Restore to NCRS?
Last summer I found the car I had always wanted A donnybrook green/ saddle LT1 convertible. Beautiful condition, with great paperwork. Already tinkering to correct minor issues.
My point to you is, i could have put 10 or 20k into the L46 to make it perfect ncrs. (Bought it for 2k in 73). It wasn't the money that stopped me. I dont know if at this point in my life I want to tie the car up for extended periods of time. I want to drive it.
Dont know what stage of assembly your car is in, or extent of original parts, but the labor is the same regardless of original, or other parts. I understand exactly where your coming from .You want it to be correct. I applaud you for your effort.
My opinion. I would continue ncrs restoration solely to make it correct, assuming you have original parts. Otherwise, take it to complition anyway you can, and replace and correct while you enjoy driving the car.
Is the $$$ difference enough to cover your costs? Not likely. People restoring Corvettes have an expensive hobby/sport. It has never been a way to make money.
Without the Top Flight it is all about the "eye", rarity and condition.





My comments below still hold but I had to reread your initial statement as I got long winded. You should still be expecting top dollar since you have a 17000 mile car, it should still have almost all of the original everything with that low of mileage and its an LT1 which is almost as rare as an L88. but our economy is what it is currently, and it will come back. Of course its a buyers market right now so obviously your not selling immediatley. My back ground in short is I wanted achrome bumper car, started shopping in the $5 to $10 K range and bought at $19K. Well above my budget but didnt have a car payment so I could do it. Your car will have a specific price range regardless of how many original bolts are left to find. The mass buyers may still desire an LT1, I would, but my last recollection is they start at $30 to $35k regardless of NCRS
origianl reponse.
At this stage of our country, I think the gloss of the big TV show auctions has worn off a bit and the car will sell for what the market will call for unless you are willing to hold out for that one buyer that wants your exact car. The advice i got from members when I first started is to make it "mine". Do to it what I want done to make me enjoy it and give me pleasure to see her. I myself bought mine to drive and have fun in but I understand the desire to get it perfect or nearly so. I like mine to have all the original designs function like the vacuum system and the fiber optics and it bugs me to no end if they dont, but I drive it for the excitement of it so I have 17" tires, upgraded suspension, a kick *** loud stereo (its a convertible), an aluminum radiator and electric fan and 69 side exhauust for the looks. It is also the original 327 block and is still a "327" but its got a big roller cam in her now, but I wanted to maintain the quadrajet carb, go figure. When I bought it, all I would have needed done for NCRS judging was the exhaust, rear spring, radio and original hood (and undo the bubba fixes) . But again I dont want to rely on what other people think my car should be, especially a 68 when so many things have changed on it during production, seemingly from week to week. I dont think theres anyone around that can remember all the changes unless they worked every inch of the line or was on the engineering team the whole time. But thats me, Back to you
For what you have said, and what I gather, for your personal desire for your car and your goal of selling it, I would get it as close to original as possible that would make it drivable WITHOUT finding the correct stamped manifold bolt for $35 dollars a piece. When I bought mine, if someone said NCRS correct, I would have said "Who?" but then wouldnt have be shopping in that price range either. There is a range of "expected price to pay" for the mass of Corvette buyers and its set on price, chrome bumper, year, engine size and originality, overall originality, body and paint. If you are going through a body off and getting it original, then the mass buyers are expecting that, but not down to the bolt. The big spenders in that group will give you the biggest profit margin for a frame off. The 2% of buyers that want NCRS may want specifcs as well because they may be investors so again that percentage of buyers drops dramatically. And investors want to buy low and sell high, so again, they are going to try and nickel and dime you. I would go for the mass buyers with a faster sell rate and sacrifice the few grand you might possibly make as trying to get a NCRS 100 point car as getting there is going to cost most of your profit.
The big thing that started recently is barn finds. Everything is a barn find and theres a toe of shows about them. THats the new gold standard. If you have pics of yours parked in a garage before you started to restore her that would be the new marketing approach. " Found in a garage upteen years ago, faithflly restored from the frame up to bring her back to her original glory. Yours for only this many clams". You can always get her judged and decide whether or not to post the points. Just be like Jason in marketing and say what they want to hear. "NCRS judged." dont give a point standard unless asked and then have the sheet if they are an NCRS guy. They may want to finish the last 15% themselves
my 2 cents
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Apr 26, 2020 at 08:51 AM.
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Last edited by jaxlt1; Apr 26, 2020 at 09:38 AM.
See link to my 68 Bloomington Gold SURVIVOR and two time NCRS Top Flight. I currently have a 72 LT-1 Top Flight car. Is you 70 Donneybrook Green?





I plan on driving the car and don't want to worry a lot about keeping it pristine but do want to make it easier for someone down the road to fully restore. I have not desire to chase points and/or trailer the car. I am in the process of semi-restoring using the judging manual and AIM as guidance.
As I work through things, I rebuild original parts when they can be, refinish, and ensure the use of proper fasteners. While rebuilding the engine, I'm trying to find date correct components like the water pump because that's more difficult to change out than the alternator or starter. Another example was the manifold water outlet; my original had a broken neck. Instead of buying an autoparts store replacement, I watched ebay for a nice correct one and only paid $20 more. Things like that are financially doable in small steps, I know it's correct, and it's there for the next restorer.




















no pics?