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Planning an engine/transmission swap some time after the first of the year. Curious about various clearance requirements when swapping the engine and so I have a couple of questions:
1) My shop is fairly narrow (about 15 feet wide) and has some things placed against the side walls. I know I'll need to pull the engine from the side. How much side clearance am I going to need to lift the engine and maneuver it?
2) I need to purchase an engine hoist. Prefer a folding model so I can more easily stow it for future use. How much lift height do I need? I have a couple of choices I can pick up locally.
This Strongway at Northern Tool: Link The Strongway has a lift height of just over 82".
This Torin Big Red at Tractor Supply: Link The Torin has a lift height of 89".
Summit has a couple of choices where the lift height is in the 93 - 96" range but those are more expensive. Although I do like what I've read about this Ranger: Link
I've forgotten where I saw it but I also found one hoist with a lift height of around 102".
If any of these will work, is there any reason other than lift height to choose one over the other? Any other recommendations? Not looking for a one and done hoist. I plan to keep this one around to help lift things in and out of vehicles and my trailer.
I do have a QuickJack if that changes anything you might recommend.
Don't think it's so important on how far it will lift as how far it will "reach" into the engine compartment. My engine hoist extended to the 1000 lb bolt hole (last one) is 63 inches from the tube at the rear pivot point to the front of the tube where the lift chain attaches. When I pulled the small block and turbo 400 from my 71 the hydraulic cylinder was very close to the right fender. My engine hoist is has folding legs.
What really helps is a "load leveler" and then you can attach 4 short chains to each cylinder head front and back. As you disconnect the trans mount you can kind of get a feel for the balance as you lift it. Get a plug for the trans or it will pour trans fluid all over.
Others can chime in but I wouldn't lift the car other than to get the front tires off for engine hoist clearance.
Bias the car towards the non lifting side of the car in your garage and you should be fine. Helps to have someone, In my case my wife to watch clearance problems. Get's a little scary when you have the engine and trans hanging over the nose of the car.
Oh and cover fenders and everything else with a thick layer of blankets to protect the paint.
Good luck.
Just did this recently. The one I used was a 2 ton portable model in the 89" lift range. Even with a load leveler the height was more than I needed. I was concerned about fluorescent light clearance in my 9 foot garage. So I removed the front tires from the car, and lowered the front as much as possible until the rotors would just clear the top of the legs on the engine hoist. No problem lifting even with a iron head BBC. But there is not that much difference in engine height. I did have to pull the engine/hoist out almost perpendicular from the car until the legs cleared. I would think that would be pretty close to a 15 ft distance. I had a 2 car garage, 20 ft wide. I'd guess I used about 15 ft of width. I would check some measurements carefully. You don't really want to be doing a lot of jockeying around with the hoist while that 500 lb lump is hanging over your fiberglass fender. And the front legs, under the motor, won't roll sideways, the hoist steers from the back only.
biggest diff between them all is price. that strongway is cheapest and comes with leveler. another thought. craigslist 100 bucks used. or rent one so you don't hafta warehouse it once you are done. or resell the craigs one once done...
My engine hoist extended to the 1000 lb bolt hole (last one) is 63 inches from the tube at the rear pivot point to the front of the tube where the lift chain attaches.
Both the Strongway and the Torin show this dimension to be 55-1/2". Sounds like that might not be ideal. The Ranger model I linked shows the boom dimension to be 63".
But, I don't really trust the dimensional information on the Torin. They are apparently made in the same factory as the owners manuals are very similar including identical dimensional drawings. But the Torin shows to have greater lift range even though most other dimensions are nearly the same as the Strongway.
The one I used was a 2 ton portable model in the 89" lift range. Even with a load leveler the height was more than I needed.
I did have to pull the engine/hoist out almost perpendicular from the car until the legs cleared. I would think that would be pretty close to a 15 ft distance.
Thanks. This info helps. I played around with a Sketchup model and it looks like I'll have enough room if I can clear some stuff away from the side walls and then park the Vette off center.
The base arm length is 71" on the one mentioned above. Seems about right for all the portables. That means you'd need about 7 ft to the side of the car.
May or may not work in a 15 ft wide space. You may need to go in from the front like richard 454 did.
The base arm length is 71" on the one mentioned above. Seems about right for all the portables. That means you'd need about 7 ft to the side of the car.
May or may not work in a 15 ft wide space. You may need to go in from the front like richard 454 did.
I actually came in on an angle......with the wheel off......I had two cars in the garage at the time and it was tight....but coming in at an angle was the answer.
Any big box store hoist I have ever seen is not long enough to come in from the front.......
There is always the A-Frame style chain falls too! Don't rule it out......the chain fall itself is reasonable and a guy can build an A-frame with a decent welder!
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Dec 23, 2019 at 02:47 PM.
On my engine hoist all four wheels swivel so I came in from the side and pulled the engine/trans up out and forward. It really helped to have me moving the hoist towards the front of the car and another person, again my wife (she really likes to do this stuff NOT) to just steady the engine and trans until it clears the front of the car.
I really don't see how you can do this with the hood on. Nice part about the fiber glass hood is they weigh hardly anything compared to a steel hood. Scribe around the hinge where it attaches to the hood and get it out of the way.
On the Shelby pic look how long the hoist arm is. Most current commercial engine hoists don't have that length.
If the tranny stays in its a lot easier. If you buy a leveler get the one with the hand wheel. The style with the large nut on both ends is a pain because if you use a 1/2" ratchet and socket you either have to take it off after each adjustment or let it hang and hope it doesn't fall off.
Also those "L" brackets that come with the leveler chains are waste of time unless you pull the intake. I replaced mine with two chains of similar size and just used the correct size bolts as needed.
Pics of the V12 hanging above a freshly painted car or any car is a bit scary. Glad it worked out.
Gotta remember this. But, I hope to pull this off without removing my hood. Several guys on the site claim it can be done. I'll guess I'll find out.
DC
I got the big block out of my 69 without removing the hood. Just disconnect the hinge so the hood can stand straight up. It was really close but made it.
If you buy a leveler get the one with the hand wheel. The style with the large nut on both ends is a pain because if you use a 1/2" ratchet and socket you either have to take it off after each adjustment or let it hang and hope it doesn't fall off.
Good to know. Thanks.
Originally Posted by 69ttop502
I got the big block out of my 69 without removing the hood. Just disconnect the hinge so the hood can stand straight up. It was really close but made it.
Thanks for the input and confirmation. I remember gkull posting that he never removes the hood to pull an engine so it's good to know that others have had success as well.
Engine Hoist Clearance Questions
