Headlights fail
With our goofball "fall back" it's gonna be dark by 1800 for crying out loud. The evening cruise is gonna need illumination.
Will report back. Thanks again!
If I understand correctly ... there's a plug to disconnect and bypass the original leads from the switch ... appears I have to finish the relay harness with proper placement of the tab connectors. red/yellow/black ... the black is easy that's the ground. red and yellow from the relays to the low beams, and yellow only to the high beams.
I just need to translate that into what's on the car. yellow relay harness to the green factory ... and red relay harness to the brown factory?
I have yet looked, but this connection is made somewhere downrange of the switch in the panel?
... oh and closed loop connectors on red and black for the "big power"
I was actually considering a lead direct to the battery and also connect a trickle charger connector placed near the ram air inlet below the headlights for "easy" access, but no dangles!
Last edited by shaark92; Oct 22, 2020 at 10:51 AM.
thanks ... where I'm stumped is where to connect the relay harness to the headlight switch. The rest of it is fairly easy to determine. Especially with the diagram you posted above ... 3 wire/2 wire connections to headlights ... and which color is high beam/low beam.
this has the brown and green leads per the diagram above, but I can't identify this thing. a single and a double connector, though, so even if it's from the headlight switch and are the two I need to connect to the relay side of the relay harness, that will require splicing (which I can do, but clearly I need to verify the correct wires.)
do these tabs directly replace the factory plug at the firewall. I see it listed in the assembly manual, but I have yet to lay eyes on it.
here are the "big power" leads. positive and ground. can the positive be connected to the battery lead on the back of the alternator?





You will use the factory harness at the headlight(low beam) where it plugs into the low beam-
The male plug from your new relay harness will simply plug in there.
For power - either the back of the alternator- or at the horn relay terminal- then a good ground- case of the alternator will work.
MANY MANY thanks for the great advise and info. That really wasn't too big of a job. I wish, though, the harness would have had a longer lead to the headlight socket. rolling/stowing in the air scoop was a bigger challenge than in the engine compartment would have been. I even took the opportunity to run a trickle charge lead to the air scoop. Now I don't need to crack the door open anymore.
and counting. Never tripped.






