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Chemical Dipped/Stripped frame issue rust on cross member
Had my frame chemically dipped and powder coated. I suspect the cross member was not rinsed well enough. Two year later it's still a rolling chassis and I have noticed rust forming on the edges where metal meets and on welded spots too. I believe acid was left behind in these nooks and crannies and has reared it's ugly head on the finish. With the member installed and everything with it, removing it just isn't an option to address the issue. Any suggestions on how to attempt to prep these areas to do a detail brush touch up with some kind primer and topcoat?
Last edited by TeamTruett; Dec 1, 2020 at 02:18 PM.
Reason: spelling
Wire brush and or media blasting like garnet..(mask duct tape as to not go past groove or weld area) touch up primer topcoat by hand brush or reduced topcoat in an airbrush...done..
imo i would not dip strip unless you are dip painting..
Last edited by interpon; Nov 30, 2020 at 06:49 PM.
Wire brush and or media blasting like garnet..(mask duct tape as to not go past groove or weld area) touch up primer topcoat by hand brush or reduced topcoat in an airbrush...done..
imo i would not dip strip unless you are dip painting..
Totally disagree, doing an acid dip is the only way to remove all the rust from any component that has internal voids that can't be accessed, otherwise the rust will continue to eat away from the inside even
though it looks pretty from the outside. When ever I have replaced metal components I have always had them zinc plated to stop the rust from returning.
Totally disagree, doing an acid dip is the only way to remove all the rust from any component that has internal voids that can't be accessed, otherwise the rust will continue to eat away from the inside even
though it looks pretty from the outside. When ever I have replaced metal components I have always had them zinc plated to stop the rust from returning.
you actually do not disagree..
i am saying.. do not dip strip...because when you powder coat you do not cover the bare areas you exposed by immersion stripping.....UNLESS you do immersion paint to coat the inside that you stripped away.
so you do not want to remove the interior coating..even surface rust without re-coating.
most all frames, if not electrocoated (typically zinc phosphated not zinc coated) were dip painted. And if my memory serves me right..which is sketchy..i think even into c4’s the frames were simply dip coated with some pretty cheap paint as supplied.
anyway...acid removing rust and not coatng is worse than leaving the protective oxidized surface.
op powder coated only as far as i know..
It was also "E-coated" then powder coated. The E-coat addresses the internal surfaces.
e-coat has limited throw power...it will not penetrate deep into cavity..even though it is wetted..unlike standard dip paint..whatever it touches it covers..
yes rinsing poor too. It is very difficult to maintain an electrocoat tank without high production (with new clean substrates) to ‘paint out ‘ contaminates and needs excellent ro/ di water as final rinse including immersion rinses prior to electrocoat. Very difficult in a batch system which is why they are rare in a limited production environment
I would clean rust and then use phosphoric acid on the area in a spray bottle then rinse and the por 15 or classie saver topped with a good quality paint.
wire brush, then either brush or rattle can the area it will hold up many yrs.
Rattlecanned an entire frame/chassis once and after 3 yrs daily/rain etc still looked great.
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