A/C compressor questions
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 433
Likes: 14
From: GA
A/C compressor questions
Does anyone have any experience(good, bad, ugly) with the Pro6ten compressor? Setup for 134a.
Does the condenser need to be changed to a "parallel" type? If so, where can I source one that will use the OEM fittings and lines?
Does the POA need to be adjusted? Can I do this myself or just replace it?
Thanks, Jim
Does the condenser need to be changed to a "parallel" type? If so, where can I source one that will use the OEM fittings and lines?
Does the POA need to be adjusted? Can I do this myself or just replace it?
Thanks, Jim
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 3,232
Likes: 1,232
From: PHX AZ
Your existing compressor (if it worked on F-12) will run fine with CFC-134A.
clean system thoroughly (you'll have to do this anyway
Change oil
Replace Receiver dryer, ANYWAY!
clean condensor
add appropriate schrader valves.
evacuate system
re-oil and recharge.
clean system thoroughly (you'll have to do this anyway
Change oil
Replace Receiver dryer, ANYWAY!
clean condensor
add appropriate schrader valves.
evacuate system
re-oil and recharge.
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 74
Likes: 23
From: Villa Rica GA
This is a good article about a retro fit to R-134A in a '71 model.
https://www.corvette-restoration.com...-r12-to-r134a/
I have converted several with stock brass condensers with good results, but a more efficient model is always best.
Tight working space! Just time consuming, not too difficult.
https://www.corvette-restoration.com...-r12-to-r134a/
I have converted several with stock brass condensers with good results, but a more efficient model is always best.
Tight working space! Just time consuming, not too difficult.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 3,232
Likes: 1,232
From: PHX AZ
The 'not working on CFC134a is a terrible 'myth'.
I have done this numerous times.
My little 'funny furrin car'...they said couldn't be done...with R-12 (F-12) it would run at 38° F on full...after the conversion and optimizing every component (the only replacement was the Receiver/dryer), it would run all day long at 27°=29°F....froze me OUT!
In AZ you don't care that the car is runnin' on 7 cylinders as long as the A/C works!
cheers.
I have done this numerous times.
My little 'funny furrin car'...they said couldn't be done...with R-12 (F-12) it would run at 38° F on full...after the conversion and optimizing every component (the only replacement was the Receiver/dryer), it would run all day long at 27°=29°F....froze me OUT!
In AZ you don't care that the car is runnin' on 7 cylinders as long as the A/C works!
cheers.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 7,653
Likes: 2,468
From: Indiana
The 'not working on CFC134a is a terrible 'myth'.
I have done this numerous times.
My little 'funny furrin car'...they said couldn't be done...with R-12 (F-12) it would run at 38° F on full...after the conversion and optimizing every component (the only replacement was the Receiver/dryer), it would run all day long at 27°=29°F....froze me OUT!
In AZ you don't care that the car is runnin' on 7 cylinders as long as the A/C works!
cheers.
I have done this numerous times.
My little 'funny furrin car'...they said couldn't be done...with R-12 (F-12) it would run at 38° F on full...after the conversion and optimizing every component (the only replacement was the Receiver/dryer), it would run all day long at 27°=29°F....froze me OUT!
In AZ you don't care that the car is runnin' on 7 cylinders as long as the A/C works!
cheers.
..damn close to my R12 38f
Last edited by interpon; Apr 8, 2020 at 06:43 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 3,232
Likes: 1,232
From: PHX AZ
I got the joke! There is a little 'trick' I learned from a 'fellow old guy' here in AZ. See, originally I was from No.VT..."what do we care about A/C!"
The temperature probe/ bourdon pressure tube/bulb that opens/closes the orifice valve is calibrated at the factory (that builds them) to NEVER allow the system to run below 'say' 36-38° F....otherwise the evaporator core can freeze over in humid weather. I 'remoted' the temp probe about 18" away from the Evap core....NOW IT ROCKS! My little AUDI TT has Climatronic and you can't do that....so it sits at 40° F.....huge difference from the '78 Scirocco that I mentioned above. Especially in those first five minutes!
In AZ we just don't get the humidity enough to matter. Now, if I was in New Orleans...different story.
End of June in AZ = 120° @ 2-5% RH.!!!!!
All temps were with my trusty calibrated THERMOCOUPLE (type K/ yellow) Only Amateurs use thermometers! LOL
Be COOL and BE WELL!
Unkahal
The temperature probe/ bourdon pressure tube/bulb that opens/closes the orifice valve is calibrated at the factory (that builds them) to NEVER allow the system to run below 'say' 36-38° F....otherwise the evaporator core can freeze over in humid weather. I 'remoted' the temp probe about 18" away from the Evap core....NOW IT ROCKS! My little AUDI TT has Climatronic and you can't do that....so it sits at 40° F.....huge difference from the '78 Scirocco that I mentioned above. Especially in those first five minutes!
In AZ we just don't get the humidity enough to matter. Now, if I was in New Orleans...different story.
End of June in AZ = 120° @ 2-5% RH.!!!!!
All temps were with my trusty calibrated THERMOCOUPLE (type K/ yellow) Only Amateurs use thermometers! LOL
Be COOL and BE WELL!
Unkahal
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 433
Likes: 14
From: GA
The A6 I currently have is toast and is the 2nd or 3rd replacement. Before I replace it again I thought I would ask about the Pro6ten.
I already have a conversion kit(dryer, o-rings, etc ).
Sounds like I don't need a new condenser or POA.
I already have a conversion kit(dryer, o-rings, etc ).
Sounds like I don't need a new condenser or POA.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 496
Likes: 153
From: San Francisco Bay Area
I got the joke! There is a little 'trick' I learned from a 'fellow old guy' here in AZ. See, originally I was from No.VT..."what do we care about A/C!"
The temperature probe/ bourdon pressure tube/bulb that opens/closes the orifice valve is calibrated at the factory (that builds them) to NEVER allow the system to run below 'say' 36-38° F....otherwise the evaporator core can freeze over in humid weather. I 'remoted' the temp probe about 18" away from the Evap core....NOW IT ROCKS! My little AUDI TT has Climatronic and you can't do that....so it sits at 40° F.....huge difference from the '78 Scirocco that I mentioned above. Especially in those first five minutes!
In AZ we just don't get the humidity enough to matter. Now, if I was in New Orleans...different story.
End of June in AZ = 120° @ 2-5% RH.!!!!!
All temps were with my trusty calibrated THERMOCOUPLE (type K/ yellow) Only Amateurs use thermometers! LOL
Be COOL and BE WELL!
Unkahal
The temperature probe/ bourdon pressure tube/bulb that opens/closes the orifice valve is calibrated at the factory (that builds them) to NEVER allow the system to run below 'say' 36-38° F....otherwise the evaporator core can freeze over in humid weather. I 'remoted' the temp probe about 18" away from the Evap core....NOW IT ROCKS! My little AUDI TT has Climatronic and you can't do that....so it sits at 40° F.....huge difference from the '78 Scirocco that I mentioned above. Especially in those first five minutes!
In AZ we just don't get the humidity enough to matter. Now, if I was in New Orleans...different story.
End of June in AZ = 120° @ 2-5% RH.!!!!!
All temps were with my trusty calibrated THERMOCOUPLE (type K/ yellow) Only Amateurs use thermometers! LOL
Be COOL and BE WELL!
Unkahal
Thanks much
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 7,653
Likes: 2,468
From: Indiana
also I have heard from many on this forum do not waste time with rebuilds.. I went NAPA with warranty...they do require flush , etc.. its right in the warranty proof of buying...
