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It is quite repairable. This is caused by the metal rivets breaking down over time. I have seen several repairs where the rivets are removed (do not drill them out, remove from underneath) and often the fiberglass will return to flat in that area. The support can be reattached using adhesives today that won't cause that problem to happen. Do a search on the forum for this, it has been covered here in the past.
Good luck with your repair.
David
Willcox has a great tutorial that I followed. Take your time, follow the direction and you will be happy with the results. As David said, DONT drill them out. Good luck.
That's called Corvette acne. My Corvette suffers from it as well. It's caused by the aluminum rivets reacting over time to the steel header. As said above, Willcox has great video on how to fix them.
I just looked for it on the Willcox Corvette site but didn't find it. If you write to Service@Willcox.com you can ask them how to locate it, they will help you, good folks there.
David
When I did my 68 I shortened this little hole saw cutter for the job and it worked great. Its a Starret, No.A-4. Cut the teeth off, removed enough material and had them welded back on. Ground down the pilot and pulled it back so it didnt come in contact with anything while cutting. The teeth are 7/8 wide and total length is 2 1/4. After marking the headers position so it can be put back exactly in the same spot the tool simply removed enough material to remove the rivets. Obviously have a gentle touch while cutting.
Lord-Fusor adhesive in a double tube gun was used to put the header back in. Rock solid. I went Harbor Freight clamp crazy to hold it back on.
Clamping thin wooden slats on the paint side of the car over all the bumps made them vanish. I couldnt believe it, they were gone.
When I did my 68 I shortened this little hole saw cutter for the job and it worked great. Its a Starret, No.A-4. Cut the teeth off, removed enough material and had them welded back on. Ground down the pilot and pulled it back so it didnt come in contact with anything while cutting. The teeth are 7/8 wide and total length is 2 1/4. After marking the headers position so it can be put back exactly in the same spot the tool simply removed enough material to remove the rivets. Obviously have a gentle touch while cutting.
Lord-Fusor adhesive in a double tube gun was used to put the header back in. Rock solid. I went Harbor Freight clamp crazy to hold it back on.
Clamping thin wooden slats on the paint side of the car over all the bumps made them vanish. I couldnt believe it, they were gone.
That's fantastic, thanks for the info. One of these days I might have enough nerve and enough to drink, to give it a go. I think I have about 7 places, only on the right side oddly enough
That’s the one I followed. I’m very happy with the results. I didn’t use their “special” tool, I used just straight stiff putty knife after I took a small grinder to get the rivets ground away to pull off the old header parts. Once I ground them down, the old header popped off pretty easily. I also only needed one tube of the epoxy they recommend.
Last edited by Radman2112; Nov 14, 2020 at 09:29 PM.
