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No Parking Lights or Marker Lights

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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 04:01 PM
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Default No Parking Lights or Marker Lights

Hi all - first wanted to thank everyone who contributes to this forum as I have been a long-time lurker and found so much helpful advice over the years here. I haven't been able to find an answer in all my searching for this issue though.

I have a 1969 4spd that I have been in the process of replacing all the electrical in. My new harnesses are largely in place and I've begun the arduous task of actually hooking everything up. All new main harnesses as well as power windows and turn signal switch and headlight switch. Everything going well so far except for the parking and marker lights.

My taillights function completely - I've got running taillights, reverse lights, directional signal, hazards, and brakes all working. But the marker lights do not come on at all.
My headlights and brights work - but no parking lights/directional signal or marker lights.
Interior lights all appear to be working properly - I've got all courtesy and speedo/tach lights, cigarette lighter and heater, all responding to the switch as they should. Haven't installed the central cluster but don't expect any issues.
I have power across all fuses.

I thought maybe the issues was with the new headlight and turn signal switch or the flashers, but that seems impossible since my rear lights are functioning.
I thought maybe a bad ground but my headlights are working and I may be mistaken but I think the parking/marker lights share a ground with their respective front/rear harness.

Not sure where to look next, any help greatly appreciated!
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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 07:28 PM
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Check to see if you have power at each socket using a good ground . Then use your ohm meter to check continuity of your ground going to the socket. I imagine that all the bulbs couldn;t be burned out at the same time.
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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by righthanddrive
Check to see if you have power at each socket using a good ground . Then use your ohm meter to check continuity of your ground going to the socket. I imagine that all the bulbs couldn;t be burned out at the same time.
All bulbs were working prior to switching out the wiring
After writing first post I did check my front left parking light and do not appear to have power. Confirmed good ground using my headlight socket, and will have to check the others but I suspect a similar result
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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 10:54 PM
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Did you replace the harness that includes the Harmonica Connector at the bottom of the steering column? I will guess that your Hazard lights do not light up when you pull the lever on the column. Do your front and rear turn signals lights illuminate (Separate Filament in the bulbs)?
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 05:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Eliredandblack
Did you replace the harness that includes the Harmonica Connector at the bottom of the steering column? I will guess that your Hazard lights do not light up when you pull the lever on the column. Do your front and rear turn signals lights illuminate (Separate Filament in the bulbs)?
Yes, I did replace the turn signal switch harness including the harmonica connector. The old switch was functional for turn signal but the hazard connector on the back was completely gone and the lever was missing. I added a new switch with the lever and hazard ****. My hazards do light up, but only in the rear. Although interestingly, this is when I push the ****, not pull- I don’t know if this is how it is intended to function since I never had a working hazard assembly before.

My turn signals and hazards light up the separate filament but only in the rear. My front signals do not come on at all. The indicator lights on the dash also appear to light up appropriately with both hazards and turn signals.
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 09:42 AM
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I have an 73 so the wire colors may be different. I see that the front side markers are LT Blue (right) and Dk Blue (left), they use a common ground (shared by the head lights), and then run to the Turn Signal Switch. My best guess is that the wires on the Harmonica Connector are not in their correct position. Willcox provides a great step by step procedure that gives information on the Replacement SWITCHES, THAT use different wire colors than the OEM Switches. Also, the age of our cars tends to make the wire colors fade out and the colors shown in the schematics may look different. Let me know what you find, I Keep telling my old wife that I always wanted to be a detective. Good Luck.
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Eliredandblack
I have an 73 so the wire colors may be different. I see that the front side markers are LT Blue (right) and Dk Blue (left), they use a common ground (shared by the head lights), and then run to the Turn Signal Switch. My best guess is that the wires on the Harmonica Connector are not in their correct position. Willcox provides a great step by step procedure that gives information on the Replacement SWITCHES, THAT use different wire colors than the OEM Switches. Also, the age of our cars tends to make the wire colors fade out and the colors shown in the schematics may look different. Let me know what you find, I Keep telling my old wife that I always wanted to be a detective. Good Luck.
Ah ok interesting - maybe also notable that my new turn signal switch came with a jumper cable to attach the harmonica connector to the harness. I'll do some checking and report back. Thanks!
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 10:06 AM
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That’s weird, the ones from the Corvette Vendors have the Harmonica Connector attached. You have to remove the wires (tiny brass inserts) from the connector and then fish the Flat Cable Bundle down the inside of the steering column. Willcox says it’s an easy/fast job, do ask how long it took me.
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Eliredandblack
That’s weird, the ones from the Corvette Vendors have the Harmonica Connector attached. You have to remove the wires (tiny brass inserts) from the connector and then fish the Flat Cable Bundle down the inside of the steering column. Willcox says it’s an easy/fast job, do ask how long it took me.
Yes, mine has the harmonica attached. The kit just also came with a totally separate jumper, maybe they included as an extension? I'm not sure, but I had already threaded the harness down the column and plugged it in. I actually did use the jumper because I was struggling plugging the harmonica into the main harness, I'm going to try removing the jumper. As far as I can tell, according to the Willcox guide, the wires in my new harmonica are in the correct places.
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 10:47 AM
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Did you purchase the switch from a Corvette Restoration Vendor, or a auto parts store. I am wondering about the jumper? I am sure all the Corvette folks sell the same switch made by one company, I would guess it’s Lectric.
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Eliredandblack
Did you purchase the switch from a Corvette Restoration Vendor, or a auto parts store. I am wondering about the jumper? I am sure all the Corvette folks sell the same switch made by one company, I would guess it’s Lectric.
I bought it through Zip. Of course now I can’t find the packaging but I know it was not lectric because I remember being surprised that it was not- all of my other harnesses through Zip have been Lectric.

