things just keep getting weirder on this.

the switchback bulbs DO actually work! but they're wired backwards relative to the socket?


if i plug the lights into the socket how they're designed, the parking lights illuminate amber but when i turn on the turn signal, they pulse VERY slightly, like you can barely tell they're changing brightness, not what i was expecting

If i REVERSE them, such that the little side nubs don't line up and i have to physically hold the bulb in, they turn white while the parking lights are on (as they should), and PROPERLY BLINK AMBER when the turn signal is engaged.
the side marker lights barely flash during this as well, like have to really zoom in to see them emitting light, which is weird, are they very low voltage during this or something?

So if i were to reverse the wires coming into the socket, everything would work perfectly, i think?
but i'm not keen on destructively altering the car to accommodate this SPECIFIC bulb

 

Back in reply #34, I mentioned a problem I had with my RH taillight on my 69 being different in the way it was wired to the dual filament bulbs. With incandescents it didn't matter because they lit up equally. But the LED's lit up different number of elements and the difference in intensity was noticeable.

The way I fixed this was to file off one of the nubs and insert the bulb 180 out. Since the connects protruded pretty far into the assembly they made contact 180 out. And there was enough spring pressure to keep the bulb in the socket with but one nub.

Maybe that is the deal here for you. As you say altering the car for a particular bulb is.. well.. the worst insult here is BUBBA. Your socket does look from memory to be a different design than mine. I am not interested in going out and looking for sure. Maybe I have a picture. I'll look for one.

See if what I said works for you.

 

that might work, but with one nub filed down and the other nub anchor very far up the side of the bulb (the nubs are uneven), i don't think it'll be held in?
i had to physically hold the bulb in and twist it a little in order for it to work in my case

Actually now i'm wondering if i can pop the bulb itself open, and swap the polarity of the connections to the base?
perhaps take the metal ring around the edge which is the thing holding the nubs in, and see about flipping it 180?
Or that may just mess things up
Wish there was an easy way to tell how various led bulbs were wired based on their listings, like "left nub = running light and right nub = turn signal", with that i could hunt down the exact bulb i need but....

 

Here's what I did-

I used the Speedway sequential tail light module- two modules per kit- and each module has three outputs

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...Kit,54987.html

Solves all the issues-comes with a 1157 bulb adapter- you can plug it in to the factory harness- make the rest w/ new parts and not have to cut up the factory harness.

Does requires to run one wire run for the brake lights-
For the front- I added a cob LED in the side parking lights.

So now- instead of flashers- I just used a jumper wire bypassing them (hazard too)...my car lighting is not for the faint of heart though....


Hazard-

Front turn/parking-


Side mirrors-


Side marker /turn


Reverse lights-

 

You can use the blinker Genie on the side marker light only-

Connect the Genie at the grille for the turn and parking signal (1157 light)l- then just run the output of the genie to the side light -problem solved,

The Genie 2 is the one needed for cars-

https://www.customled.com/products/blinker-genie-2

 

did some more digging, looks like when looking at the led bulb from below at the bayonets, with the "higher" of the two side locking nubs on the RIGHT.....the "top" bayonet is for the white parking lights, and the "bottom" bayonet is for the turn signal lights.

in this pic, the bayonet closer to me, and the top of the two contacts in the socket, is for the parking lights



also for the socket itself, the BLUE wire is for the constant parking light power, and the BROWN wire is the pulsing 12v for the turn signals, i would have figured it'd be the opposite but oh well

the ground ring can't be reversed, at least not easily

and i checked the voltage on the side marker lights when the front turn signal is flashing, it's only getting 8.2v on pulse which seems....awful low. Not sure it's supposed to be like that? Could bet yet another problem somewhere in the system. I can't really find any 194 type led bulbs which operational voltages which go that low

If i can get in touch with headlight revolution and they agree to exchange the bulbs i got for the 1157 variant of the same bulbs
https://headlightrevolution.com/gtr-...157-led-bulbs/
i'll see if they can check which bayonet does what.
if it's still backwards relative to the vette, i may do some bubba in reversing the wires, but use waterproof solder shrink connectors and put tough labels on the wires indicating polarity was switched for the sake of the led bulb. In the end, the wire colors will still mean what the are supposed to, and for old school dual filament bulbs, which contact does which doesn't ACTUALLY matter
OR....i can get a set of sockets and plugs, and just modify those while keeping the originals in storage, making the entire thing easily reversible
https://www.corvettecentral.com/c3-6...f%3fcount%3d27

 

also measured voltage at the side marker socket while it was blinking normally, without the parking light on, it was showing 10.7v as the max spike which is pretty low as well.
are the side marker lights supposed to be this low voltage?
i'm not even sure a T10 bulb exists which can do 8v to 11v

 

as a follow up, i went through with swapping the wires on the parking light sockets and now everything works perfectly (with the exception of the side marker lights not blinking when the parking lights are on)

the parking lights are now white instead of amber which i think looks pretty cool
and it has this neat effect where when it transitions from turn signal to parking light, there's a short pause