1981 C3 No Power
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 7
Likes: 2
1981 C3 No Power
Hello all,
LESSON LEARNED
I recently bought a 1981 C3 and was replacing the spark plugs and my socket fell and shorted on the starter!😡 Now I have nothing when I turn the key! I’ve replaced the fuse links at the starter. I have voltage through the fuse link wire at the battery. I’ve got voltage at the starter. I’ve checked the wiring from the starter to the harness plug at the firewall under the brake booster and didn’t notice any abnormalities. Is it possible that I’ve burnt out a relay or switch? I’d really appreciate any help?
Regards
LESSON LEARNED
I recently bought a 1981 C3 and was replacing the spark plugs and my socket fell and shorted on the starter!😡 Now I have nothing when I turn the key! I’ve replaced the fuse links at the starter. I have voltage through the fuse link wire at the battery. I’ve got voltage at the starter. I’ve checked the wiring from the starter to the harness plug at the firewall under the brake booster and didn’t notice any abnormalities. Is it possible that I’ve burnt out a relay or switch? I’d really appreciate any help?
Regards
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 789
Likes: 129
From: Los Banos CA
I'm not familiar with any fusible link at the battery? What else on the car is not working (interior lights, headlights, radio, etc)? There might be another fusible link in the area around the brake booster, but I'm not sure.
Regardless, here is what I'd try: First, using a screwdriver, short between the large and small connectors on the starter. If the starter spins, then your 'large' cable connections are probably all good. If it doesn't spin, then you might have had a marginal connection someplace, and when your socket shorted things out, that marginal connection might have lost connection totally. I'd check the ground cable under the battery box, where it attaches to the frame, then the ground cable from the frame to the engine block.
Regardless, here is what I'd try: First, using a screwdriver, short between the large and small connectors on the starter. If the starter spins, then your 'large' cable connections are probably all good. If it doesn't spin, then you might have had a marginal connection someplace, and when your socket shorted things out, that marginal connection might have lost connection totally. I'd check the ground cable under the battery box, where it attaches to the frame, then the ground cable from the frame to the engine block.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
You have juice at the starter but not beyond that. I think you fried the solenoid. That's the only thing with exposed electrical lugs.
Cheap & easy replacement. Stay away from overseas parts on this situation.
You need to get the front end up on blocks. Disconnect the GRD at the battery, remove starter, place unit on workbench and swap out solenoid. Its likely old anyway. The contacts inside wear out and will leave you stranded.
Cheap & easy replacement. Stay away from overseas parts on this situation.
You need to get the front end up on blocks. Disconnect the GRD at the battery, remove starter, place unit on workbench and swap out solenoid. Its likely old anyway. The contacts inside wear out and will leave you stranded.
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 7
Likes: 2
Thanks guys! I really don’t feel comfortable shorting anything at this point... I’m gonna replace the solenoid and see if that’s it. At this point I’ve checked everything from the fuse box to the starter and agree with Heads U.P.’s cheap option. I’ll post the results in a couple days. Thanks again!
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 789
Likes: 129
From: Los Banos CA
Sorry, maybe I shouldn't have used the word 'short' in this case. 
If you're not comfortable using a screwdriver, then a couple of test leads with alligator clips can be used too. Just clip one test lead onto each starter terminal, and then touch the other ends together. All you're basically doing is completing the circuit, similar to what happens when the key is turned (but not using any of the 'start' circuit wiring). 
If you're not comfortable using a screwdriver, then a couple of test leads with alligator clips can be used too. Just clip one test lead onto each starter terminal, and then touch the other ends together. All you're basically doing is completing the circuit, similar to what happens when the key is turned (but not using any of the 'start' circuit wiring).
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
Moeses,
If its not the Solenoid, which I believe its 80% chance it is, at least you will have peace of mind knowing its been replaced. Starters usually out live the solenoids and solenoids are considered a "wear" part much like battery, tires, brake rotors, etc.
Before you tear into that solenoid project, take a picture of the wire hook-up & color location. You can also mark each wire with masking tape / felt pen. Its easy to forget how the wires went a few days later. Just before installing the starter, smear a dab of grease on the Bendix shaft and it will last another 20 yrs.
If its not the Solenoid, which I believe its 80% chance it is, at least you will have peace of mind knowing its been replaced. Starters usually out live the solenoids and solenoids are considered a "wear" part much like battery, tires, brake rotors, etc.
Before you tear into that solenoid project, take a picture of the wire hook-up & color location. You can also mark each wire with masking tape / felt pen. Its easy to forget how the wires went a few days later. Just before installing the starter, smear a dab of grease on the Bendix shaft and it will last another 20 yrs.
