Blower Motor Will Only Run When Directly connected to the battery with jumper cables, I have Replaced the Control Panel on the Center Console, It Has Ground, And Have Bypassed Both the High speed relay and The Blower Motor Resistor, Directly Connecting it to the Brown Wire from the fuse box, it still didn't work, the brown wire shows 7 volts when i tested it with a multi meter. I don't Know What to Check Next.

 

Here's an old thread with instructions on testing the relay, and a general diagram of the whole system - maybe that will help?

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ng-on-a-c.html

When you say you bypassed the relay, did you connect the red wire directly to the purple wire? If so, that should run the blower regardless of the brown wire voltage, even with the key in the off position.

 

When you hooked up your 12v jumper did you use a separate ground and it worked?

check your ground wire, trace it back. It should be grounded at the engine block / bellhousing near the starter motor.
I have heard of some people having issues when the ground has been moved from there to the negative starter motor lug. If it's there move it back to the bellhousing.

I would think if your main power wire has 7v going to the blower it should still spin to some degree like a low speed.

 

Yes, it worked with the red wire jumpered to the purple wire, but when i jumper the brown wire directly to the purple wire nothing happens.

 

The brown wire should have 12 volts, so I'd start there. That wire also goes to the switch in the AC control, so maybe something there is pulling it down? Maybe try disconnecting the brown wire in the AC control, and see if you get 12 volts at the resistor then?

 

A low voltage reading like that almost always means a poor/dirty connection or a damaged wire held together by a thread. Thoroughly clean all connections involved using a brass brush and electrical contact cleaner. Be CERTAIN to disconnect the negative battery cable before doing this! The individual connections inside the connectors can be easily removed and replaced--you just need a very small (jewelers') slotted screwdriver. If you don't already know how look up "Packard 56 connectors" on the internet to find how to release the terminals.

 

So I tested it without disconnecting the control panel and it read 11.6 volts, so I disconnected the control panel, and it read the same voltage, so I tried to jumper it to the purple wire again and it didn't do anything.

 

I still suspect that your problem is due to corroded/loose connections and/or broken conductors in the wiring where they attach to the terminals.

 

If you have 12 volts on the brown wire, and jumpering it to the purple doesn't do anything, then I have to agree with SwampeastMike - look for a bad/corroded connection someplace. You can have 12 (or 11.6) volts on a wire, but if you have a bad connection or partially broken wire, then you won't get enough current to run the fan.

If you can run 12 volts from the battery to this same purple wire (or connect the red wire on the relay to the purple wire), and the motor spins, then your problem is someplace in the brown wire (maybe try removing the fuse and re-installing it - it's possible that the blades of the fuse or the fuse holder are corroded).

 

I cleaned most of the connections for it when i got the car, and the fuse was the first thing i checked, i just don't have any idea of what to do next.

 

Here's what I would do to narrow down the issue, based on the diagram below. Get a long jumper wire, and attach it to the purple wire at the relay (point J in the picture below). Then find the fuse for the blower motor and touch the jumper wire to that location (point A in the picture). NOTE: ATC fuses usually have a bare spot on the top of the fuse that you can poke to get a connection instead of removing the fuse.
1. If the blower runs, then continue to step 2. If it does NOT run, then you have a bad connection in the fuse block.
2. Touch the jumper wire to the brown wire on the heater control switch (point B). If the blower does NOT run, then you have a problem between the fuse block and the control switch. If it does run, then your bad wire is between the heater control switch and the relay.

NOTE1: Verify that you are really jumpering to the brown wire, not the tan wire (Sometimes colors can be confused if you're not looking at both side-by-side). My apologies if this seems obvious - just covering all bases.

NOTE2: It's hard to tell from the below diagram where the brown wire splits off, but there might be two brown wires in the same connector at the heater control switch (it's been a while since I had this apart). If there is only a single brown wire at that location, then you'll have to find the location that the wire splits.

P.S. Special thanks to Willcox Corvette for the diagram that I am referring to - hopefully they don't mind me using it.