stereo wiring question
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 963
Likes: 57
From: Vancouver, BC
stereo wiring question
hey guys
I recently installed an alpine stereo with an external amp and 4 speakers on my 68. I connected the constant and ground to the yellow top and the amp turn on to the 4 channel amp. I connected the switched wire to the empty ignition spot on the fuse box. now I attempted to start the car a few weeks later and the battery was dead. before I start troubleshooting, I wanted to know if I should be using the ignition source on the fuse box or should it have been connected to the ACC and is that the reason for the drain?
I recently installed an alpine stereo with an external amp and 4 speakers on my 68. I connected the constant and ground to the yellow top and the amp turn on to the 4 channel amp. I connected the switched wire to the empty ignition spot on the fuse box. now I attempted to start the car a few weeks later and the battery was dead. before I start troubleshooting, I wanted to know if I should be using the ignition source on the fuse box or should it have been connected to the ACC and is that the reason for the drain?
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2001
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hey guys
I recently installed an alpine stereo with an external amp and 4 speakers on my 68. I connected the constant and ground to the yellow top and the amp turn on to the 4 channel amp. I connected the switched wire to the empty ignition spot on the fuse box. now I attempted to start the car a few weeks later and the battery was dead. before I start troubleshooting, I wanted to know if I should be using the ignition source on the fuse box or should it have been connected to the ACC and is that the reason for the drain?
I recently installed an alpine stereo with an external amp and 4 speakers on my 68. I connected the constant and ground to the yellow top and the amp turn on to the 4 channel amp. I connected the switched wire to the empty ignition spot on the fuse box. now I attempted to start the car a few weeks later and the battery was dead. before I start troubleshooting, I wanted to know if I should be using the ignition source on the fuse box or should it have been connected to the ACC and is that the reason for the drain?
The constant on is for memory only and should not draw enough to kill a battery.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 963
Likes: 57
From: Vancouver, BC
I connected the faceplate and the deck did not power on until I switched the key to ignition. So I don’t think it’s the deck causing the drain. gonna check the amp now and see if it stays powered on without the key.
i checked the amp and it only powers on with the deck. If I toggle the power from the deck itself the amp switches on and off accordingly.
im wondering if maybe I just forgot to hit the kill switch before I parked it and something else drained it.
i checked the amp and it only powers on with the deck. If I toggle the power from the deck itself the amp switches on and off accordingly.
im wondering if maybe I just forgot to hit the kill switch before I parked it and something else drained it.
Last edited by titanle; Jul 4, 2020 at 10:16 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2003
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From: Fernandina Beach FL
2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
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The past 20+ years the constant powers EVERYTHING- the ignition is just used to turn on the radio-and draws no power.
It lessens the chance of noise entering from two power sources- as the ignition wire is usually noisy. You'll notice the radio does not even have a fuse on the red ignition wire- yet a large (10-15A) on the yellow constant battery source.
As far as wiping out the battery-
It is possible to be the constant source of the radio- you did say a couple weeks?
An aftermarket radio will pull in the neighborhood of 50milliamps while off- HOWEVER I have seen several that will pull a much as 100 milliamps- add in your OEM clock pulling 30-40milliamps and yes you can wipe the battery out with just that in several weeks
I'd measure the current draw at the radio when it it off.
Richard
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 963
Likes: 57
From: Vancouver, BC
Use to be that way-
The past 20+ years the constant powers EVERYTHING- the ignition is just used to turn on the radio-and draws no power.
It lessens the chance of noise entering from two power sources- as the ignition wire is usually noisy. You'll notice the radio does not even have a fuse on the red ignition wire- yet a large (10-15A) on the yellow constant battery source.
As far as wiping out the battery-
It is possible to be the constant source of the radio- you did say a couple weeks?
An aftermarket radio will pull in the neighborhood of 50milliamps while off- HOWEVER I have seen several that will pull a much as 100 milliamps- add in your OEM clock pulling 30-40milliamps and yes you can wipe the battery out with just that in several weeks
I'd measure the current draw at the radio when it it off.
Richard
The past 20+ years the constant powers EVERYTHING- the ignition is just used to turn on the radio-and draws no power.
It lessens the chance of noise entering from two power sources- as the ignition wire is usually noisy. You'll notice the radio does not even have a fuse on the red ignition wire- yet a large (10-15A) on the yellow constant battery source.
As far as wiping out the battery-
It is possible to be the constant source of the radio- you did say a couple weeks?
An aftermarket radio will pull in the neighborhood of 50milliamps while off- HOWEVER I have seen several that will pull a much as 100 milliamps- add in your OEM clock pulling 30-40milliamps and yes you can wipe the battery out with just that in several weeks
I'd measure the current draw at the radio when it it off.