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 7
Likes: 2
Hello Folks,
I still have no power at all. I replaced the solenoid and the ignition switch. With the negative battery cable disconnected, I had 12V across the negative cable and the negative battery post. I unplugged the fuses 1 by 1 and I found that the light dimmer switch on the steering column was causing that issue. This couldn't possibly be my issue of no power could it? I didn't mention earlier that I have 12v at the end of the starter harness but when I plug it into the male end I don't have 12v on the largest red wire going towards the main harness connection on the firewall. I don't want to start cutting wires. A peer of mine is going to loan me his Power Probe III tomorrow. Until I read through the instructions, any suggestions are welcomed??
I still have no power at all. I replaced the solenoid and the ignition switch. With the negative battery cable disconnected, I had 12V across the negative cable and the negative battery post. I unplugged the fuses 1 by 1 and I found that the light dimmer switch on the steering column was causing that issue. This couldn't possibly be my issue of no power could it? I didn't mention earlier that I have 12v at the end of the starter harness but when I plug it into the male end I don't have 12v on the largest red wire going towards the main harness connection on the firewall. I don't want to start cutting wires. A peer of mine is going to loan me his Power Probe III tomorrow. Until I read through the instructions, any suggestions are welcomed??
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Every 2027 Corvette Engine Explained
Joe Kucinski
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Verdad Gallardo
10 Ugly Corvettes That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
I take it the job went well and all the wires were hooked up to the solenoid correctly. The trouble with doing two jobs at once is, if something goes wrong, which replacement part is to blame? (IGN Switch or Solenoid?)
The new modern style male plug-in harness of your new starter / solenoid has me concerned. IDK.
New solenoid
New IGN
Fusible link is good
No power at starter
The new modern style male plug-in harness of your new starter / solenoid has me concerned. IDK.
New solenoid
New IGN
Fusible link is good
No power at starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 789
Likes: 129
From: Los Banos CA
When you're talking about the 'end of the starter harness', are you referring to the 6 wire connector that is near the fire wall? Your harness should look something like this:
At the black 6 wire connector, you should have power on all three of the red wires (as long as the red wire with the ring connector is connected to the starter at the other end). NOTE: There are two fusible links in that harness. If you have power at the starter (on the large terminal), but don't have power on all 3 red wires at the 6-wire connector, then your problem is in this harness. These 3 red wires provide power TO the car, not to the starter. It should be obvious, but the white connector in the harness above goes to the temp sensor for the aux electric fan (I'm not sure if all 81's had the electric fan or not). Make sure that the black wire with a ring terminal goes to the starter mounting bolt, not to the solenoid.
At the black 6 wire connector, you should have power on all three of the red wires (as long as the red wire with the ring connector is connected to the starter at the other end). NOTE: There are two fusible links in that harness. If you have power at the starter (on the large terminal), but don't have power on all 3 red wires at the 6-wire connector, then your problem is in this harness. These 3 red wires provide power TO the car, not to the starter. It should be obvious, but the white connector in the harness above goes to the temp sensor for the aux electric fan (I'm not sure if all 81's had the electric fan or not). Make sure that the black wire with a ring terminal goes to the starter mounting bolt, not to the solenoid.
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 7
Likes: 2
Bradleyb66,
Thanks for the response. Everything is connected correctly at the starter and solenoid. I do have power on all 3 red wires until I plug the male end in (then no voltage). I've narrowed the the issue down to the thickest red wire that comes through the firewall and is not going through the fusebox. I cut the red wire under the dash to determine if the trouble was inside or out and the trouble is on the inside (didn't want to pull the firewall harness). I've searched my Haynes book and can't figure out where the red wire goes? It seems to be of smaller gauge than the small positive wire leaving the battery (maybe?). Does anyone know where this wire goes? I'm gonna place a tone generator on the wire tomorrow and attempt to trace it that way before pulling things apart. Any assistance is appreciated....
Thanks
Thanks for the response. Everything is connected correctly at the starter and solenoid. I do have power on all 3 red wires until I plug the male end in (then no voltage). I've narrowed the the issue down to the thickest red wire that comes through the firewall and is not going through the fusebox. I cut the red wire under the dash to determine if the trouble was inside or out and the trouble is on the inside (didn't want to pull the firewall harness). I've searched my Haynes book and can't figure out where the red wire goes? It seems to be of smaller gauge than the small positive wire leaving the battery (maybe?). Does anyone know where this wire goes? I'm gonna place a tone generator on the wire tomorrow and attempt to trace it that way before pulling things apart. Any assistance is appreciated....
