When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
G'day All,
Ever since I first received my '69 back in 2010 the L/H kick panel vent door has never closed properly. I have tried adjusting the cable with no change. I am at the moment just looking at
another problem in the same general area and thought while I'm at it I would take another look at this problem. The question I have is, which way is the door located in the opening, with the
spring loaded pivot pin to the top or towards the bottom? This would determine the position of the cable on the vent door and the way the door swings. I have had a look at the AIM but it is
absolutely useless and shows only a very basic view of this area.
TIA for any help you can provide.
Mark
In my '69 coupe the vent doors (and I am pretty sure nobody touched them till I did) were spring down on the left/driver side and spring up on the right/passenger side.
Are you sure that the seal is still complete and in place?
Thanks for the photo GunPowder, shows me that I don't have the foam seal. looks like I have to get some foam and make a seal.
This still leaves the question as to why the console lever does not travel through it's full throw. I know, I didn't mention this in my first post.
Easy job to make the foam seal, but they are also available as a spare part.
The seal is a layer between the two metal sheets, so you have to disassemble the door....
Michael’s craft stores has the foam sheets that you can cut to fit or buy them from one of the Vette supply houses. You want to get the thicker foam sheets as they will probably last longer. There is a how to on the forum, but it may be under “fresh air vent” for cars with AC. If you can’t find the how to instructions, PM me, I can email the link to you.
The console *****/levers are adjustable with a turn-buckle type of gizmo in each cable. The driver's side is just about under the column. The other side is behind the right side upper dash. you can try twisting these to see if that gives you more cable "stroke" with the lever throw.
Also - I found one of mine were bound up on both ends. The cable is actually a stiff wire in the jacket and has minimal flexibility.
I went underneath the dash with the kick panel out and straightened out that side with a pair of pliers.
The other side, under the shift console, was the same deal - had a kink in it, and pushing the lever to close the vent only caused the kink to bend - not to push on the cable.
All is working fine now.
Oh, and a little WD-40 on both ends at the pivot points helped smooth things out nicely.
G.L.
The console *****/levers are adjustable with a turn-buckle type of gizmo in each cable. The driver's side is just about under the column. The other side is behind the right side upper dash. you can try twisting these to see if that gives you more cable "stroke" with the lever throw.
Also - I found one of mine were bound up on both ends. The cable is actually a stiff wire in the jacket and has minimal flexibility.
I went underneath the dash with the kick panel out and straightened out that side with a pair of pliers.
The other side, under the shift console, was the same deal - had a kink in it, and pushing the lever to close the vent only caused the kink to bend - not to push on the cable.
All is working fine now.
Oh, and a little WD-40 on both ends at the pivot points helped smooth things out nicely.
G.L.
Spray the entire length of the cable once you straighten all the kinked areas...it will work like new...then adjust the control handle as needed. (I used old school 3-One oil after loosening the internal wire with wd40...then wiped off the excess 3-in-One oil.
[quote=Bergerboy]The console *****/levers are adjustable with a turn-buckle type of gizmo in each cable. The driver's side is just about under the column. The other side is behind the right side upper dash. you can try twisting these to see if that gives you more cable "stroke" with the lever throw.
Michael’s craft stores has the foam sheets that you can cut to fit or buy them from one of the Vette supply houses. You want to get the thicker foam sheets as they will probably last longer. There is a how to on the forum, but it may be under “fresh air vent” for cars with AC. If you can’t find the how to instructions, PM me, I can email the link to you.
Just a bit too far for me to go at the moment as I'm in Brisbane, downunder, but next time I'm in the vicinity I'll be sure to drop in.
In my '69 coupe the vent doors (and I am pretty sure nobody touched them till I did) were spring down on the left/driver side and spring up on the right/passenger side.
Are you sure that the seal is still complete and in place?
G'day GunPowder,
Is this photo of the left side(drivers side) or right side (passenger side)?
Thanks GunPowder, I have checked the cable, made sure it is straight, lubricated it, replaced the foam, played with the adjuster, but still can't get it to close and seal. It is as if the cable is too short, the only thing I can think of is that the cable at the lever is anchored in the wrong place.
Thanks GunPowder, I have checked the cable, made sure it is straight, lubricated it, replaced the foam, played with the adjuster, but still can't get it to close and seal. It is as if the cable is too short, the only thing I can think of is that the cable at the lever
is anchored in the wrong place.
You're very welcome!
That's strange....
Can you close the door just by pulling the cable (without/not attached to the lever)?
May be someone can chime in with the correct length of the cable?!