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1980 ground wire issue?!?!

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Old Dec 18, 2019 | 12:56 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ntfday
If you really want to know the condition of the wire use a Wheatsone Bridge. If the battery is missing or dead you're SOL.
Why use that when a 10cent bulb and 2 minutes of work will tell you everything you need. I am sure everyone has that equipment in their shop. I have a shop at work full of test equipment, but I doubt this guy has anything like that in his shop. Remember we are trying to help him. Not sure why you would feel this post would help him?
If the battery is missing or dead, than I would start there. That is probably your issue.

Last edited by helomech; Dec 18, 2019 at 12:58 AM.
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Old Dec 18, 2019 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by helomech
Why use that when a 10cent bulb and 2 minutes of work will tell you everything you need. I am sure everyone has that equipment in their shop. I have a shop at work full of test equipment, but I doubt this guy has anything like that in his shop. Remember we are trying to help him. Not sure why you would feel this post would help him?
If the battery is missing or dead, than I would start there. That is probably your issue.

I hope he's able to figure out his problem using your method before this time next year. You would have lasted maybe 10 minutes on the DC-10 power crew that I ran.
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Old Dec 18, 2019 | 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by ntfday
I hope he's able to figure out his problem using your method before this time next year. You would have lasted maybe 10 minutes on the DC-10 power crew that I ran.
LMAO, you know nothing of me. I have worked on most models of aircraft. Left fixed wing because it was boring. Seriously you had no clue you could use a light bulb to track down a bad ground and you are going to act like you know all. That is some funny ****. Just goes to show you can't think outside the box. just repeating what you are taught. Wow you ran a power crew, call me impressed. I know a old avionics guy, that sounds a bit like you. He needs to retire also.
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Old Dec 18, 2019 | 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by ntfday
I hope he's able to figure out his problem using your method before this time next year. You would have lasted maybe 10 minutes on the DC-10 power crew that I ran.
I posted on here trying to give the guy some advice on how to do stuff with what he has. All you have done is try to act like you know stuff but offer zero real advice to this guy. Does it make you feel like a big man? Seriously why are you trying to turn this into a stupid childish pissing match. Give your advice, I can give mine and he can choose what to do. Stop trying to act like a child.
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Old Dec 18, 2019 | 12:57 PM
  #25  
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Something very similar to this is what we used to check continuity between plugs and by the time it reached you everything was in proper working order.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Southwire-4...UAAOSwFOVdX-lC
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Old Dec 18, 2019 | 01:01 PM
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Check the power wire going to your horn under the nose of the hood when it’s open. Mine got loose and developed a periodic partial short to the frame and drained my battery and blew fuses sporadically. Drove me insane until I found it. Mine is a 76, guessing yours is similar.

Last edited by Corvettedave02; Dec 18, 2019 at 01:02 PM.
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Old Dec 19, 2019 | 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by SwampeastMike
The courtesy lights should have +12V at all times at the contacts connected to the orange wires. Verify. The courtesy lights work by providing ground on the white wires. They have their own ground source (the door jambs via the switch bodies) so problems in the main cabin ground won't affect them. If you're getting +12V at the lamp sockets the next place to look is the solid state module that provides the turnoff delay. Remove the glove box (easy) and look to the right for an orange plastic box (it should be taped to the harness). Disconnect and jump the two white wires on the harness side of the connector and the lights should come on. If not verify that one of those white wires has connection to ground at all time. If not the problem lies between the door and headlamp switches and one of those wires. If one does have ground the problem is between the other white wire and the courtesy lamps.

The power locks also have their own ground source--a screw (one black wire leading to it) into the inner metal layer near the lower front corner of the passenger door. Obviously you have to remove the inner door panel to access
Unless the delay timer for the courtesy lamps has been bypassed then the grounding from the lamps is to the main instrument panel ground like everything else that's not working. Only exception to this is the power door looks as you have said. But unless they failed at they failed at the exact same time as everything else I would ignore them for now.

a bad wire or connection can be found with a meter, but you need to have a good meter and know what you are looking for and how to use it. Even then, often a test lamp is still easier
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