolt catalog. My local store still has a hard copy. I buy the 5/16" black bolts with the integral washer. You can buy them in quantities of 25. Cheaper than the plastic bags of 10. Same for 3/8". I hate using old bolts or the typical chain hardware store bolts.
Otherwise under the car away from prying eyes all grade 8 from Fleet Farm. Bought by the pound in various sizes and lengths. Fastenal also has a great online bolt catalog.
The bad part about using a wire wheel on a bolt is that all the original finish will be wire brushed off so now it will rust. If you paint them to keep them from rusting as soon as you tighten them the paint cracks.
Having said the above I believe Eastwood offers a kit to "re-black" original bolts after they have been cleaned.
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Old Nov 23, 2019 | 01:01 AM
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Some good options . Fleetfarm blocked because not in USA. ( live in australia ) Fastenal i see the catalog. With the wire brush, i thought so myself.
Now i will go through the bolts when i am putting the parts back on. Sonic clean, then see if i need a new one.

Well that is the plan ATM thanks

Last edited by Dirk76; Nov 23, 2019 at 01:01 AM.
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Old Nov 23, 2019 | 09:13 AM
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For those that clean up the old nuts and bolts - do you apply a top coating? I assume the nuts/bolts will quickly get corroded again without protection?
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Old Nov 23, 2019 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by jpatrick62
For those that clean up the old nuts and bolts - do you apply a top coating? I assume the nuts/bolts will quickly get corroded again without protection?
https://www.caswellplating.com/black-oxide-kits.html
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Old Nov 24, 2019 | 10:42 PM
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No Fleet Farms in Aussies world? That's just not right. As we say in MN if they sold beer we would not need to shop any where else.
Sounds like a great business opportunity.
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