When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi easy mike
I'm trying to gather pics to post. This is a copy of the build sheet. I have the original but it's getting faded but can still.read it. Yes has a T for the 5th character in the vin. And it does say L82 but L82' didnt come with these heads. On the build sheet it says turbo-fire spec. 350 4 barrel v8
I do appreciate all of the responses from all of you. I'm an old school car guy I've done my time wrenching. I wouldn't have posted.anything about solid lift cams if I didnt know the difference between hyd. an solid lifters. I've tried to push these rockers forward on the pushrod to feel any any bleedoff and there is absolutely no give in it. It's as solid as I gets. I just replaced the fly wheel,clutch,pplate. I'm in the middle.of replacing the fuel pump and starter as we speak. I've been under and over this c3 since I've had it (maybe a month or so). I havent seen any indication that this motor was ever removed from this car. I would notice things like this.
If there is no stamping on the pads, it was removed and exchanged or milled.
What are the block # and dates. that is your first start.
1970 LT1 350 w/GM Solid Lift Cam Cold Intake = .026 / Exhaust .032 Afterward warm up and run hot settings or at operating temp!
Hot Intake = .024 / Exhaust - .030 Small Block Chevy Valve Adjustment Order 0 deg TDC, both number one valves shut.
Adjust the #1 exhaust valve Adjust the #1 intake valve Adjust the #3 exhaust valve Adjust the #5 intake valve Adjust the #7 intake valve Adjust the #2 intake valve Adjust the #4 exhaust valve Adjust the #8 exhaust valve
Now rotate the engine 360 degrees. The mark on the balancer should be back at the TDC mark. Keep in mind that this is not the TDC where #1 would e firing! It’s where #6 would fire.
Adjust the #3 intake valve Adjust the #5 exhaust valve Adjust the #7 exhaust valve Adjust the #2 exhaust valve Adjust the #4 intake valve Adjust the #6 exhaust valve Adjust the #6 intake valve Adjust the #8 Intake Valve
This matches my Chevy service Manuel, use it as a rough guide
If there is no stamping on the pads, it was removed and exchanged or milled.
What are the block # and dates. that is your first start.
1970 LT1 350 w/GM Solid Lift Cam Cold Intake = .026 / Exhaust .032 Afterward warm up and run hot settings or at operating temp!
Hot Intake = .024 / Exhaust - .030 Small Block Chevy Valve Adjustment Order 0 deg TDC, both number one valves shut.
Adjust the #1 exhaust valve Adjust the #1 intake valve Adjust the #3 exhaust valve Adjust the #5 intake valve Adjust the #7 intake valve Adjust the #2 intake valve Adjust the #4 exhaust valve Adjust the #8 exhaust valve
Now rotate the engine 360 degrees. The mark on the balancer should be back at the TDC mark. Keep in mind that this is not the TDC where #1 would e firing! It’s where #6 would fire.
Adjust the #3 intake valve Adjust the #5 exhaust valve Adjust the #7 exhaust valve Adjust the #2 exhaust valve Adjust the #4 intake valve Adjust the #6 exhaust valve Adjust the #6 intake valve Adjust the #8 Intake Valve
This matches my Chevy service Manuel, use it as a rough guide
blue 1972 now your talking, thank you for this. Very helpful
Last edited by Mahogrider; Jan 2, 2020 at 08:40 PM.
That is a 1970 LT1 console, all 4 speed inserts can be interchanged. People often did that to "show" more HP. Not original to the car. Also the chrome on the insert is wrong.
Heads " The 3991492 angle plug was an "over the counter" part. Straight plug version came on 1970 LT1s. I am pretty certain of this, but some one correct me if I am wrong.
Not factory broaching, block was machined.
If you don't add ZEDD to the oil, you will wipe the cam. ESP if it's a solid lifter.
Blue1972 you may be right I dont have any way of proving it was original equip but I cant tell that it has ever been removed or replaced. I'm trying to give all the info that may be helpful. I still wonder if this wasnt a special.order car of some sort.
Your car has a non-numbers matching engine as there are no numbers on the deck. Over the counter and factory service replacements are stamped with something that begins with "CEXXXXX" but you do not have that. That block has been decked and any stamps that were there originally are long gone. The heads are over the counter service replacements that were never used on a production engine. If we had casting date codes it would likely confirm all of that. The console has a non original data plate on it to make the car look like something cool but you really cant believe any of that. The lack of valve lash suggests a hydraulic lifter camshaft.
Good news is the heads are cool so no junk there. What else is in there is pretty difficult to guess from here so it really could be anything.
OP mg
you may have a real princess ... or a pig in a poke ?
suggest scan your documentation / "special docs" (tank sticker too?) and post it here along with images of all your casting numbers and casting dates.
jackson I'm hoping good have a princess, I'm guessing time will tell. Be patient with me I'm still.learning how to navigate thru here. Look thru this column an check out the pics I've posted. Tell.me what you think.
That is a 1970 LT1 console, all 4 speed inserts can be interchanged. People often did that to "show" more HP. Not original to the car. Also the chrome on the insert is wrong.
Heads " The 3991492 angle plug was an "over the counter" part. Straight plug version came on 1970 LT1s. I am pretty certain of this, but some one correct me if I am wrong.
Not factory broaching, block was machined.
If you don't add ZEDD to the oil, you will wipe the cam. ESP if it's a solid lifter.
blue1972 i havent ever seen zedd but I'll look for it. I have a few old bikes an have been running rotella t in them.an they seem.to really like it. I run rotella t in my harleys also. They run much quieter an cooler if you ask me. I've already considered running it in this vette also. Rotella has plenty of zink in it
I'm assuming that's what this zedd is about.
What paperwork? There were only two factory small block engines for 74 and both were hydraulic lifter, L-48 base and optional L-82. The fifth character in the VIN is the engine code, J for the L-48 and T for the L-82.
Your engine may be original, but it did not leave St. Louis with solid lifters or angle plug heads.
What paperwork? There were only two factory small block engines for 74 and both were hydraulic lifter, L-48 base and optional L-82. The fifth character in the VIN is the engine code, J for the L-48 and T for the L-82.
Your engine may be original, but it did not leave St. Louis with solid lifters or angle plug heads.
isnt this from st.louist. I'd be guessing but I think this was a one off order from long Chevrolet.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.