68 Door Handle
I haven’t done that on a 68, but on my 71 I took the latch out of the door (that closes on the striker on the body) and that expedited things greatly. Don’t know how your 68 push button comes into play there, but just sharing my experience.
Mike
We have a '68 and I replaced both handles last year no problem. If I remember correctly I went with my 1/4" socket set to get sufficient leeway (the 1/4" extensions and sockets allow quite a bit more room to get the right 'angles' and fit in tight places). Used a few 1/4" long extensions, and a 1/4" drive, 7/16" wobbly to get on it. It must have worked okay for me because I don't remember any swearing or long lasting scars.

Good luck, and let us know. Paul
This: https://smile.amazon.com/GearWrench-...709335&sr=8-45 plus this: https://smile.amazon.com/ARES-70197-...709556&sr=8-26 plus this: https://smile.amazon.com/Extension-B...2709622&sr=8-6 and you'll be able to get at all sorts of hard to reach stuff.
Last edited by Hopper12; Oct 14, 2020 at 05:08 PM.





I had mine out for replacement and installed the 68 only door handle gasket while it was off. The nut attaches to a stud and the stud can be backed out of the pot metal too.
I'd hit it with Kroil creep oil a couple days let it sit and go at it. Your upside down so clockwise for removal lol. When you get the nut off even if the stud comes out with the nut still attached do not worry as the stud has a recess that allows you to use an Alan key to reseat it in the handle. You will see what I'm talking about once its out. Make sure someone holds the handle exactly where you want it before you tighten it down as the paint line may show if it was not removed prior to the last paint job.
Hope it helped. I attacked it with a deep socket as the threaded stud may not let a short socket sit far enough onto the nut. Also no need to touch the door button they are completely separate
from each other unlike the 1969 and on door handle.
Marshal
Last edited by marshal135; Oct 14, 2020 at 08:25 PM.













