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Hi all I am trying to fit a pair of new headers on my 74 and found out that on the right side of the car is the firewall getting separated from the floor
Seems like the old headers has who had a S shaped tube for connecting the sidepipes made to much heat so the glass has separated.
Anyone have any idea what to do? I dont wanna lift the body of the frame but it needs to be fixed in some way.
When I had a passenger they always complain it was very hot on the passenger side of the car.
You can see the gap between the the floor and the firewall in the pic.
There are a number of ways to fix that. Hopefully, the flange is only separated. In that case, I would clean the surfaces and surrounding area with lacquer thinner. Some how get a course grinder in there, like 50 or 80 grit sanding disk. Remove any loose stuff but be gentle, even a Dremel tool could be used to clean it up and get some fresh material exposed. Often times I will put a screw at the beginning and end of the crack where the seam isn't pulled apart. I do this because as you clean and grind you can make it crack further. I fix the screw holes later. You can glue it with original formula that can be ordered from catalog companies. OR, you can go down to your local auto body paint store and get a recommendation on a two part panel adhesive. Get something semi-flexible. Buy a couple tubes and go to work. Experiment with putting a board on the seam from the inside and some weight. You are best to peal back the carpet and clean and possibly grind from that side too.
Anyways, get it ready to fit back together. If you can get everything well approximated without screws and maybe just use a jack with a long board, that is great. Otherwise plan on using screws to approximate the seam after you get the glue in there. Follow the instructions on glue. I remember using Lord Fusor and having great results.
There are a number of ways to fix that. Hopefully, the flange is only separated. In that case, I would clean the surfaces and surrounding area with lacquer thinner. Some how get a course grinder in there, like 50 or 80 grit sanding disk. Remove any loose stuff but be gentle, even a Dremel tool could be used to clean it up and get some fresh material exposed. Often times I will put a screw at the beginning and end of the crack where the seam isn't pulled apart. I do this because as you clean and grind you can make it crack further. I fix the screw holes later. You can glue it with original formula that can be ordered from catalog companies. OR, you can go down to your local auto body paint store and get a recommendation on a two part panel adhesive. Get something semi-flexible. Buy a couple tubes and go to work. Experiment with putting a board on the seam from the inside and some weight. You are best to peal back the carpet and clean and possibly grind from that side too.
Anyways, get it ready to fit back together. If you can get everything well approximated without screws and maybe just use a jack with a long board, that is great. Otherwise plan on using screws to approximate the seam after you get the glue in there. Follow the instructions on glue. I remember using Lord Fusor and having great results.
Good luck!
Thanks
I am thinking in same direction using screws and metalpiece but also need a jack to push the parts in position before screwing and glueing. The problem is the floor has sinked down 1/2 inch and also the firewall has to be pushed backwards in some way. Seems the header have generate a lot of heat to make this happen and to bad I didnt saw it earlier. I never worked with that kind of glue before so do you maybe know the time for it to harden? I think to get the parts together will take me at least 1-2 hours. I will try the local store to see if they have some 2 component glue that can stand the stress from holding the parts together. How about put a layer of fibreglass to make it stand more stress?
Last edited by Taarzaahn; Jul 2, 2020 at 08:39 PM.
if you can't get the overlap to adhere, just tab a layer of glass on either side of the crack.
either that or pull the body off. pull the nose and firewall off...
Last edited by derekderek; Jul 3, 2020 at 05:15 PM.
if you can't get the overlap to adhere, just tab a layer of glass on either side of the crack.
either that or pull the body off. pull the nose and firewall off...
Haha sorry I wish I had that knowledge and even more important space for lifting the body but sorry I dont have that............
By the way since the thing happen due to hot headers is it possible to heat up glassfibre enough to mold it a little?
Last edited by Taarzaahn; Jul 4, 2020 at 07:45 PM.
Another thought,,, how positive are you that it was high heat that created this condition? You only spoke of it on passenger side, didn't both sides have a " S " pipe ? I saw this condition after a front end impact, and the occupants feet pushed the floor apart,, I would be looking at all areas of body and frame for indicators as to the cause,, IMHO
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Another thought,,, how positive are you that it was high heat that created this condition? You only spoke of it on passenger side, didn't both sides have a " S " pipe ? I saw this condition after a front end impact, and the occupants feet pushed the floor apart,, I would be looking at all areas of body and frame for indicators as to the cause,, IMHO
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Hi I see what you mean but there are no trace of any kind of impact on right side of the body but on the left side is a repair just behind the airvent from engine but according to the papers it was a damage from driving in a garagedoor.
The heatshield is missing on the right side that is why I suspect it was the heat make the parts loose from each other and it was getting really warm just after a few miles driving compare to drivers side wich never get warm.
But you got a point and it is not impossible something has happen on the right side but I cant see any damage or repairs. It was sold to UK in the mid 80s and stayed there until I bought it 2017 so I dont think the years in UK been so nice for this car. And service probably just been done if necessary. The years in US seems fully documented from the previous (first) owner.
Last edited by Taarzaahn; Jul 6, 2020 at 11:10 AM.