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Another thing you can do if you want to make certain is to unhook the battery, then place the VOM meter in ohms position - 2K should do - ground the black lead on a known good ground and place the other (usually red) end of the VOM on the LT Blue wire coming from the other half of the 2 x 6 connector. Now open the door and press the door ajar switches in and out - the ohm meter should go from infinity to something close to a 0-10 ohms. This would indicate that the ground side of the bulb is working properly.
Ok, in my wiring diagram (it's a 1969, but certainly similar) I see the Lt Blue wire leaving the socket and going into a 2 X 6 connector.
I highlighted in Yellow the connection you need to find. From that connection, the Lt Blue wire picks back up again and then goes into
your driver side door ajar switch. So I would first find this connector (I often look for a connector of the same size and look for the wire
colors like the one in the picture around it to be certain you have the right one.) and then you can find the fault. If you place the bulb back in the
socket and ground the Lt Blue on the other side of this connector the light should illuminate and you will eliminate the circuitry from the connector
back to the bulb. If it does not light, then you know it is from the bulb socket to (or in) the connector.
Don't get frustrated - chasing down these electrical issues takes patience and persistence.
Originally Posted by jpatrick62
Another thing you can do if you want to make certain is to unhook the battery, then place the VOM meter in ohms position - 2K should do - ground the black lead on a known good ground and place the other (usually red) end of the VOM on the LT Blue wire coming from the other half of the 2 x 6 connector. Now open the door and press the door ajar switches in and out - the ohm meter should go from infinity to something close to a 0-10 ohms. This would indicate that the ground side of the bulb is working properly.
Patrick is exactly correct on both posts. Only thing i would add, would be that you need to remove bulb from socket to effectively isolate ground circuit when testing for continuity. Did you test the bulb that you're using for continuity across the filament? Also, at some point, when you find the 2x6 connector, first leave it connected, remove bulb, then test for continuity across the blue ground wire at the connector. If everything else checks out, the only other connection that needs to be examined is the blue wire, aft of the connector, where it connects to the other ground wire that runs between the switches. Remember, the circuit in question provides a ground pathway for the bulb and, when either switch grounds the circuit, the bulb illuminates, (assuming the ibn. switch is on).
Fastimes I took my 12v tester to the socket (using the door striker as a ground) and I have power to the socket. The socket looks fine. The metal contacts are in place and clean. The bulb twists in place and is held tight.
Carry this one step further and stick a safety pin through the ground wire at the socket, connect alligator test lead from pin to known good ground, then turn on ign switch, bulb will illuminate.
Carry this one step further and stick a safety pin through the ground wire at the socket, connect alligator test lead from pin to known good ground, then turn on ign switch, bulb will illuminate.
That's a handy tip to confirm there is no fault with the socket. Thanks!
Forgive me if I’m missing something here. In post 7 Rescue Rogers asked you if you were checking all these things with the key in the ignition and it turned to the “ON” position. The reason I am focused on this is that you never responded that you had the key On when checking this. I had problems with my 68 door ajar light and spent an hour or so troubleshooting until I remembered that that light only comes on when you have the key in the ignition switch and it turned to the run or on position not accessory. Turns out there was nothing wrong with mine except my key not in ignition. Sorry if I mistook your reply to Rescue Rogers.
Forgive me if I’m missing something here. In post 7 Rescue Rogers asked you if you were checking all these things with the key in the ignition and it turned to the “ON” position. The reason I am focused on this is that you never responded that you had the key On when checking this. I had problems with my 68 door ajar light and spent an hour or so troubleshooting until I remembered that that light only comes on when you have the key in the ignition switch and it turned to the run or on position not accessory. Turns out there was nothing wrong with mine except my key not in ignition. Sorry if I mistook your reply to Rescue Rogers.
No worries. I am testing with the key in the on position. Honestly, I wasn't sure when the "door ajar" circuit is active, so I tried with the key in the on position, then with the car running in neutral, reverse, forward gears, opening driver's door, then passenger door, then both doors.
As I mentioned, it was working fine, then just stopped (although I didn't notice exactly when).
Thanks for the input. Sometimes it really is something simple that is overlooked.
That's a handy tip to confirm there is no fault with the socket. Thanks!
I will continue to chase the gremlin later today.
So, I tried the safety pin trick through the light blue wire. I pierced it as far as I could reach, before the bulb/socket. I connected my test lead to the safety pin, then to a good ground. The bulb illuminated. So, if I'm correct, I think the issue lies between the switches and the 2 x 6 connector. I still can't locate the 2 x 6 connector. I cannot see any such connector under the driver side dash.
At the very least, at this point I've been successful at eliminating that which is not at fault. I'm closing in on it (thanks to all who have chimed in here with helpful advice!)
Last edited by fastimes; Apr 14, 2020 at 08:36 PM.
Here's the location of the 2x6 rear harness connector. It appears to be above and in the area of the left forward kick panel.
An option you have in troubleshooting the rear harness, instead of doing continuity checks down the wire, you can do the safety pin thing, i.e., ***** the wire before the connector, then after, etc. The only downside to this is, you need to keep turning the ign. sw. on/off, as i wouldn't recommend just keeping the ign. sw. on, just MAKE SURE you're stabbing/grounding the right wire!
Another thing: You mentioned you replaced the door ajar switches. If you soldered in new slip-in pins to the wires, make sure they're all the way in the nylon part, as they are somewhat slippery in the new switch, could slide back a bit, resulting in not grounding, somewhat unlikely, though, as both would need to fail.
Thanks Chuck!
I found the rear part of the harness running under the sill plate. From there I believe that harness runs up the A-pillar. I'll have to see if I can get a glimpse of it up inside the pillar. Seems like an inaccessible place to locate a connector.
I'll continue my search later today. Thanks again
Thank you everyone!!!
I appreciate all of the information you shared with me.
I chased the problem down to a loose wire at the connector. I had a hard time finding it. It was wrapped in black electrical tape and located on top of the fresh air duct.
It took a while, but this has been a learning experience. I now know when my door is ajar lol!
Thanks again guys! You rock!
Don't know if you got to the bottom of your problem but as mentioned previously the switches you need to be looking at are the ones below the door lock, NOT the ones at the hinge side of the door, Bubba had cut all the wires to all the switches in my car and I've only just completed the repairs to the courtesy lights and alarm.
The door ajar system I addressed a while back now, the cure was a new door switch, these screw in to the door jamb and access to the connections is through a small plate in the wheel well just in front of the rear wheels and held in place with self tappers, when you're finished make sure to seal them up when you replace them to keep the water out.
Graham
Don't know if you got to the bottom of your problem but as mentioned previously the switches you need to be looking at are the ones below the door lock, NOT the ones at the hinge side of the door, Bubba had cut all the wires to all the switches in my car and I've only just completed the repairs to the courtesy lights and alarm.
The door ajar system I addressed a while back now, the cure was a new door switch, these screw in to the door jamb and access to the connections is through a small plate in the wheel well just in front of the rear wheels and held in place with self tappers, when you're finished make sure to seal them up when you replace them to keep the water out.
Graham
Thanks Graham,
Yes, I have it resolved for now. My weak link was a connector under the dash where the Door ajar lamp wire was loose. It is currently working, but if the issue returns, that'll be the first place I look.
Thanks Graham,
Yes, I have it resolved for now. My weak link was a connector under the dash where the Door ajar lamp wire was loose. It is currently working, but if the issue returns, that'll be the first place I look.
Good to hear you chased your gremlins out, let's hope they stay away!
Graham
