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I was investigating a noise when I press the clutch and realized that the z-bar support on the engine side does not seem to be stock. Its very long and flexes somewhat when the clutch is pressed fully. The clutch is some what stiff compared to my other 4sp cars, however there are no issues shifting gears at all. Does anyone recognize this bracket and does anyone have input on its continued use one way or the other. Thanks so much!
That is not stock at all. You must have a replacement engine that has no provision for the stock ball stud that threads into the block. This is an aftermarket version that usually work pretty well. At second look this looks like someone fabbed this up. If the clutch is an aftermarket and has much more pedal effort this might not be working well and flexing.
Thanks for the response... yeah, its a 454 crate motor, the prior owner ran the stock 427 dry and blew it up... yikes! Agree its not stock and some one fabbed it up.... its really beefy looking, but when I noticed the flexing I was concerned. If the ball stud threaded hole is missing then I'm limited in how I get this fabbed up part replaced.... are there any other professional parts out there? The bell housing is also not stock... looks like a lakewood or other.
You are also missing the two anti-rattle springs on the clutch rod going to the fork and the Z-bar, thats what the two holes in the center of the rod are for.
On the plus side, it appears, instead of cotter pins, you have the correct preloaded spring clips holding the pushrod. Don't lose them. Hard to tell what sort of wear, if any, there is at the z-bar. I posted recently about another spring that goes from the other side of the z-bar to the firewall. You might look for that. My guess is it keeps the throwout bearing from riding on the clutch fingers.
It's probably worthwhile to keep this from flexing, although you haven't mentioned which way it is flexing. As to continued use, you likely have no choice. You might maybe want to take it off and preload it a little by bending it in.
Thanks for the response.... yes, I need to get the 2 anti rattle springs installed at some point. The clutch return spring is in place from the top of the z-bar to the firewall that's associated with the steering column plate, so no issue with the throw out bearing. I prefer the coil spring type clips to a cotter pin, I use them on any moving application such as the shift levers on the 4sp and the clutch.
I have a feeling you are right and I may have no choice but to keep this bracket unless the threaded hole is hiding under the bracket. I also will try to see if I can do as you suggest to diminish the flex. As you press the clutch pedal that bracket flexs in toward the block maybe 1/8".... was concern over time it would crack, but its pretty thick... so who knows.
I was investigating a noise when I press the clutch and realized that the z-bar support on the engine side does not seem to be stock. Its very long and flexes somewhat when the clutch is pressed fully. The clutch is some what stiff compared to my other 4sp cars, however there are no issues shifting gears at all. Does anyone recognize this bracket and does anyone have input on its continued use one way or the other. Thanks so much!
if your handy with a welder you could add some flat bar along the top at 90 degrees onto the double bend .
Did an engine swap for a friend a few years back, went to put in the z bar and boy did I get a surprise.
Luckily Jegs sells the bracket for this, it bolts to the bell housing bolts. Next issue was it positions the stud out
away from the block some. As a result the z-bar had to be cut and welded back together a lil bit shorter.
Bazza77,
I am pretty handy with a welder, have 2 of them :-) If I cant find a professional solution I may go that route.
John65,
The bracket in the car is actually bolted to the bell housing with 3 rather large dia bolts now... its very sturdy, the pressure plate must be a horrendously stiff one to require the amount of pressure I have to apply to the clutch.... that bracket has held up for several years now. If you can point me to the Jegs bracket I'd appreciate that. I'll see if I can find it.
I don't see an actual complaint here, just an observation on your part. You mentioned "a noise". What and where?
I really doubt 1/8" is consequential and worth all the effort. Especially because it's temporary movement that only occurs when you shift. The whole z-bar setup setup is built to accommodate the motor torque. Unless you have solid mounts there's going to be considerable compression in the motor mounts which will move the ball back and forth and up and down.. Rev the motor and see what happens. Myself I would leave things alone, but it's up to you!
I have an original z-bar downstairs and if you need a measurement to see if yours was mod'd, let me know.
Ignatz,
Agreed. I was looking for feedback on my bracket and should I continue its use or run for the hills... ha-ha... from what I heard its ok. I'll stop worrying about it :-) I'm fine with after mark parts as long as they perform as well or better than stock...I get leary of home made stuff I did not make ;-) The car was set up for drag racing years before by a prior owner and I have slowly been working to pull back from that. It had solid motor mounts and it shook the heck out of the car...once I put rubber mounts in it was so much nicer. The last remaining bit of her racing days is the lakewood style bell housing and who knows what kind of pressure plate and clutch... hopefully the fly wheel is stock.
Thanks again everyone, stay safe and healthy out there.
Paul
Speaking of fabrication, does anyone notice the very poor execution of a 'torque chain/ strap'? It's actually laughable.
And its on the wrong side of the engine. Engine torque will shaken that chain. It rotates to the passenger side. Any torque strap should be on the drivers side.
And its on the wrong side of the engine. Engine torque will shaken that chain. It rotates to the passenger side. Any torque strap should be on the drivers side.
z-bar support on engine side