I just realized the plastic molding on the new harmonica is slightly different from the original, and from the jumper, which explains why I couldn’t plug the harmonica in directly. I could try removing the two harmonicas and exchanging them I suppose. See where the plastic is thicker? It prevents the connector from in steering into the harness plug





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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 11:25 AM
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Strange about the jumper, if you look at the Willcox directions, they have you cut the wires on the old connector, remove the wires from the New connector, feed down the column, then Reattach the wires to the new connector. I have a feeling that the jumper is for a different year. Willcox states that there directions are for years 1969-1982. No mention of a jumper.
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 11:27 AM
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I take lots of pictures, since my meme org lasts about 5 minutes. Here are some photos of my old connector and the new one.
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Eliredandblack
Strange about the jumper, if you look at the Willcox directions, they have you cut the wires on the old connector, remove the wires from the New connector, feed down the column, then Reattach the wires to the new connector. I have a feeling that the jumper is for a different year. Willcox states that there directions are for years 1969-1982. No mention of a jumper.
I actually managed to get the whole harmonica down the column relatively easily without removing the wires, believe it or not.

Also no mention of the jumper on the zip page. And the harmonica on the jumper fits my harness And matches my original but the harmonica on the turn signal harness does not, which makes me think the whole switch is for the wrong year.
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 11:39 AM
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OEM


Willcox states they a picture on the wall for their techs to use when doing the replacement, look at the wiring order closely
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 11:44 AM
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Looking at Paragon’s Catalog, 69-76 switches don't mention Jumper -Connector. How’re they list different switches for TILT/TEL Columns versus NO TILT Columns.
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 11:52 AM
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Looking at the Paragon Catalog the NO Tel/Tilt Switch has double rows, the switch for with Tel/Tilt is SINGLE Row. They added the jumper / connector so it will fit both types of columns. Willcox explains in detail how to remove the Tiny pins on the Connector and then reinsert them. I am impressed that you were able to get the connector down the column. Could you have damaged the wire or a pin making the feed?
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Eliredandblack
Looking at Paragon’s Catalog, 69-76 switches don't mention Jumper -Connector. How’re they list different switches for TILT/TEL Columns versus NO TILT Columns.
yep mine is supposed to be tilt/tele, and the switch mechanism itself fit nicely into the column. I'm going to try pulling the pins from the harmonica, double checking order, and transplanting to the other harmonica and see what I get.
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 12:09 PM
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Good idea, make sure that the little brass connectors are crimped to the wires and ensuring they make good contact with the wire. Obviously, the connector / converter should work. I have a feeling it’s one of the tiny brass pins/wires.
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Eliredandblack
Looking at the Paragon Catalog the NO Tel/Tilt Switch has double rows, the switch for with Tel/Tilt is SINGLE Row. They added the jumper / connector so it will fit both types of columns. Willcox explains in detail how to remove the Tiny pins on the Connector and then reinsert them. I am impressed that you were able to get the connector down the column. Could you have damaged the wire or a pin making the feed?
I suppose it’s possible but I’d be very surprised if I did any damage. It pretty much slid down with not much more than a little toggling
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