Frame off tire rub
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 30
Likes: 7
Frame off tire rub
I’m progressing well with my 68 vert resto, but have hit a snag. My new Wilwood calipers and US Mag wheels and BFG G-Force Sport Comp 2’s were delivered last Friday. So naturally I couldn’t wait to install them this weekend and finally take the car off stands to see the ride height and fender gaps. All was well until I did a lock to lock turn test. The passenger front tire hits the inner front fender lip. Prior to purchase the body was removed and the car under went a full frame off chassis rebuild with stock suspension components, but It hasn't had an alignment completed since the rebuild because it hadn’t been in drivable condition. Upon further investigation, the steering is visibly off by a considerable amount. When one front tire is straight the other isn’t. The alignment will happen after interior completion. I believe I did my due diligence when researching tire and wheel combos but am looking for guidance on if my selection will still be a problem after the alignment that is still some time away. Would the front suspension possibly need to settle?
Tire and wheel specs
Tires: 235/50R18 BFG G-Force Sport Comp 2
Wheels: 18x8 US MAG Standard 108, Offset: 1, Backspace 4.5
Thanks in advance for any assistance you can give!
Tire and wheel specs
Tires: 235/50R18 BFG G-Force Sport Comp 2
Wheels: 18x8 US MAG Standard 108, Offset: 1, Backspace 4.5
Thanks in advance for any assistance you can give!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,240
Likes: 1,013
From: Watkinsville, GA and Glen Cove, NY
I would try to get your wheels pointed straight ahead and get the toe and camber set up close to zero. Just play with the tie rod ends and upper control arm shims and should be able to eyeball it. When you get camber right, maybe remove a shim from front bolts on control arms to give a little positive castor too. Shouldn’t be hard to do and don’t have to be precise. After that see where you are. With a 235 tire and 4.5 backspace you should be fine as long as the tire isn’t taller than 27 inches. Also try to get your fender to ground height around 27, depending on if you have easy adjustability in your suspension.
Last edited by 69ttop502; Jan 26, 2020 at 08:54 PM.
2026 Loser of the Year
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
As 69ttop said...…get the wheels pointing straight ahead.
FIRST...TAKE NOTES! MEASURE THE INNER FENDER LIP-TO-FRAME DISTANCE ON EACH FENDER TO SEE IF THE INNER FENDERS ARE "SQUARE" WITH THE FRAME. This may help you identify a problem with the body being diagonal-rather than parallel to the frame.
Basic Outline:
Center the steering wheel halfway between lock-to-lock.....then adjust tierod ends until both wheels/tires inboard walls are equidistant from the frame/chassis. Then tweak each tierod to get "0" toe-in/toe-out.
Then adjust camber...I use an inexpensive PLASTIC carpenter's level which I cut one end to fit on the outside edge of the rim lip top-to-bottom...roll the car backward /THEN/ forward after each camber adjustment to make the suspension settle.
Let us know what you discover. Pics can help Members advise you.
FIRST...TAKE NOTES! MEASURE THE INNER FENDER LIP-TO-FRAME DISTANCE ON EACH FENDER TO SEE IF THE INNER FENDERS ARE "SQUARE" WITH THE FRAME. This may help you identify a problem with the body being diagonal-rather than parallel to the frame.
Basic Outline:
Center the steering wheel halfway between lock-to-lock.....then adjust tierod ends until both wheels/tires inboard walls are equidistant from the frame/chassis. Then tweak each tierod to get "0" toe-in/toe-out.
Then adjust camber...I use an inexpensive PLASTIC carpenter's level which I cut one end to fit on the outside edge of the rim lip top-to-bottom...roll the car backward /THEN/ forward after each camber adjustment to make the suspension settle.
Let us know what you discover. Pics can help Members advise you.