Richard
the reason I’m saying it’s due to the stereo is because prior to this I had the car parked for the winter for several months and when I went to start it, it started up on the second attempt. But the battery still had power since the electrical fans turned on when I switched the key to ignition.
this time around when I switched the key nothing happened so the battery was dead.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2003
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From: Fernandina Beach FL
2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
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yes after I installed the stereo I left the car for roughly a month or so but I had engaged the kill switch. I’m guessing that doesn’t matter since there is a constant wire connected directly to the positive side of the battery. My clock doesn’t work so it’s only the stereo that would be getting power despite the kill switch? I put an inline fuse on the constant and on the switched wire.
the reason I’m saying it’s due to the stereo is because prior to this I had the car parked for the winter for several months and when I went to start it, it started up on the second attempt. But the battery still had power since the electrical fans turned on when I switched the key to ignition.
this time around when I switched the key nothing happened so the battery was dead.
the reason I’m saying it’s due to the stereo is because prior to this I had the car parked for the winter for several months and when I went to start it, it started up on the second attempt. But the battery still had power since the electrical fans turned on when I switched the key to ignition.
this time around when I switched the key nothing happened so the battery was dead.
If you have a positive kill switch and the radio's constant source( yellow wire) is hooked to the battery BEFORE the kill switch- Yes that would wipe the battery out easily in a month.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 963
Likes: 57
From: Vancouver, BC
this is the connection. Positive for amp and constant for deck connected to positive terminal and ground for amp and deck on the negative. The kill switch is in the centre compartment. Given this setup, and the constant is before the kill switch, that’s most likely the reason for the dead battery?
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Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2003
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From: Fernandina Beach FL
2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
2020 C3 of the Year Winner - Modified
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 963
Likes: 57
From: Vancouver, BC
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 8,878
Likes: 3,556
From: Fernandina Beach FL
2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
2020 C3 of the Year Winner - Modified
I installed a AFM ( active fuel management) module on my truck to keep from screwing up the lifters- plugs right in the OBDII port.
Don't drive it everyday- went to beach - and the battery was wiped out. Yep- they told me if I didn't drive everyday- I should unplug it- WTF?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 963
Likes: 57
From: Vancouver, BC
HAHA- you are welcome-my stereo is a set of sidepipes!!!
I installed a AFM ( active fuel management) module on my truck to keep from screwing up the lifters- plugs right in the OBDII port.
Don't drive it everyday- went to beach - and the battery was wiped out. Yep- they told me if I didn't drive everyday- I should unplug it- WTF?
I installed a AFM ( active fuel management) module on my truck to keep from screwing up the lifters- plugs right in the OBDII port.
Don't drive it everyday- went to beach - and the battery was wiped out. Yep- they told me if I didn't drive everyday- I should unplug it- WTF?
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,572
Likes: 486
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
Electrical Engineer here....I am not sure what that module that you are calling a kill switch is? Can't seem to find it searching for Pico waterproof 200A switch. It seems to be a current interrupting device of some kind...a 200A circuit breaker with a reset button perhaps. If that is the case moving the amp connections would not make a difference. Do you have a model number or a link for this device to see what it is?
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 8,878
Likes: 3,556
From: Fernandina Beach FL
2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
2020 C3 of the Year Winner - Modified
Electrical Engineer here....I am not sure what that module that you are calling a kill switch is? Can't seem to find it searching for Pico waterproof 200A switch. It seems to be a current interrupting device of some kind...a 200A circuit breaker with a reset button perhaps. If that is the case moving the amp connections would not make a difference. Do you have a model number or a link for this device to see what it is?
It's actually a circuit breaker w/ manually reset- but easily double as a kill switch- designed for marine applications
http://picocanada.com/view_product/3405-11
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 963
Likes: 57
From: Vancouver, BC
Yes sorry I was referring to the PICO circuit breaker as the kill switch. When it push the button it cuts the power to everything in the car. It’s only connected to one terminal on the battery.
I don’t have the model number, id have to actually look at it.
I don’t have the model number, id have to actually look at it.
Last edited by titanle; Jul 5, 2020 at 01:06 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,572
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From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
Got it. ...it also has a button to trip the circuit breaker and disconnect the battery. So putting the amp's heavy gauge +12V connection on the car side should help if that is causing the extra current draw and one remembers to trip the breaker. Constant connection for the deck would need to stay on the battery side or you would lose your presets. All makes sense now...thanks.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 750
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From: Springfield Missouri
I would install something like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SCHUMAC...IAAOSwAGxeHdFq
Last edited by ntfday; Jul 5, 2020 at 12:24 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 963
Likes: 57
From: Vancouver, BC
Yes that battery tender/trickle charger is a good idea. I still don’t get why it kills the battery though. I get it’s an old car but the stereo wiring is new along with the alternator and yellow top battery.
As a kid I used to have an old Honda Civic with two 12” subs all running off the stock battery and it never died after being parked.
As a kid I used to have an old Honda Civic with two 12” subs all running off the stock battery and it never died after being parked.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 963
Likes: 57
From: Vancouver, BC
Got it. ...it also has a button to trip the circuit breaker and disconnect the battery. So putting the amp's heavy gauge +12V connection on the car side should help if that is causing the extra current draw and one remembers to trip the breaker. Constant connection for the deck would need to stay on the battery side or you would lose your presets. All makes sense now...thanks.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,572
Likes: 486
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
The Pico circuit breaker looks like it has two connections. One directly from the battery (battery side) and then one that goes to whatever is connected to it in the car (car side) that it is protecting. In your case it looks like a heavy duty cable for your power amp.
Last edited by Redvette2; Jul 5, 2020 at 01:28 PM.