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I am resto modding my 78, and as we all know our cabins can get pretty hot. I had planned on installing a heat barrier inside. I came across this product and would like thoughts/opinions. My plan would be to install this under the seat pans, in the tunnel and up the foot wells on the firewall. My thinking is to prevent as much heat from entering the cabin from the outside first. I did do a search on Heatshield and only found one post from 2016. https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/hp-sticky-shield
Looks a lot like DEI Floor & tunnel Shield which I used under the drivers and passenger floor area where the pipes run.
Seems to have helped a little but it's hard to tell at this point as over the years I've added insulation under the carpet and wrapped the forward pipes there but it certainly hasn't hurt.
I still believe the largest "bang for your heat buck" is the stock style tunnel insulation and the foam horse collar
M
Thanks Mooser, I checked out DEI's site and it really looks like the same stuff, but possibly cheaper. I'll need to do some more research.
When you say "tunnel insulation" do you mean the insulation on the inside of the cabin, surrounding the tunnel? When I removed the trans, the horse collar was still there but nothing else.
Just installed in my 68 project and looking for a way to seal the front. Anything and all helps I think.. This tunnel insulation is always expensive I think for what you get. But it is convenient and easier than fabricating something maybe.
I used the DEI tunnel shield on my 69 firewall, floors and tunnel. It works great. You won’t need anything under the carpet with this stuff. I have undercar 3 inch exhaust too! Excellent product!
[QUOTE=20mercury;1602485663]Just installed in my 68 project and looking for a way to seal the front. Anything and all helps I think.. This tunnel insulation is always expensive I think for what you get. But it is convenient and easier than fabricating something maybe.
I've got the insulation under the carpet as well but I still think It's better to keep it out that try to deal with in once it's in...
M
Installed under the carpet any type of insulation becomes far more about sound reduction than heat. For that reason choose something especially good at reducing sound transmission (like "mass" backing).
Installed under the carpet any type of insulation becomes far more about sound reduction than heat. For that reason choose something especially good at reducing sound transmission (like "mass" backing).
I should have been more specific, floorboards all got B-Quiet / dynamat and factory felt, depending on where it was, tunnel got the Dynamat and shredded insulation and the firewall upper dash got the factory felt and shredded stuff. Then the DEI underneath with the factory blanket and horse collar
How do you attach the DEI Floor and Tunnel shield? Spray adhesive? Thanks
It's got an adhesive back, really sticky, make sure the floor is really really clean and dry (wipe down)
Cut and fit everything several times, it cuts fairly easy but it's an aluminum skin so it doesn't stretch or anything, you cut it and notch it to fit
Then they sell a tape to help seal cuts or edges
Mines been on for a few years now and has no signs of letting go anywhere
M
How do you attach the DEI Floor and Tunnel shield? Spray adhesive? Thanks
As Mooser said, it comes in a self-adhesive variety but you can also get it without adhesive. I got the non-adhesive version to build a transmission tunnel heat shield when my transmission was out. I was able to use a rubber mallet and some gentle tapping to form it very well to the underside of the transmission tunnel. Rather than adhesive, I used the same clips that hold the factory tunnel insulation but added a couple.
I used Lizardskin ceramic sprayed onto entire interior of car (did not use the sound insulation they sell) AND Lowes Reflectix, with factory carpet / jute on my 77.......absolutely ZERO heat inside the car. I also use the foam horsehoe collar on the bell housing. But, there is NO insulation on the outside of the firewall or floor. None. As stated above, GM stopped using tunnel insulation in 77. My right foot is six inches from the header pipe, and with the Lizardskin and Reflectix, I feel ZERO heat, even driving hours in summer in PA. This is on a NON AC car, T-tops off, windows down. I could drive the car all day in 90 degree summer weather, no heat inside. I will also add, I have no holes in the firewall, and all seals replaced. ONE caveat.......I did not have the heater system connected. I do know, but driving season is over, so next summer, I hope the heater core does not make it hot in the car. For now, I have factory vacuum operated shutoff valve (new NOS valve) installed.
I have great results with the 1/2 round mesh metal stuff that clamps on the exhaust pipes with hose clamps. It was the closest thing I could find that duplicates the factory shielding the pipes originally came with. My ‘78 needs cats to pass smog inspection. The original came with a cat shield on one side. The po installed the same shield on the driver side for dual cats/exhaust.
For the rest I went overkill. One of those two layer under-carpet kits from an online vender; dynamat on the door skins and t-tops; and generic insulation wherever else it would fit. Double bubble-wrap with foil on both sides available cheap in big rolls online. The ac evaporator outlet box got some of that on the inside, adjacent to the header. Thermotec stick-on stuff on the outside of that box, next to the header. Stuck things on with a combo of self-stick, contact cement, bead caulk, or aluminum tape. Aluminum tape on the wires around the glove box gets rid of the rattles there(except the lock itself, it needs a felt washer from a drum kit sliced thin).
Charlie
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