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76 Window Motor Issues

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Old Mar 25, 2020 | 08:35 PM
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Default 76 Window Motor Issues

The passenger side window motor seemed to have gone bad as it would not go up or down anymore (original window motor). So I bought a new one from Ecklers and connected it and it did not work. I have a couple basic questions from someone not as electrically inclined:

1. Both motors have resistance when connected to volt meter outside of car.
2. Both motors don't turn when directly connected to 12v power. Shouldn't the motor run in either direction when connected directly to 12v power as any DC motor would or does it need to be switched?
3. The driver side motor works. I disconnected the motor on the driver side and then connected the driver side wiring to the passenger side old motor and the new motor, but both still do not turn. With good power on the driver side and working switch shouldn't the right side motor work when connected and switched up / down?
Driving me crazy......

Thanks for your input!
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Old Mar 25, 2020 | 11:07 PM
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More sleuthing is needed. You may have a bad original motor; and you may have a bad Ecklers motor.

The only other things to try are:
  • Does the driver motor work on the passenger wiring?
  • Does the driver motor work with the direct 12v power (the way you'd expect)?
  • Does the driver motor yield the same resistance as the other two?
If after checking the driver motor and confirming it's perfectly functional, then a call to Ecklers to exchange is likely in order.
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Old Mar 26, 2020 | 03:17 PM
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Thank you for the input. I'll try to connect the driver motor to the passenger side switch to see if that works. Maybe I'm just in denial that the new motor does not actually work. Bummer. If the new tests reveal this then I'll reach out to Ecklers for the return or replacement.

Thanks
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Old Mar 26, 2020 | 05:59 PM
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don't want to be a captain obvious here , but you know both inputs to the motors are positive . the earth is the motor bolted to the door and the earth goes through the hinge back into the birdcage .
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Old Mar 26, 2020 | 06:36 PM
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I thought that might be true so how do I test the window motor unit outside of the car with a 12v battery? Where does the negative terminal on the batter go to on the unit?
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Old Mar 26, 2020 | 06:47 PM
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Bazza77 - You just SOLVED IT! I cannot believe it. so I was connecting the motor outside the door panel and leaving it on the seat. When I switched it up or down it did not function. Once I touched the gear box to door panel metal frame it now Operated. Sometimes the simple things just boggle the mind.

Thank You. You are a genius and I apparently am not!
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Old Mar 27, 2020 | 07:55 AM
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So the new motor is OK and the original is bad ?

You can add a ground wire on one of the three screws that hold the motor on the regulator , just make sure it doesn't get caught up in the movement , and run that through the door and into you birdcage up under the dash for a better ground if it helps.
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Old Mar 27, 2020 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by bazza77
So the new motor is OK and the original is bad ?

You can add a ground wire on one of the three screws that hold the motor on the regulator , just make sure it doesn't get caught up in the movement , and run that through the door and into you birdcage up under the dash for a better ground if it helps.

New motor is good. Old motor is bad. Now to find some visual documents how to re-install the motor after taking it out. The Build Sheets are not clear and the Haynes manual either. Any diagrams how this is done. Glass is still in the door panel and all brackets.

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Old Mar 28, 2020 | 09:28 AM
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here's a step by step of a conversion from manual to electric , might be a help to you

https://tech.corvettecentral.com/201...ic-windows-c3/
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Old Mar 31, 2020 | 05:57 PM
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Glad you got it fixed!

I should have written the first time I read that the power window motors are case grounded with the electrical connectors to +12V (up/down). I know it seems strange (at first) for a DC motor where you normally just flip the positive and negative connections to reverse but there are a couple excellent reasons it's done this way in a car:

1) A simple single-pole double-throw switch is used that contains only +12V so there's zero chance of the switch shorting internally. No need for the double-pole double throw "reversing" switch.

2) It reduces the amount of wiring because there's no need to run -12V to the switches.
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