Thanks
Pro
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 567
Likes: 82
From: Auckland
Bradleyb66,
Thanks for the response. Everything is connected correctly at the starter and solenoid. I do have power on all 3 red wires until I plug the male end in (then no voltage). I've narrowed the the issue down to the thickest red wire that comes through the firewall and is not going through the fusebox.
Thanks for the response. Everything is connected correctly at the starter and solenoid. I do have power on all 3 red wires until I plug the male end in (then no voltage). I've narrowed the the issue down to the thickest red wire that comes through the firewall and is not going through the fusebox.
also the only red wire to go through the firewall and not to the fusebox goes to the headlight switch not the Ecm as you believe.
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 7
Likes: 2
Hello All,
I want to thank everyone for your replies and brainstorming. After spending time troubleshooting the wiring this weekend, I finally have power back to the Vette!! I found that the red wire went to a splice that doesn't look like a factory job. It had 5 wires spliced together above the steering column wrapped in what appeared to be gorilla tape. One of the wires that fed back through the firewall harness to the alternator and hood light was burnt. I also found a couple suspect connections while I was searching the wiring. I'm not sure if it's fixed yet but to have power when I turn the key is a huge win. I still have a couple of the wires from the splice open and some fuses pulled. If everything checks out good with those tomorrow, I'll "reconnect" the NEGATIVE cable and fire that puppy up...... Having a project car is a new adventure for me and I appreciate that there is a place to go for help. I'll update the thread tomorrow evening with the progress.
Thanks again
I want to thank everyone for your replies and brainstorming. After spending time troubleshooting the wiring this weekend, I finally have power back to the Vette!! I found that the red wire went to a splice that doesn't look like a factory job. It had 5 wires spliced together above the steering column wrapped in what appeared to be gorilla tape. One of the wires that fed back through the firewall harness to the alternator and hood light was burnt. I also found a couple suspect connections while I was searching the wiring. I'm not sure if it's fixed yet but to have power when I turn the key is a huge win. I still have a couple of the wires from the splice open and some fuses pulled. If everything checks out good with those tomorrow, I'll "reconnect" the NEGATIVE cable and fire that puppy up...... Having a project car is a new adventure for me and I appreciate that there is a place to go for help. I'll update the thread tomorrow evening with the progress.
Thanks again
Pro
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 567
Likes: 82
From: Auckland
Hello All,
I want to thank everyone for your replies and brainstorming. After spending time troubleshooting the wiring this weekend, I finally have power back to the Vette!! I found that the red wire went to a splice that doesn't look like a factory job. It had 5 wires spliced together above the steering column wrapped in what appeared to be gorilla tape. One of the wires that fed back through the firewall harness to the alternator and hood light was burnt. I also found a couple suspect connections while I was searching the wiring. I'm not sure if it's fixed yet but to have power when I turn the key is a huge win. I still have a couple of the wires from the splice open and some fuses pulled. If everything checks out good with those tomorrow, I'll "reconnect" the NEGATIVE cable and fire that puppy up...... Having a project car is a new adventure for me and I appreciate that there is a place to go for help. I'll update the thread tomorrow evening with the progress.
Thanks again
I want to thank everyone for your replies and brainstorming. After spending time troubleshooting the wiring this weekend, I finally have power back to the Vette!! I found that the red wire went to a splice that doesn't look like a factory job. It had 5 wires spliced together above the steering column wrapped in what appeared to be gorilla tape. One of the wires that fed back through the firewall harness to the alternator and hood light was burnt. I also found a couple suspect connections while I was searching the wiring. I'm not sure if it's fixed yet but to have power when I turn the key is a huge win. I still have a couple of the wires from the splice open and some fuses pulled. If everything checks out good with those tomorrow, I'll "reconnect" the NEGATIVE cable and fire that puppy up...... Having a project car is a new adventure for me and I appreciate that there is a place to go for help. I'll update the thread tomorrow evening with the progress.
Thanks again
fyi that splice could have been factory, there is one shown in the wiring diagram.
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 7
Likes: 2
Guys,
I'm having quite the adventure trying to get my Vette running again. Still laughing though!! (At myself!) I put everything back together and heavy handed the Solenoid and broke the housing!
I got the new one but it has the R & S terminal, whereas my other one only has the S terminal. Will it work or do I need to send it back?
Thanks in advance
I'm having quite the adventure trying to get my Vette running again. Still laughing though!! (At myself!) I put everything back together and heavy handed the Solenoid and broke the housing!
I got the new one but it has the R & S terminal, whereas my other one only has the S terminal. Will it work or do I need to send it back?Thanks in advance