put my rebuilt motor back in the 71 last week. along with new mcleod clutch pp and bearing. resurfaced flywheel. the old clutch was replaced once and looked like not alot of wear on it. the adjustment was no where near like the old clutch.seemed to be working in the garage as far as disengaging. started it up and noticed a noise like a bearing turning that i did not have before. took it out for a road test and it had a vibration and a hammer noise that got faster as speed increased. kind of like the old baseball card in the bike spoke.turned around right away.put it on the lift and pulled the motor again. dont see any issues with the clutch or flywheel.did notice the throw out bearing has a lobe on it and the old one doesnt. if that bearing is turning could that be my problem? ot do i have a transmission issue? i could feel the vibration on the tunnel when i drove it.also car is hard to get into reverse and it wasnt before. any thoughts? thanks

 

Did you have a trans problem before this? OK, saw it now has reverse problem. So, probably not trans related. Pilot bearing, throw out bearing, engine problem.
Do you hear the noise in neutral?
Does the noise change with engine speed or gear speed?
Could there be a problem with accessories or fan belts?
Some clutches require a different length ball stud.

 

Does it shift ok? Did you install the clutch disc in correctly? Easy mistake. Also possible that you damaged (warped) the clutch disc lining up the transmission input shaft.

 

Did you have the clutch fork properly set on the throwout bearing?

The clutch fork spring tongs ride in the groove, its easy to install it incorrectly and have the tongs over flange. Or pinching the flange of the TB.

if it was difficult to shift that could be the issue as the tongs would flex rather than push the throwout bearing into the clutch diaphragm spring.

The hammering could be flats on the TB rotating in the fork spring.

 

car shifted gears as it should except hard into reverse. my first thought was clutch in backwards but it was installed correct. actually would only install one way. new pilot bushing . clutch lays flat against flywheel so i dont think its a disk issue. what i did just notice is the inside of the new throwout bearing looks like the metal has some gald on it where it rides on the input bearing snout. i went thru the gears manually on the trainy laying on the bench and it seems fine. i ordered a new bearing snout for the trans and another throwout bearing. will put her back together and try it again.

 

c3w4sp bearing was installed correctly. i am thinking the same as you and sayfoo throwout bearing issue.

 

The McCloud set up works well in these cars, the clutch linkage geometry limits TB travel to fully disengage the clutch. McCloud is one of few that fully disengage with the least amount of travel. I have one in my 68, couldn't be happier with it.

Any friction on the disk from the PP when the clutch is depressed will cause difficult shifting. That condition can't be duplicated on the bench.

 

Check this vid

 

The lobe on the bearing is good to prevent the inner sleeve from rotating in the fork. If I remember correctly, it gets installed with the lobe away from the inside of the fork.

Your clutch is not releasing.fully. Hard to get into reverse is a classic symptom.

Bearing may have slipped out of the proper position in the fork while you were bench pressing the tranny into place.

Might be a bad pressure plate. You can assemble the clutch, flywheel and disk together on the bench to check for diaphram warpage that may not show when the assembly is all loose apart in pieces. Swapped a clutch 3 times in one day before I caught that.

 

My first thought was improper throwout bearing installation. Its not murphy proof. But if that tranny front bearing retainer which the thowout bearing rides on is prone to wear, and if its bad enough, you wont have smooth clutch actuation. So, let us know how it all turns out. And for the record I have nothing against any clutch manufacturer. Ive been running Ram clutches of late, a pretty solid clutch for a reasonable price. Currently have the 10.5 dual disc clutch utilizing the Ram hyd throwout bearing and a wilwood remote reservoir brake actuator. Thats what engages my TKO 600. Works pfg.

 

Did/should you re-adjust your pedal travel as a result of surfacing the flywheel?
I had an issue with the rubber boot binding the clutch fork so you might want to temp remove it
I looked around my throwout bearing using a $25 Borescope that attaches to the andriod phone, this worked out great for what I needed to see on things like the pivot ball to clutch fork seating
One more thing, you might be hitting on your inspection cover so remove that while testing

 

got pics of the fork, tb, and input shaft cover?

 

thanks guys for all the suggestions and thoughts. as you can tell i dont do this for a living so i am learning as i go.i have done alot of work to this car with great information and help from this forum and its members.i do not have the motor back in yet still waiting for the new bearing snout. i went over and talked to my motor guy and the first words out of his mouth was the inspection cover is hitting the flywheel also as aquaroscoe suggested. i hope its that simple .seemed like alot of vibration if it was coming from that flimsy little cover. the cover was cut by the p.o. so i it could be removed without taking out the starter. it was beat up some near the half round but i could not tell if it was fresh or not.as far as the clutch components the fork is a new gm fork exactly the same as the old old one and tb was new.before i pulled the motor i unbolted the trainy while on the lift and slid it back as far as i could to look for a problem in there and i am guessing the roughness inside the bearing was caused by the spline rubbing on it when i pulled the trainy back..my motor guy kind of ruled out the tb because it is not turning when the clutch is out if it has some freeplay. i had what i thought was about 2" of freeplay and i was out of linkage to make the freeplay any less.the clutch was engaging very close to the floorboard when i left up on the clutch pedal. maybe not enough disengagement and causing the reverse issue?.i am going to modify the lower clutch arm making it about a half inch longer. will post my findings after my next road test hopefully this weekend..

 

Is there any chance that you bent the clutch disc when installing the transmission? Did you have any difficulty getting the transmission flush with the bell housing and did not force it in with bolts? Is your shift linkage adjusted correctly? A suggestion to use the new input shaft When reinstalling the clutch.

 

There is a difference in the height of the pressure plates and when using the stock pivot the clutch fork is positioned incorrectly. With the clutch linkage disconnected, work the clutch fork so that it contacts the pressure plate, the position of the fork as it comes out of the bellhousing should be angled toward the motor. If the fork is angled toward the trans, you are past center with the bearing and losing all mechanical advantage. To correct, either use a slightly longer throw-out bearing or get a adjustable ball pivot stud.

[QUOTE= bikesnbroadheads; noticed a noise like a bearing turning that i did not have before..[QUOTE]

The "bearing turning" noise is actually the throw-out bearing riding on the fingers of the pressure plate.

About the vibration: was the new pressure plate and disc balanced as an assembly to the flywheel?

 

got the 71 back together and took it out for a road test without the inspection plate bolted on. no noise and no vibration. the extra 1/2" i added to the lower clutch rod left me put about an 1" -1 1/4" freeplay and i now have reverse again. clutch is nice and smooth i took a pair of tin snips and cut some metal off the radius of the inspection cover and put it back on and it seems to be good.i am getting pretty good at pulling the motor and trainy out of this car! my next issue is to figure why the car runs very rich on a cold start. starts easy but smokes and runs rough until its warm. runs good when warmed up.i think i will send lars an email and get his thoughts. thanks again for all the replies. this forum is the best!