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79 L82 AC Refresh

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Old May 7, 2020 | 08:48 PM
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Default 79 L82 AC Refresh

Hey all, trying to undo some of the damage bubba (unfortunately, I’m bubba ) has done to my 79 L82 AC system. 2 years ago I grew tired of lugging all the AC weight around and not having functioning AC, so rather than doing things the right way and fixing it then, I pulled everything out thinking I’d never want AC. Well… I now I want AC and have a few questions about putting everything back together. I searched through several AC threads and couldn’t find what I was looking for.

1: If the compressor, evaporator, and condenser have been sitting in open air for 2 years, should I be changing any of these components pre-emptively? I can flush the evaporator and condenser, but I don’t think I can do anything about the compressor. Mechanically the compressor seemed fine when it came out, is still free to rotate, etc.

2: Do these 79 systems have a thermo switch to cycle? They are listed on all of the vendor's sites, but I don’t recall seeing one/disconnecting when taking everything out.

I was hoping to just replace the orings and accumulator before attempting to re-charge with R134a and look for leaks once it's charged with some dye.
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Old May 7, 2020 | 09:37 PM
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Did it work before you took out?
was it r12 before?
switch yes ots a thermocouple on the pipe going into evaporator..sometimes ball of goop around it. Also 24 pound pressure cutoff switch..
if r12 before need to flush out and change oil .
if everything worked before...
vacuum pump..new seals and accumulator ..have fun with that..and change screen/ oriface
get gauges..satisfying job



Last edited by interpon; May 7, 2020 at 09:43 PM.
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Old May 7, 2020 | 10:58 PM
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Awesome, thanks for all the info interpon. It was 'working' when I took everything out, as in, it would blow only slightly cold air. I'll drain the compressor, flush the lines and evap/condenser, replace the accumulator, o-rings and orifice tube and hope for the best after I charge it. I have a lt green and blue connector which leads to the pressure switch (blue) and firewall (lt green) so I guess that's my thermocouple connector, must have lost the switch when I packed everything up.
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Old May 8, 2020 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Blk79
Awesome, thanks for all the info interpon. It was 'working' when I took everything out, as in, it would blow only slightly cold air. I'll drain the compressor, flush the lines and evap/condenser, replace the accumulator, o-rings and orifice tube and hope for the best after I charge it. I have a lt green and blue connector which leads to the pressure switch (blue) and firewall (lt green) so I guess that's my thermocouple connector, must have lost the switch when I packed everything up.
so it was r12? with mineral oil? or 134 with whatever PAG oil?
consider if it was r12.... drain everything add mineral oil like a new system.. and find ebay r12 craigslist..of course after you are SURE it doesn't leak lol...

4 bucks a can 134, ~40 r12

Last edited by interpon; May 8, 2020 at 09:12 AM.
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Old May 8, 2020 | 09:40 AM
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The A/C itself could be fine but its fighting three other somewhat likely issues:
A heater core vacuum switch that refuses to close.
A blower motor that only runs on Lo & Med, no HI
Defrost / Heater / Vents plugged with leaves, pine needles, rodent nest, etc.
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Old May 8, 2020 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by interpon
so it was r12? with mineral oil? or 134 with whatever PAG oil?
consider if it was r12.... drain everything add mineral oil like a new system.. and find ebay r12 craigslist..of course after you are SURE it doesn't leak lol...

4 bucks a can 134, ~40 r12
I'm assuming it was charged with R12 as it was parked in a garage since the mid '80s and I didn't touch the charge ports before testing the AC. I suppose I could pick up a few cans on eBay rather than going 134, I understand systems converted to 134 don't cool as effectively.

The fan blows well and works on all 3 speeds, so I don't think that's the issue, but I didn't consider the vacuum heater valve as the issue. I'll probably pick one up with my next order as being in Canada the shipping usually costs more than the part being shipped.
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Old May 8, 2020 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Blk79
I'm assuming it was charged with R12 as it was parked in a garage since the mid '80s and I didn't touch the charge ports before testing the AC. I suppose I could pick up a few cans on eBay rather than going 134, I understand systems converted to 134 don't cool as effectively.

The fan blows well and works on all 3 speeds, so I don't think that's the issue, but I didn't consider the vacuum heater valve as the issue. I'll probably pick one up with my next order as being in Canada the shipping usually costs more than the part being shipped.
you can check if the shut off works..measure temp with in full cold vent only..be sure the vacuum switch is triggered...look behind glove box..cold lever should not stay to the left side but slightly away to be sure it triggers shut off..mine works great..you should not see more than 5 degrees hotter than ambient imo..




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